Ok, I have a quick question. If this in the archives point it out I couldn't find it. When doing stock timeing you want to match leading 1 with the mark closest to the drivers side right? When I tested timing on my car you couldn't see either the leading or trailing marks on the pulley when the light was flashing. Also the only thing you need to do to test timeing is just hook the timeing light up to spark? The manuel said something about a water temp. sensor, which doesn't make any sense why it would affect timeing.

 

12a Timing:
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...34&postcount=2

 

Is your car at TDC?

Do you know how to find TDC?

To find it, stand on the passenger side of the engine bay. There should be a panel that you can use a 12mm socket to remove 2 bolts near the back of the engine. These are the inspection plates. Remove the plate and shine a flashlight in. Now, what you are looking for is the flat side of the flywheel. All stock flywheels had a flat side to the back. Now, spin the motor over by hand (I used the belts for the water pump and alternator. If all else fails, I believe a 19mm socket on the main E-Shaft pulley can spin it over) until the flat side of the flywheel lines up with the flat side of the engine. The flat side is obviously the side with the intake and exhaust coming out. So when you have the flywheel flat side lined up with the flat side of the engine, you are now at TDC, or the rotary equivalent of.

 

Also, never heard of any water temp sensor switch. If your pully does not have any markings on it, then put it at TDC and mark the pully. That is now your leading, IIRC. I do not remember how many degrees trailing is.

Use my signature to find out! The link is already preloaded for anyone looking for 1st gen information.

 

Try using the leading 2 wire. If you then see the marks, your pully is off 180 degrees.
This causes no harm to your engine so don't worry about it if it's the case, just line up the timing marks and your good to go.
Line up the leading wire to the mark closest to the drivers side the the trailing to the other mark.

 

Yeah this is definitely a possibility, if anyone had ever changed teh pulley of belts on your car they may have screwed it up.

What I mean by this is that the pulley on the Eshaft is a two part assembly ((if you have A/C if not its just one)) that bolts onto the Eshaft. You can mistakenly put ut back on wrong in 90 degree increments since it has four bolts holding it on.

I had this problem with my own Seven when I tried to check the timing.

 

Ok I tested where the mark is by looking down the inspection cover, it is 180 degrees from TDC. I tried timing on L2 and I could see the mark but it was 45 degrees advanced(I think it was counterclockwise about 45 degrees) and I couldn't even turn the dizzy that much, the car wasn't warm, and I was timeing at 2500 rpms, it wont go below 1500 without dieing. I don't think the engine temp. makes a huge difference, or the rpm can advance it 45 degrees at such a low rpm, at least on piston engines I havn't seen this. Any ideas? Should I try pulling the dizzy?

 

Line up the pulley mark, pull the dizzy.
Set the dizzy by matching the marks near the gear and shove it back in.

-billy

 

I was starting to pull the dizzy and I found this it doesn't look like its normal. Should I get a new dizzy cap?

 

Get a new one anyways. And a new rotor while you are at it.

 

Yup, looks like that post took a prety good hit!

 

Yes I would get a new one. That one looks real bad.

 

Why does it look like your dis cap is missing another post?

 

Yah Ill probably pull the whole thing and make sure everything else looks ok on it. It might just be best to replace the whole thing. Thanks for the help Ill keep you guys updated.

 

Its not missing any posts, one just got whacked prety good.


If you dont know how the dizzy cap+rotor work..

The section of the cap taking care of leading ignition uses a spring loaded carbon contact placed in the center of the distributor cap to deliver electricity to the rotor, allowing just one electrical arc to take place in the distributor which delivers the hottest possible spark to the plug.

Since we have the trailing ignition to deal with as well, It has to make do without a carbon contact. They simply had the trailing ignition arc from the coil contact to the rotor then to the spark plug point in the cap simultaneously. While it may not affect the spark shown at the plug, it will be effected more by burnt contacts than the leading section.

 

what would cause that mis alighnment of cap?

 

I know the way the dis works. thank you though for the information on the leading, always wondered if they bothered with the carbon button.

I just made an error and didn't count the posts...

Too used to working on Boinger Distributors.

 

Leading is fireing write on the mark, dist. cap and rotar were replaced. I checked TDC through using a wire and finding where the apex seal was (its in the archives), and i also looked where TDC was through the inspection cover. It was the same place as the wire showed. The engine sounds horrible, worse then what it usest to sound like. Its stumbling as it revs up and as its begins to warm up it almost sounds like knocking. Any suggestions I honestly don't have a clue?

 

When you found TDC, was the pulley mark correctly aligned with the peg? If not, you may want to loosen the pulley sheave and align it properly or put a distinct paint mark on the pulley at the right spot for TDC on #1 leading.

Your distributor may have been mounted incorrectly with the wrong engagement of teeth and you'll have to loosen it, pull it out, reorient it correctly, and remount it.

Reorienting the distributor is a little tricky, and I think they changed the index marks sometime. I haven't had to do it for several years and don't remember the drill. Maybe someone else has done it recently.

 

Pully mark was on the peg. Dist. should be fine it wouldn't have timed on the mark if it wasn't aligned right. It is starting amazingly well. It never used to like to start now it starts with no effort. I'm thinking its not timing anymore. Another problem I could have is in my carb. I rebuilt it, but my floats are extremly low, which doesn't make any sense since its pooring out gray smoke. Any other suggestions?

 

Ok I think I have found a second problem. I ujusted my floats really low because I screwed up and unjusted them to high flooding the carb, originally. I think the carb is feeding in fuel in pulses, meaning whenever the carb delivers fuel it delivers it then runs out since the float bowls are so low. Then it refills and gives more fuel causing the car to stumble. It sounds weird, but you can see he fuel lvl jumping up and down in the site glass on the carb. I'll readjust the carb levels up a bit. Hopefully this is my final problem. I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks

 

Sounds reasonable.

 

Ok fixed that problem, the levels are right on the line when the car runs, but it still runs like crap. Its got a huges delay from when you press the pedal and the engine reacts. It slowly warms up and the delay gets worse and worse until it the engine dies. Any suggestions?

 

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