Tension Rod Adjustment
#1
Tension Rod Adjustment
I did the front suspension a couple of weeks ago and noticed the Tension Rods seem to be adjusted to different lengths. I did not move the inboard nut when replacing the bushings, but they do not appear to be set the same. I have not had time to back and actually measure things.
Does anyone have a procedure for setting the tension rods correctly?
Does anyone have a procedure for setting the tension rods correctly?
#2
Lives on the Forum
If you did not change the position of the inner nut, then I think you'll be okay. When installing the outer nut, most people just tighten it to the point where the cotter pin goes through easily. I understand this is where the specified measurement puts the nut anyway, and that way you don't need to get the calipers out to measure it.
#3
GSSL-SE
iTrader: (1)
Just a thought, My first RX-7 was run into a curb prior to me buying it. One tension rod was adjusted about 1/2" out further than the other because the tension rod mount got tweaked back. You could barely even tell it had ever happened.
The car still drove and tracked just fine, so perhaps something similar happened.
When I redid the suspension I just made sure that when the wheels were pointing straight forward that the distance between the center of the back wheels to the center of the front wheels were the same. This did it for me.
Im not sure if the stock bushings get installed the same way as poly's, but when I installed mine the instructions just said to tighten the nut until there was no gap around the outter edge of the bushings and the washer.
This makes sense because the inner part of the bushing was fatter than the outter edge, and you just have to make sure the innermost part is compressed.
There was so little left of the stock bushings, that I have no idea if they look the same.
Hope this is of some help.
The car still drove and tracked just fine, so perhaps something similar happened.
When I redid the suspension I just made sure that when the wheels were pointing straight forward that the distance between the center of the back wheels to the center of the front wheels were the same. This did it for me.
Im not sure if the stock bushings get installed the same way as poly's, but when I installed mine the instructions just said to tighten the nut until there was no gap around the outter edge of the bushings and the washer.
This makes sense because the inner part of the bushing was fatter than the outter edge, and you just have to make sure the innermost part is compressed.
There was so little left of the stock bushings, that I have no idea if they look the same.
Hope this is of some help.
#4
The "Handling Gods" suggest having your wheelbase set 10mm longer on the left... that would mean the left tension rod would be a bit shorter... set that, then adjust caster as best you can.
#6
My wife bought me 2 RX-7s
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Originally Posted by slowautoxr
??? I thought changing the length of the tension rods was a way to change the caster.
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,826
Received 2,594 Likes
on
1,842 Posts
while changing the tension rod length does change caster, i'm not sure thats how you're supposed to do it.
Trending Topics
#8
This is raising more questions.
Next week I'll have some time to take a closer look. But, if I recall correctly the passenger side was set a shorter than the driver side. On both I was beyond the hole for the cotter pin. It is obvious from the pan under the radiator and the dent in the passenger side control arm, the PO hit some hard stuff with the underside of the car.
Next week I'll have some time to take a closer look. But, if I recall correctly the passenger side was set a shorter than the driver side. On both I was beyond the hole for the cotter pin. It is obvious from the pan under the radiator and the dent in the passenger side control arm, the PO hit some hard stuff with the underside of the car.
#9
GSSL-SE
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by gearhead-42
The "Handling Gods" suggest having your wheelbase set 10mm longer on the left... that would mean the left tension rod would be a bit shorter... set that, then adjust caster as best you can.
#10
Originally Posted by Gen1onr
Really? Where did you hear that....Sounds quite odd to me?
Well respected down under, from what I read.
#11
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
while changing the tension rod length does change caster, i'm not sure thats how you're supposed to do it.
Agreed. Notice your strut top isn't centered? You can rotate it in the mounts to adjust, though it adjusts caster and camber at the same time. "In and back" is the best you can do without new strut tops (ala ReSpeed) or slotting the mounting holes (highly ghetto).
The tension rods are primarily for wheelbase adjustments, and FWIW you can shorten BOTH rods to add as much caster as possible while maintaining your wheel clearance. This will then reguire tie rod adjustment to correct your toe. I just found the "10mm longer" note and thought I'd throw it out there for ya'll...
What this amounts to is that the "correct" order to adjust things is wheelbase, caster, camber, and finally toe.
#12
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,826
Received 2,594 Likes
on
1,842 Posts
Originally Posted by gearhead-42
a) if that applies to a LHD car
and
b) why?
#13
Hunting Skylines
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 3,431
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
The difference in caster is to compensate for the crown in the road. It would be the other way around for a LHD car. Generally there should be no more than half a degree difference.
#15
Originally Posted by REVHED
The difference in caster is to compensate for the crown in the road. It would be the other way around for a LHD car. Generally there should be no more than half a degree difference.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LongDuck
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
12
10-07-15 08:12 PM
joel(PA)
Group Buy & Product Dev. FD RX-7
8
10-04-15 06:07 PM
rotor_veux
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
3
09-28-15 09:25 PM