timing question
04-11-05, 08:33 PM
#1
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timing question
can anyone give me a brief description or picture of how to set the timing in regards to the position of the rotor arm and the two marks on the crank pulley. I have a haynes manual but its not really concise enough. 
04-11-05, 09:22 PM
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put a big socket on the main pulley and turn it until the marks are lined up. when they are lined up take the distributor out and alighn the small mark on the distributor with the middle indention on the part of the distributor that moves. then place the distributor back in carefully so it doesnt turn. then use the timing light to fine tune it.
04-12-05, 04:47 AM
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haynes manual covers it fairly well. i think yellow comes first for trailing, set that with the 10mm large bolt that holds the distributor in place, turn left the dist. til the marks on the pulley align with the pin just above. then do the same for the leading, leading is adjusted by two small screws to the right, and above the bolt. has a vacuum hose coming off it. undo those screws and pull that in or out to get it to align.
g'luck
g'luck
04-12-05, 05:24 AM
#4
Originally Posted by Paradox
haynes manual covers it fairly well. i think yellow comes first for trailing, set that with the 10mm large bolt that holds the distributor in place, turn left the dist. til the marks on the pulley align with the pin just above. then do the same for the leading, leading is adjusted by two small screws to the right, and above the bolt. has a vacuum hose coming off it. undo those screws and pull that in or out to get it to align.
g'luck
g'luck
The easiest way is to line up the first notch (yellow) on the pulley with the indicator pin and the line up the two marks on the distributor shaft and gear. There is a bump on the bottom of the shaft and a circular notch on the gear. Line these up and stab it straight in (centered). Adjust as stated above.
04-12-05, 03:21 PM
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Grey-Bruce Rotorhead
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I've had great results setting the timing to 20 leading with an 8 degree split. (ie 12 trailing)
Get yourself an adjustable timing light. It makes it so much easier. I got mine at Crappy Tire for @$60.
Get yourself an adjustable timing light. It makes it so much easier. I got mine at Crappy Tire for @$60.
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04-12-05, 05:00 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by wackyracer
Buy your racing beat main pulley or mark your own per Paul Yaw. That will allow you to set it a full advance. Im not a fan of an advanced timing light. So I prefer to see the actual timing marks. Guestimate is a big risk.
What's wrong with an adjustable timing light? You just dial in your timing and adjust the dizzy and vaccum accordingly. Mine's accurate, I've double checked that..
04-12-05, 05:09 PM
#13
Bass, the same way anyone adjusts it on a stock ignition system. Search.
wacky, the masking tape method Paul Yaw wrote about is actually a stupid way to transfer timing marks to a pulley. Our goal here is accuracy, right? When masking tape stretches, as it always does, the marks will no longer be accurate by the time the tape is affixed to the pulley. I found a much simpler way to mark the pulley where I use a cloth metric measuring tape. It's so much better to use because the stock Mazda pulley is 360mm in circumference so 1mm - 1°. Of course if you have a non-stock diameter pulley, the Paul Yaw method is still useable because it can be scaled to whatever you need. Just don't use making tape.
wacky, the masking tape method Paul Yaw wrote about is actually a stupid way to transfer timing marks to a pulley. Our goal here is accuracy, right? When masking tape stretches, as it always does, the marks will no longer be accurate by the time the tape is affixed to the pulley. I found a much simpler way to mark the pulley where I use a cloth metric measuring tape. It's so much better to use because the stock Mazda pulley is 360mm in circumference so 1mm - 1°. Of course if you have a non-stock diameter pulley, the Paul Yaw method is still useable because it can be scaled to whatever you need. Just don't use making tape.
04-12-05, 05:12 PM
#16
What I probably should have said above is to hook the timing light to your trailing wire (either T1 or the coil to cap wire, hehe) and then loosen the two hold-down screws on one of the vacuum thingies and slide it in and out until the timing mark lines up to where you want it.
04-12-05, 05:12 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
Bass, the same way anyone adjusts it on a stock ignition system. Search.
wacky, the masking tape method Paul Yaw wrote about is actually a stupid way to transfer timing marks to a pulley. Our goal here is accuracy, right? When masking tape stretches, as it always does, the marks will no longer be accurate by the time the tape is affixed to the pulley. I found a much simpler way to mark the pulley where I use a cloth metric measuring tape. It's so much better to use because the stock Mazda pulley is 360mm in circumference so 1mm - 1°. Of course if you have a non-stock diameter pulley, the Paul Yaw method is still useable because it can be scaled to whatever you need. Just don't use making tape.
wacky, the masking tape method Paul Yaw wrote about is actually a stupid way to transfer timing marks to a pulley. Our goal here is accuracy, right? When masking tape stretches, as it always does, the marks will no longer be accurate by the time the tape is affixed to the pulley. I found a much simpler way to mark the pulley where I use a cloth metric measuring tape. It's so much better to use because the stock Mazda pulley is 360mm in circumference so 1mm - 1°. Of course if you have a non-stock diameter pulley, the Paul Yaw method is still useable because it can be scaled to whatever you need. Just don't use making tape.
