xthephilx

As the title implies, I'm going to be looking at what may or may not be a great deal on a first gen.

Thing is, I'm completely clueless about these things. Is there a checklist or anything that I should be looking at to make sure the car isn't going to nickel and dime me to death once I buy it?

Thanks,
-Phil

rotornoob

iTrader: (2)

if i remember right there is a whole post about wwhat to look for and what to repair/replace/change when you buy a new 7. also i fyou test drive it take it all the way up to redline and make sure that it doesn't try to crap out on you....unless you WANT to spend hella money and waste a lot of time.....take my advice.....but um....yeah...search....i know this has been covered like a billion kajillion times here

666cody666

CHECK REAR WHEELS WELLS!!! they might be rusted and have holes but it doesnt matter cause you can always replace them

DriftFB

there is a thread either in the archives or the FAQs with almost this exact title, just search for it.

It tells you everything that commonly goes wrong.

NoPis10

iTrader: (29)

Look for the tag that says
"MADE IN JAPAN"


LOL LOL LOL......

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

Check for ruxt behind the storage bins, under the wheel wells, enging bay, everywhere. Check to make sure there are no oil leaks. If there are let us know where you think they are coming from. If its in between the housings and iron, it may be a dowel pin leak which will need a rebuild. Make sure its running smoth, good tranny. Everything electrical is good. Hope you enjoy it. Check in the archives also.

Naegleria_Fowleri

Since you're not a noob, I will give you some advice. Make sure everything works electrically. All the switches actually do something. The rust in the rear wheel wells is a huge one. The most problematic rust spot on the car. Like someone else said, run to redline to make sure it pulls (well.. pulls as much as a 12a can assuming it is stock).

Also check for the model it is. If it is base it won't have any emblems, a GS will have that emblem, a GSL with that emblem along with disc brakes in the rear (keep in mind if it has rear discs it means that it has a limited slip), and a GSL-SE comes with better suspension, a fuel injected 13B, and bigger brakes along with all the things the GSL came with. Also the -SE has a better bolt pattern for after market wheels.

Also keep in mind that the 84-85 FB interior holds up better over time than the other interiors.

xthephilx

Normality_Glitch: Thank you. I'll remember these when I go to check the car.

twinkletoes: Alright, but how do I check for the rust behind the storage bins? Do I look from under the car, or do I have to remove the bins?

autocrash

Pull the bins... Only 4+ phillips head screws... real easy and def. worth it.

Rotererer

If you can do a compression test. That could save you a lot of money.
Better to find out if it needs a rebuild before you buy it

DavidMyers53

Nickle and dime- no way- it's $50 here $150 there, and often. Worse than any drug habit could be because you can't kick it