1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Tokico Blues

Old Apr 23, 2011 | 11:53 AM
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Tokico Blues

Just installed Tokico blues on our 85 12a FB and can't seem to get any negative camber. How much negative camber have others gotten out of blues without camber plates.
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 12:22 PM
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Changing the strut inserts shouldn't have any effect on your camber settings; installed properly they don't change ride height nor strut geometry.

Caster and camber are both set by to one of four possible factory pre-set combinations by rotating the upper strut plate into one of the four mounting positions in the tower.
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 02:34 PM
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I realize that I don't have to re-align, I am trying to get some negative camber, but the most I can get is 0 camber
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 02:51 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Leading Rotarian
I realize that I don't have to re-align, I am trying to get some negative camber, but the most I can get is 0 camber
stock is +1. to go any further you need camber plates, or adjustable lower control arms or something
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Leading Rotarian
I realize that I don't have to re-align, I am trying to get some negative camber, but the most I can get is 0 camber
What DD was saying is that the strut/spring assembly have no bearing on the camber gain. You can put the highest buck strut insert in and it won't change a thing. To adjust it you do as he said and rotate the strut top. There is a small arrow on the top of it. Rotate that so it's pointing at the rear inside bolt hole and that will give you as much caster/camber gain as you can get without putting camber plates on.
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 04:45 PM
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I thought so. I was just asking if I was missing something.
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 10:22 AM
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You can get about -1° camber by slotting the upper strut bolt holes. That is standard practice for Spec7 race cars. Looks a little funky for a street car though.
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 03:09 PM
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Carl

Do you have any pics of those slotted bolt holes? I'm really interested in that Mod
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 03:45 PM
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Here is a picture (kind of anyway). I just converted this spec7 to pro7 with camber plates. Looking under the bolt heads, though you can see the slots from when it was a spec7. These were not done very neatly. Basically just grind the existing holes back at a 45° angle to get caster as well as camber. Do a neat job and it will look fine. I have never known anyone to have problem with the struts changing location. To get maximum camber basically make the slots long enough so that the top strut plate hits the inside edge of the strut tower. You might also have to grind down the edge of the raised center portion of the tower to clear either the nuts or the the very top of the strut. I hope that helps.

Basically for free you can get to 1-1.25° negative camber. I never had problems with tire wear on the inside edge of the tires either with this setting.

Carl
Attached Thumbnails Tokico Blues-p4260084.jpg  
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 82 rotary midget
Do you have any pics of those slotted bolt holes? I'm really interested in that Mod
Easy deal. Who's gonna look?

GD
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 08:16 PM
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One more thought. The spec7's also have lowering springs that drop the car 3/4"-1". That probably also has some effect on increasing negative camber. The total between the lowering springs and slotted towers gives 1 to 1-1/4° negative. I don't know exactly how it splits between the two mods.

Carl
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