You guys are gods seriously aside from the top transmission bolt on an 89 toyota pickup the top nut on the master cylinder is about the toughest nut to get to i have experienced. im worried about getting to the slave cylinder next would removing the oil cooler first be a good decision? I am trying to resurrect an 84 gsl that has been sitting for id say 6 years the engine runs strong but the clutch stays fully depressed the only resistance is from the helper spring my haynes manual says to replace both at the same time easy since they are cheap but its turning into a much longer job than anticipated. the bottom nut even with penetrating oil pulled the bolt all the way out of the master so im hgonna have to find another bolt too so much for getting the car for "Free"

 

Here's how I do it.
http://intertron.com/ron/ch.html

 

awesome pic writeup very informative much more explanitory than Haynes manual. that RX4 of yours is gorgeous thanks for the info.

 

yeah to get that bolt you NEED the 1/4" drive ratchet

 

Universal joints and swivel sockets are your friend on this one.

 

i could use a joint ill look at my local tool dealers i am gonna have to use a 12 mm deep socket on the top nut inside the firewall there is a lip that wont let me get a good grip with a 12 mm wrench and i dont wanna strip the nut thanks for the info guys

 

Most important step in replacing the master cylinder - - remove the driver's seat, so you can lie flat on the floor with your legs under the hatch area. Only takes four bolts & a couple minutes to get it out, and it pays you back 10x over in ease of access.

 

I just replaced the pedal cluster(going from auto to standerd). that bolt is a little tricky but its nothing compared to some other the other ones in there!

 

yes this is my second RX7 my first was an 81 i learned the driverseat removal trick then im 6'4" if i dont remove the seat and sometimes the steering wheel i cant get any work done in there. Is that auto tranny still workin im tryin to set one up for my wife and dont wanna replace a lot of clutches and i may be able to talk another person here in town to give me his thats been sitting for a long time as well

 

its been a while, but i think i use a long extension and just sit on the ground

 

Try it without the seat one time, you'll never do the double-twist and flex to the right again.

 

You dont really need the seat out, but then again, I'm pretty flexible. Just remember extension and flexable ratchets are your friends.

 

well i got it out of there overnight with some wd40 loosened it really well the slave came out easier than i thought i will have to post pics of both soon they are so rusted out its ridiculous but the slave is still holding pressure the master is compacted/rusted all the way in. heres the pics from when i picked her up 2 weeks ago only 1 dent in drivers rear panel by marker light till yesterday when my son closed the door being propped open with a screwdriver the driverdoor retention spring is missing but i have a friend who works at a body shop says he will take care of her

 

try this link for the pics guess the embed diddnt work https://picasaweb.google.com/1093746...eat=directlink

 

Yeah that bolt is a bit of a pain. I just did mine a few weeks ago, i was pretty happy when the nut picked up on the corroded threads and pulled the stud out of the cylinder body ended up saving me a bunch of time.

 

ya it still works. kinda chucked the tq converter across the shop so it is likely junk but the trans worked good altho I manuely shifted it all the time. its free if you want it but I'm not shipping it if you are anywhere close to vermont its all yours.

 

Only one that's worse, IMO, is the inboard hold-down nut for the oil filter tower.
The rear left carb hold-down nut on an unstripped Nikki runs a tight 3rd.

 

I didnt really have an issue with the carb bolt on an unstripped one. Ive taken the slaves out before, IMO the worst bolts are the damn front caliper bolts! two cars, 4 caliper bolts, and none will come out. I actualy broke a craftsman wrench in half!

 

Yeah nothing like turning the nut 1/16th of a turn at a time lol. Very little room for either of those, but compared to working on a newer car the first gen's are a breeze.

As everyone else has said, for the clutch master cylinder a long extension and swivel socket are your friend. Removing the rod between the clutch pedal and master cyliner (its just a c-clip) gives you much easier access to the upper nut.
An air ratchet makes it even easier, just get the socket on there and pull the trigger....

 

For the carb bolts I bought those cheapo wrenches from Advanced Auto. Get the torch, vise, and a hammer. Heat and bend about 1/3 of the way from the closed end to get about 30º handle. Then use dielectric grease or any grease, little dab on the nut and it will stick to the wrench, place on the top of the stud, put finger on top of nut, then tighten.

Then agian I'm 6'5" and didn't think to pull out the drivers seat. Always leaned it back.

 

I just replaced my master a few weeks ago for the first time...I should've read up first but did not, and I spent easily HOURS trying to get the damn clip off of the pedal/rod joint to remove rod(I thought it was connected to master somehow) and after I did, it wouldn't come apart there! I then spent the next 3 or 4 hours removing the top bolt...Didn't remove the seat, and it took a week for my back and neck to recover.

 

Good thing my brother in law had a $hitload of tools in that huge Matco Box.

Aside from bench pressing your tranny up to the engine, yeah, that nut is tough.

 

we old, lazy engineer-types always find the laziest, easiest, and therefore most efficient way of doing things.

 

well the new master and slave came in today now if i can wake my lazy brother in law up to bleed the lines this chapter will be over if i can get the pressure plate off the flywheel without droppin the tranny

 

One tip for bleeding, fill the master cylinder then open the bleeder, put a small length of clear hose (fish tank tubing works) on it and into a small container of fresh fluid, then pump the pedal (slowly so it doesn't break up air bubbles and make it frothy) This pushes air out and draws fresh fluid in.
By no means will this completely bleed the system but its a good way to get things moving quicker than if you just filled the master cyl and tried bleeding normally...
good luck!