timing advance
#1
Uchinanchu
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timing advance
I was trying to figure out how that whole timing advance thing worked and was looking under the dizzy cap and whatever you called that thingamajig(yeah real technical huh) seems like its spring loaded or something because I could move both to where its advanced and when I let go it would go back to its original position. I wasn thinking about locking them in the advanced position just to see if theres any kinda gain from it on the ole butt dyno.
Is this a good idea and if so do I advance both or just the leading.
Also, if I were to just ditch this whole idea and just hook up the vacuum lines to my dizzy would I hook it up to the manifold vacuum nipple thing right above the number 2 rotor? Right now I have the makeshift mitsu pcv(to get rid of the yogurt under the oil filler cap) line running into that and was wondering if its safe to share that line between my dizzy and the pcv valve line
Is this a good idea and if so do I advance both or just the leading.
Also, if I were to just ditch this whole idea and just hook up the vacuum lines to my dizzy would I hook it up to the manifold vacuum nipple thing right above the number 2 rotor? Right now I have the makeshift mitsu pcv(to get rid of the yogurt under the oil filler cap) line running into that and was wondering if its safe to share that line between my dizzy and the pcv valve line
#2
Always waiting for parts!
iTrader: (2)
This might help, I locked my own dizzy since im going turbo in the near future. You want to lock it if your going turbo or spending alot of time in the upper part of your tach for the most part a bridge port. You lock it on a turbo'ed engine so that the distributer will not advance your timing while under boost and detonate your engine. You have to weld the weights in place.
This is what your weights will look like when your done. Yes they have springs holding them in and advance with centrifical force.
As for your vacuum advance what carb are you using? if its a nikki just plug into the vacuum line in the base plate for the carb. The ratsnest removal tutorial will tell you exactly whitch one to plug into. If its aftermarket most people, I believe just leave them open to the atmospere. Just using the diaphrams to keep the trailing timing correct.
H0pe that helped
This is what your weights will look like when your done. Yes they have springs holding them in and advance with centrifical force.
As for your vacuum advance what carb are you using? if its a nikki just plug into the vacuum line in the base plate for the carb. The ratsnest removal tutorial will tell you exactly whitch one to plug into. If its aftermarket most people, I believe just leave them open to the atmospere. Just using the diaphrams to keep the trailing timing correct.
H0pe that helped
#4
Uchinanchu
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cool thanks, I'm gonna try hooking it back up today. I have all the emmision junk safely stored in a land fill where it belongs. I've been driving around without the vacuum advance and was wondering if I was missing out on anything.
#5
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The only thing you're missing out on is about 5mpg at cruise. If you connect the vac advances to manifold vac, you'll also be overadvanced at idle, that's why the vac to them came through a solenoid valve initially. Just FYI.
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