LongDuck

As mentioned previously, I replaced the 13b rotary (Wankel) engine in my -SE over the past few months and the engine I put in was an 'uncracked' Mazda core of identical year and build with fewer miles. I'm completing install of the upper intake manifold this weekend and filling it with fluids (oil, coolant) prior to firing it.

Question: given that this engine has sat on a stand for 15 years bone dry with just a little Marvel Mystery Oil injected every few years and the flywheel spun a full revolution every week or so, are there any tricks to getting oil circulated before combustion?

I'm planning to remove the plugs, remove the EFI trigger signal wire from the trailing coil to prevent gas injection, hook up my big battery and then spin it via the starter for a good 30-45 seconds total in multiple 5-10s runs so as to not overheat the starter. This will power up the oil pump and hopefully get enough oil pressure everywhere it needs to go prior to reinstalling the plugs and ECU signal wire to fire it up. I'll burp the block coolant passages when installing the upper manifold. New oil filter, new thermostat.

Anything else I need to consider? TIA,

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

no tricks really. what you proposed about turning the engine with the starter, but disabling it from actually firing in order to build up the oil pressure is what i do with every engine that i have reason to believe would need priming (fresh build or just sat in active for a long time).

i might recommend using something heavier than MMO (like motor oil) in the chambers, but that's probably just my set ways and paranoia getting the best of me - i actually use gear oil. objectively speaking, you should be alright with the MMO.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Don't use gear oil in your engine. That's nasty.

Because of the MMO for all these years, I'd say the seals are probably lubed well enough. Or put a little engine oil in the chambers if you want to. Get ready for oil fouled spark plugs... maybe.

As for the bearings, that's what I'd be focusing on. Pour some engine oil down the oil filter pedestal. Then some more. Then crank with the oil filter on. Crank a few seconds at a time like you suggested. Tap on the filter to feel and listen for when it gets oil in it.

If it never feels or sounds full, chances are the oil pump is dry. I recommend taking off the short oil cooler line from the front cover. Pour engine oil in the fitting on the front cover and turn the engine backwards by hand with a 19mm socket on the front pulley hub bolt. Let the oil pump drink the oil. Then when you are satisfied, install the oil line and crank it. This should wake up the oil pump's ability to suck oil out of the pan. Prime it, if you will.

Do all this without spark plugs installed, so it cranks faster/easier. Maybe push the clutch pedal in too so it cranks even faster, but that adds extra pressure and stress to dry thrust bearings. So do it sparingly, if at all.

LongDuck

Thanks, guys - I appreciate the insight.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i'd just pull the plugs and crank until you see oil pressure. once you get that, put plugs back in, and it should pretty much fire right up