1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Today's Hard Core Technical Question Part 1

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Old May 11, 2004 | 07:13 AM
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Today's Hard Core Technical Question Part 1

This one is tougher than #2, but any input would be apreciated.

I put an -se engine into my gsl. I kept all of the FI, and all of the -se sensors. I also put in a 2nd gen rad, and an electric fan. Here's the question:

My temp guage never gets over 1/4, but even then, the engine bay and the rad feel really hot. Is there a difference between the voltage outputs to the temp gauge for a 12a and a fuel injected 13b.

After posting your answer, please move on to question 2.
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Old May 11, 2004 | 07:53 AM
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
CarParts.com lists a different sensor for Coolant temp sensor, but the same parts for Engine temp sensor between 12A and 13B 1985 Model year cars.

What year GSL chassis did you use? That'd have a different gauge cluster, so perhaps a different sensor.

The stock gauges are wildly innacurate... Hell I don't even remember them hanving numers on them, only H and C...

I'd get an infrared thermometer and actually check the temps underhood manualy.

Good luck man.
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Old May 11, 2004 | 07:55 AM
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From: Sunny Downtown Fenwick
More info to help Pele. It's a 1985 chassis, and a 1984 engine
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Old May 11, 2004 | 09:09 AM
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we've got some smarties on here
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Old May 11, 2004 | 11:33 AM
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From: FL
Originally posted by Pele
The stock gauges are wildly innacurate...
i'm not sure i'd go quite THAT far, but they certainly are not the most accurate device on earth. at any rate, considering that fact and also all the changes you've made my advice would be this: get an aftermarket temperature gauge ... better safe than sorry. by doing so you can increase your gauge accuracy and save yourself some worry. protecting the motor is your top priority.

i mean when you said the engine bay and radiator feel really hot, what is your reference?

Last edited by diabolical1; May 11, 2004 at 11:36 AM.
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Old May 11, 2004 | 12:19 PM
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From: Sunny Downtown Fenwick
My reference is my hand on the rad, and the oil cooler, and the filter. Not the most acuurate, I know, but it seems hotter than most cars.

I am going to try and thermocouple it in the next few days to make sure.
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Old May 11, 2004 | 12:26 PM
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Get a compost bin thermometer and poke it down the dipstick hole. It can read the oil's temp right as it's coming out of the rotors.
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Old May 11, 2004 | 12:38 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
um its the same sender unit.

we've noticed that the pre 89 guages are within about a needle width of more "accurate" stuff.

h = 235f/115c
c = 65c

check your guage vs boiling water, its prolly dead on
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Old May 11, 2004 | 01:16 PM
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From: Sunny Downtown Fenwick
Awesome, thanks!
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Old May 11, 2004 | 03:43 PM
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From: FL
Originally posted by Feds
My reference is my hand on the rad, and the oil cooler, and the filter.
just remember that skin probably burns before rotor housings warp ...

sorry man, just had to ...
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Old May 11, 2004 | 05:58 PM
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From: Cleveland, Ohio, USA
Re: Today's Hard Core Technical Question Part 1

Originally posted by Feds
This one is tougher than #2, but any input would be apreciated.

I put an -se engine into my gsl. I kept all of the FI, and all of the -se sensors. I also put in a 2nd gen rad, and an electric fan. Here's the question:

My temp guage never gets over 1/4, but even then, the engine bay and the rad feel really hot. Is there a difference between the voltage outputs to the temp gauge for a 12a and a fuel injected 13b.
They're the same sender '81-up.

The "normal" is about 1/4 up on the gauge. Equates to roughly 180-190 degrees.
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