RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I have removed my rats nest because of the Weber install, and I dont have the vacuum advance on the dizzy anymore. How should I set my timing, and how do I do it? I just want to make sure that my timing is right so that when I start "tuning" that I have a good basis to do so with. Any help or something I could read would be great. Thanks guys .

~T.J.

SilverRocket

I like RB's timing recommendations... off the top of my head, I think they are 2BTDC (L) and 19ATDC (T) at idle for a stock port motor.

I don't like Yaw's recommendations, but that's my opinion and lots of people like them (just be careful).

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Ok, and how do I get my timing to that point? Dont I need degree markings on the pully, or is this a guessing game? I can set my timing to the marks on the pullies, but other than that, Im lost.

~T.J.

SilverRocket

No, not a guessing game!!

Go to Paul Yaw's site and read how to mark the pulley - it's easy. You just take it off via those 4 little bolts, don't touch the big e-shaft bolt (never take off the eccentric shaft bolt without reading about what can happen and preventing it!). Make sure you spin the motor to TDC first, so you know how to put the pulley back on since it's not indexed.

Don't start playing around with different-than-stock settings without properly marking your pulley.

After that, the actual setting is simple - just a timing light and turning the distributor for the leading, unscrewing the 2 screws and moving the adjuster for the trailing... it's all in whatever manual you happen to have.

BTW: this is not a huge concern IMO... I would jet your carb, get your fuel pressure dialed in, etc, before you worry about this.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Ok, well thats sounds easy enough. I know all about that bearing and loosening the big bolt. Ive had that pully off before (when I made the custom dual sheeve pully), and I read all those articles first . Thanks for the help though, SilverRocket. Its greatly appreciated .

Also, does anyone else have any other suggestions for timing settings without the vacuum advance?

~T.J.

82streetracer

iTrader: (1)

I used a advancin timing light. It took me like 5 minutes to set the timing.

funny thing was, I had to read Distributor timing not engine timing.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Uh?

~T.J.

680RWHP12A

the easiest and safest way to set the timing is first set it to the stock marks on the pulley- yellow mark-leading, red mark -trailing. thats your baseline setting, next advance the dist. clockwise advancing the timing 5 more degrees than stock.that will work best!
ps. why dosnt it say Rotary Shack weber intake in your sig??

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Well, Im not sure really. I guess I didnt really think about it. I just typed the new text not really thinking, then copied and pasted the old stuff. Originally, it was a signature just messing around with photoshop, and it evolved to an actual signature. It'll say it when I make my next one .

~T.J.

SoRRoW

Even though your vacume advance is nto hooked up,it still advances some,the best way to make sure is to weld the inside,

Evil Aviator's friend is doing mine for a reasonable price.

680RWHP12A

680RWHP12A

the is non turbo, tha centrifical advance is needed for the car to run good, who told you the car would run better with the dist welded? they were wrong!!!unless its turbo, then you better weld it!!

SoRRoW

Ok so on a NON turbo rotary,it doesnt need to be welded?

Now how about on a ported engine?

The higher the RPMs the more advance the timing will be right?

So how will you adjust the carb/timing to an exact with the timing advancing?

I thought you did them to n/a engines also

680RWHP12A

no, we tried locking the dist. on na ported motors, it just slowed the car down
set the timing just as i discribed above for streetport , you will like it , trust me...try the welded dist then the stock one .....back to back then you will know what i mean!your going with the holley , right?

SoRRoW

I got a Holley,I been running it for about 2-3 yrs.

With RB intake, im bridge porting the secondaries,and large street port on the primaries.

Im looking at the plate marks,how far back towards the end can I go with out being in danger of ******* up the bridge,I see the water seal mark,if I stay before it then im ok right?

Then the bottom of the bridge should match the bottom the the main port or what?

Cause my template the bottom of the bridge doesnt length match with the main port,and if you feel on the inside of the bottom of the bridge port,you still have room

You shouldnt drink this early..

680RWHP12A

make the bridge even at the bottom, and at the top you can go further on the rotorhousing, 5mm higher, its kindof a cheating wat to keep the port open a hair longer!back towards the end???what do you mean?on the rotor hsg.? or the side hsg?

SoRRoW

Ok when you look at the plate

You can see the marks and you can see where the water seal sits on the plates.

My bridge doesnt hit the water seal mark=hopefully meaning it hasnt hit the seal,I guess if I wanted to ..I can bridge closer to the seal as I can or just stay there and make the top and bottom a little longer?

I got to notch the housing too right?

680RWHP12A

yes you have to notch the rotor hsgs. too, thats what i was referring to above , this is definatly your first bridge! where did you get the templates from? you better just follow those!

SoRRoW

RacingBeat. I still think the bottom of the bridge needs to extend to match the main port,

Yes MY first bridge job

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

So uh, how about timing for me on a stock port 12A engine?

~T.J.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Advance which? Leading? Trailing? Both? What are my other setting options?

~T.J.

PS - Bump .

inittab

What's the difference between a Weber intake and a Rotary Shack Weber intake?

inittab

bump ^

So... is it modified or something?

680RWHP12A

yes it is extensivly modified to work wonders on the rotary engine!some modifacations on every Rotaryshack carb are.....
modified accelerator pump valve(less bogging)
modified needle valve(prevents fuel starvation)
machined carb top(for increased fuel flow)
proper jets for your spesific application(xtra jets are included for fine tuning at no charge!)


****turbo prepping is available upon request****

JALVORD_2003_68

I have a 13B in my '82, would paul yaw's write up about timing work on my car?