ok for like 2 weeks my car has been oveheating and could not figure it out(once i found out i felt dumb). so here is a quick check list for you to look over if you can think of anymore plz add them.dont know how to fix all the probs but at least it could get you closer

1. Water pump

2.belt for water pump

3.thirmistat
3b.after replaceing this if it still overheats then add water to your heater core might be a air buble

4. there is a little thing on your radiator that reads the temp of the water to tell u if u need water(on top in the middle) if it leaks at all then this hole cant have any hole(dont want a vacum problem with your water ALOT of stoping for water will happen) you dont have to have this im going to put a bolt here tomarrow(this is the one i had wrong with mine).

 

The low level sensor in the top of the radiator leaks most of the time because of the seal it's self. I recommend that you either order a new seal or replace the sender if it is cracked and causing the leak. I don't reommend replacing it with a bolt because you want to know at all times if the coolant becomes low.

As far as overheating goes the most common overlooked problem is a failed fan clutch. This is more likely to show up when idling or climbing a hill. The quick method of testing is to start the car and let it come up to full operating temp. Shut it off and then spin the fan blade, if there is no resistance then the clutch is bad... Also have to make sure the radiator is clean and there is no restriction in the runners. The last thing I recommend to be checked out at regular intervals is the accumulation of bugs and debri in front of the radiator or for guys that still have your A/C condenser check that for debri. If you have a lower hose that you have taken the spring out or did not have one originally can cause a overheat situation if the hose becomes soaked with oil from the engine. This would cause the hose to collapse when the t-stat opens up and creates a vacuum to allow fresh cool coolant to recirculate thru out the motor.
I always recommend changing the T-stat every 50k or when you change your water pump or service the cooling system.

 

if it overheats the first 5 minutes of driving, your antifreeze maybe frozen in places because it is diluted or you are using 100% antifreeze. This happened to me at the state of a N J winter.

FYI , 100% antifreeze freezes at 35 F

 

That doesnt make sense to me. How can something that freezes at 35 degrees be mixed with something that freezes at 32 degrees and somehow magically not freeze until -20 degrees?

 

I agree; bad info on that antifreeze... Also, you do not run 100% antifreeze but a mixture that includes water.

One thing to add here: don't try to run your rotary without a thermostat in place. This will cause issues that you won't see with a piston engine. It might be okay to do it with a piston engine, but not a rotary...

 

If you ran 100% coolant, youll need to clean out your radiator. It'll gum up inside there.

-nick-

 

my old roomate ran 100% coolant in his 84 toyota p/u 22R because he was too resistant to change to listen to me otherwise.

Radiator looked good as new inside. no rust at all. amazing. never overheated either!!!

 

My frand ran 100% water in his Bugatti Veyron's twin coolant radiators and he had the same results!!

 

It is nevertheless true. Whether you approve or not. The lowest freezing point for a mixture of coolant (which is basically ethylene glycol) is about -35F and is achieved with a 50-50 solution. It's just one of the many paradoxical wonders of chemistry.

 

Lies!!!

 

Backup of those "lies"

Freezing point of pure anti-freeze is about 8 Fahrenheit, and with a 50/50 mix can go to as far as -60 fahrenheit

Proof of this information from a .edu site
http://www.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF6/680.html
and another
http://dl.clackamas.edu/ch105-03/freezing.htm
and another non edu site
http://www.skchemicals.com/english/p.../Product02.asp
and another site
http://www.wisegeek.com/how-does-antifreeze-work.htm


Need more?

 

Speedracer has stated the 100% anti-freeze froze at 35Deg farenheit which was a incorrect statement. And yes a 50/50 solution will hold up well below freezing..

But the point is that running a 100% anti-freeze is not recommened because it does not protect from freezing properly and does not protect against overheating properly. A 50/50 solution raises the boiling point from the standard 212deg farenheit at sealevel to 242 deg farenheit at sealevel.. Everyone knows that water is the best cooler that there is however there are no anti-corrosions inhibitors or water pump lube in water. So it's essential that you run the recommended solution for your vehicle.. And the last tip to prevent against overheating is to run a bottle of redlines water wetter with your coolant/anti-freeze. It enhances the anti-freeze/coolants ability to carry away heat faster under heavy demands.

 

Spot on info as usual Doc. Thanks for the corrections and additions. Good call on the water wetter too, many do not know about it.

Nicky P, a 100% mixture of ethelyne glycol will not clog up the cooling system. If you continue to post unsubstantiated hearsay/opinions, I will continue to> . Go to bed little one.

 

Also, when replacing the thermostat, be sure to use a Mazda OEM thermostat. They have an additional bypass valve on the bottom.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/b9.htm

 

Very good information here guys, lets keep it going and get this one put into the Archives. Even the "mistaken information" that has been set straight will benefit people years from now...

Trochoid; I'm going to nominate you as the official "babysitter" of the forum!

 

Gee, thanks, what's the going rate these days. I could use the extra income.

 

maybe the sign in the store said 3 degrees celcius and it was for propylene glycol. Fact remains, that you should use 50/50 mixture.

Also antifreeze has a better coefficient of thermal transfer number than does water.

Freezing point depression, Boiling point elevation. Mixtures of liquids do that. Strange but true.