04-12-05, 05:14 PM
#18
Originally Posted by Jeff20B
Bass, the same way anyone adjusts it on a stock ignition system. Search.
wacky, the masking tape method Paul Yaw wrote about is actually a stupid way to transfer timing marks to a pulley. Our goal here is accuracy, right? When masking tape stretches, as it always does, the marks will no longer be accurate by the time the tape is affixed to the pulley. I found a much simpler way to mark the pulley where I use a cloth metric measuring tape. It's so much better to use because the stock Mazda pulley is 360mm in circumference so 1mm - 1°. Of course if you have a non-stock diameter pulley, the Paul Yaw method is still useable because it can be scaled to whatever you need. Just don't use making tape.
wacky, the masking tape method Paul Yaw wrote about is actually a stupid way to transfer timing marks to a pulley. Our goal here is accuracy, right? When masking tape stretches, as it always does, the marks will no longer be accurate by the time the tape is affixed to the pulley. I found a much simpler way to mark the pulley where I use a cloth metric measuring tape. It's so much better to use because the stock Mazda pulley is 360mm in circumference so 1mm - 1°. Of course if you have a non-stock diameter pulley, the Paul Yaw method is still useable because it can be scaled to whatever you need. Just don't use making tape.
I personaly use the cloth tape measure - the ones in the sewing kit.
04-12-05, 06:42 PM
#20
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What if your're running your method of direct fire (Jeff20B) with the trailing wires coming from the leading posts of the dizzy and you have the vacuum lines removed from the vacuum advance (a la removed rat's nest)?
04-12-05, 07:46 PM
#22
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Forgive me, I'm slow.
So you adjust the timing of the leading in the same way (using the first mark on the pulley). That, I can understand. What's giving me trouble is: how can I adjust the trailing if the trailing wires are now hooked up to the leading posts which have the 'fixed' ie. non-adjustable, vacuum advance?
The way that I see it is even it were a stock ignition with leading going to leading and trailing going to trailing, if I removed the vacuum lines, how will moving the vacuum advance change the timing?
The reason I ask is because Rotaryrocket1 changed his ignition to the direct fire using the fc coils. We adjusted his leading no problem. But when we went to adjust his trailing, we couldn't change it. Even when we tried switching the trailing wires back to the trailing posts, we got no change in timing of the trailing with the vacuum line removed.
Boy, I'm confused...
So you adjust the timing of the leading in the same way (using the first mark on the pulley). That, I can understand. What's giving me trouble is: how can I adjust the trailing if the trailing wires are now hooked up to the leading posts which have the 'fixed' ie. non-adjustable, vacuum advance?
The way that I see it is even it were a stock ignition with leading going to leading and trailing going to trailing, if I removed the vacuum lines, how will moving the vacuum advance change the timing?
The reason I ask is because Rotaryrocket1 changed his ignition to the direct fire using the fc coils. We adjusted his leading no problem. But when we went to adjust his trailing, we couldn't change it. Even when we tried switching the trailing wires back to the trailing posts, we got no change in timing of the trailing with the vacuum line removed.
Boy, I'm confused...
Last edited by Bass; 04-12-05 at 07:50 PM.
04-13-05, 05:39 AM
#23
Oh boy. Don't feel too bad. This sort of thing screws people up surprisingly often. Using a little logic here, you'll notice that wire position on the cap appearantly has no effect on timing. How can this be? Look carefully at the inside of a cap and the rotor. You'll see that the contacts are all equally spaced.
The spark will just go to whichever contact is closest when it's ready to spark. Cap position has nothing to do with the actual timing. You need to make sure the trailing sensor (magnetic pickup) is moving when you slide the vacuum thingie in and out. Take off the rotor and the metal shield and you'll see both variable reluctance sensors and a little 4 tooth wheel on the shaft. One sensor is connected (more or less) to the distributor housing through a non adjustable vacuum diaphram; this is the leading sensor. The other sensor is connected to the slideable one; this is the trailing and will move independantly from the leading. This is how changing split timing is possible. Go take a look and mess around with it for a bit.
The spark will just go to whichever contact is closest when it's ready to spark. Cap position has nothing to do with the actual timing. You need to make sure the trailing sensor (magnetic pickup) is moving when you slide the vacuum thingie in and out. Take off the rotor and the metal shield and you'll see both variable reluctance sensors and a little 4 tooth wheel on the shaft. One sensor is connected (more or less) to the distributor housing through a non adjustable vacuum diaphram; this is the leading sensor. The other sensor is connected to the slideable one; this is the trailing and will move independantly from the leading. This is how changing split timing is possible. Go take a look and mess around with it for a bit.
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