I did the front suspension a couple of weeks ago and noticed the Tension Rods seem to be adjusted to different lengths. I did not move the inboard nut when replacing the bushings, but they do not appear to be set the same. I have not had time to back and actually measure things.

Does anyone have a procedure for setting the tension rods correctly?

 

If you did not change the position of the inner nut, then I think you'll be okay. When installing the outer nut, most people just tighten it to the point where the cotter pin goes through easily. I understand this is where the specified measurement puts the nut anyway, and that way you don't need to get the calipers out to measure it.

 

Just a thought, My first RX-7 was run into a curb prior to me buying it. One tension rod was adjusted about 1/2" out further than the other because the tension rod mount got tweaked back. You could barely even tell it had ever happened.

The car still drove and tracked just fine, so perhaps something similar happened.
When I redid the suspension I just made sure that when the wheels were pointing straight forward that the distance between the center of the back wheels to the center of the front wheels were the same. This did it for me.

Im not sure if the stock bushings get installed the same way as poly's, but when I installed mine the instructions just said to tighten the nut until there was no gap around the outter edge of the bushings and the washer.

This makes sense because the inner part of the bushing was fatter than the outter edge, and you just have to make sure the innermost part is compressed.
There was so little left of the stock bushings, that I have no idea if they look the same.
Hope this is of some help.

 

The "Handling Gods" suggest having your wheelbase set 10mm longer on the left... that would mean the left tension rod would be a bit shorter... set that, then adjust caster as best you can.

 

??? I thought changing the length of the tension rods was a way to change the caster.

 

Yeah, some more info on that would be appreciated...

 

while changing the tension rod length does change caster, i'm not sure thats how you're supposed to do it.

 

This is raising more questions.

Next week I'll have some time to take a closer look. But, if I recall correctly the passenger side was set a shorter than the driver side. On both I was beyond the hole for the cotter pin. It is obvious from the pan under the radiator and the dent in the passenger side control arm, the PO hit some hard stuff with the underside of the car.

 

Really? Where did you hear that....Sounds quite odd to me?

 

Ask and ye shall recieve...

Well respected down under, from what I read.

 

Agreed. Notice your strut top isn't centered? You can rotate it in the mounts to adjust, though it adjusts caster and camber at the same time. "In and back" is the best you can do without new strut tops (ala ReSpeed) or slotting the mounting holes (highly ghetto).

The tension rods are primarily for wheelbase adjustments, and FWIW you can shorten BOTH rods to add as much caster as possible while maintaining your wheel clearance. This will then reguire tie rod adjustment to correct your toe. I just found the "10mm longer" note and thought I'd throw it out there for ya'll...

What this amounts to is that the "correct" order to adjust things is wheelbase, caster, camber, and finally toe.

 

interesting, i wonder

a) if that applies to a LHD car

and

b) why?

 

The difference in caster is to compensate for the crown in the road. It would be the other way around for a LHD car. Generally there should be no more than half a degree difference.

 

Interesting........

 

If that's the case (not doubting, just speculating) then that "tip" would only apply to street driven cars, and not to autocross/road course biased cars. Make sense?

 

I emailed the writer of that tip and he confirmed it was indeed to help the car drive straight on "aussie cambered roads." 10mm gives you more than 1/2 degree though. Guessing that the strut is something like 18" long, it 's 1.25 degrees.