Tempted to buy a 1985 RX-7
08-24-06, 06:13 PM
#51
What will I drive next?
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Even better, I've got an oil pan seal for the 2nd gen. I'll give it to ya for the price of shipping. PM me, as I doubt I'll recheck this thread (I'm a 2nd gen guy, but wouldn't mind having a 1st gen if I had some extra money)
08-24-06, 06:24 PM
#52
Mellow Yellow
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Have fun with both.....I have had 4 1st gens 79,80,82, and 85....Just sold 79 to buy
my 88 convertible, but I still have my 80sa that i need to get motor in and back on the road........Get picks soon....
my 88 convertible, but I still have my 80sa that i need to get motor in and back on the road........Get picks soon....
08-24-06, 10:52 PM
#53
wow. i love all the thoughts coming from you guys.
i checked out the 1986, which turned out to be a 1987. its got 165K miles on it, but the engine has 44K. it sarted like a dream, and the inside is in much better shape than i expected. its the gxl model, and has all the trimmings. idled great, revved smooth.
i need to replace the seals around the oil pan, or the whole thing, cause it drips oil fast. but knowing its right there and not dripping from everywhere makes me feel a ton better.
the 1985 one im still gonna buy. it needs love, but ill give it a good home.
i checked out the 1986, which turned out to be a 1987. its got 165K miles on it, but the engine has 44K. it sarted like a dream, and the inside is in much better shape than i expected. its the gxl model, and has all the trimmings. idled great, revved smooth.
i need to replace the seals around the oil pan, or the whole thing, cause it drips oil fast. but knowing its right there and not dripping from everywhere makes me feel a ton better.
the 1985 one im still gonna buy. it needs love, but ill give it a good home.
08-25-06, 02:26 AM
#57
Originally Posted by zoomy942
i need to replace the seals around the oil pan, or the whole thing, cause it drips oil fast. but knowing its right there and not dripping from everywhere makes me feel a ton better.
08-25-06, 09:53 AM
#58
i am getting the 1987 taken to a mazda-tech place today. the oil leak could be the oil lines, which as they told me, is common. or it could be something a whole lot worse. we'll find out in a few hours if i am really gonna buy this thing.
08-25-06, 10:11 AM
#59
Rotary Freak
Keep in mind you'll spend a significant percentage of the purchase price of the car by having anything done at a shop.
Trochoid just told you how to fix a pan seal. and if it's the lines, you could just replace them.
Just a suggestion, but you could easily save yourself a couple hundred bucks just by looking at the problem yourself and deciding if it's something you can handle at home.
An oil leak is most likey not a serious issue. Let us know what the shop tells you and we'll give you a heads up if their trying to **** you over.
Trochoid just told you how to fix a pan seal. and if it's the lines, you could just replace them.
Just a suggestion, but you could easily save yourself a couple hundred bucks just by looking at the problem yourself and deciding if it's something you can handle at home.
An oil leak is most likey not a serious issue. Let us know what the shop tells you and we'll give you a heads up if their trying to **** you over.
08-25-06, 11:43 AM
#62
Save your $$$ and buy this for $3,500 USD (not forum dollars)
as I will be picking up another FB so this one will need to go. Its 100% complete, it has few dings but nothing major and 100% RUST FREE.
Its a 84 GS with original charcoal gray exterior with mint burgundy interior. Upgrades are as follows:
GS but I converted it to disk brakes from an 85 GSL with auto tranny.
Tokico blues all around with tokico springs.
Racing Beat front sway bar and Racing Beat adjustable rear way bar.
Dual 2.25 exhaust to 1 magnaflow.
Holley fuel pump and regulator. Oil/Water/Volt gauges.
Other upgrades include a 13-B 4port monster streetport with IDA, puck clutch, 4.44 , MSD boxes/coils and panas. But it will be sold with:
***GSL-SE 6port street port motor and dellorto. It was built by Rotary Power in Gardena, CA a few years back and has approximately 10,000 miles.
I dont have the papers as this car went from 1 cousin to another and now to me. Motor was never raced as my bros used it as
a spare or weekend car, and they have my driving habits.
***Stock 13" rims or other 13" mesh rims.
***3.90 gears with LSD.
old int pix
Its a 84 GS with original charcoal gray exterior with mint burgundy interior. Upgrades are as follows:
GS but I converted it to disk brakes from an 85 GSL with auto tranny.
Tokico blues all around with tokico springs.
Racing Beat front sway bar and Racing Beat adjustable rear way bar.
Dual 2.25 exhaust to 1 magnaflow.
Holley fuel pump and regulator. Oil/Water/Volt gauges.
Other upgrades include a 13-B 4port monster streetport with IDA, puck clutch, 4.44 , MSD boxes/coils and panas. But it will be sold with:
***GSL-SE 6port street port motor and dellorto. It was built by Rotary Power in Gardena, CA a few years back and has approximately 10,000 miles.
I dont have the papers as this car went from 1 cousin to another and now to me. Motor was never raced as my bros used it as
a spare or weekend car, and they have my driving habits.
***Stock 13" rims or other 13" mesh rims.
***3.90 gears with LSD.
old int pix
Last edited by Siraniko; 08-25-06 at 11:54 AM.
08-25-06, 04:54 PM
#63
maztech called me back. its the oil cooler lines that are leaking. does anyone lnow if this is hard to change out? they quoted me $560 to fix it. that seems like a lot, but i dont know if this is something i can do on my own. they are going to run a compression check now to make sure this engine is even worth working on.
08-25-06, 05:35 PM
#65
Rotary Freak
If it runs and starts as good as you said the engine is worth working on.Don't even pay them for a compression test. Their gonna try to sell you a new engine next.
You can get cheap oil cooler lines in the 2nd gen parts for sale section on this forum. Change them yourself and it'll cost $100 max.
Don't let a shady shop scare you out of a good deal.
You can get cheap oil cooler lines in the 2nd gen parts for sale section on this forum. Change them yourself and it'll cost $100 max.
Don't let a shady shop scare you out of a good deal.
08-25-06, 05:40 PM
#66
i cant see myself running away from this deal. its too good to pass up. and with only the cooling lines to replace, itll be a good time to learn about this engine. is it something that is incredibely difficult? lets say on a scale of 1 to 10.. 1 being an oil change, and 10 being an engine swap; where does it fall? and ive already told them to do the compression check, damnit, so too late for that one
08-25-06, 05:47 PM
#67
What a rip on the oil cooler lines. I had one made up last week for a GSL-SE at the local hydraulic shop for for a hair under 20 bucks using the oem ends. For 560, you could buy a new cooler and RB sells oem lines for a lot less. Don't forget to use new crush washers.
08-25-06, 05:56 PM
#68
add to cart
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Originally Posted by Alex-7
SA= '79-'80 first gen.
FB=81-85 first gen
FC=86-91 secong gen.
FD = '93 and up third gen.
Those are the chassis codes.
FB=81-85 first gen
FC=86-91 secong gen.
FD = '93 and up third gen.
Those are the chassis codes.
The chassis code used by Mazda for the 1980, for example, was P642, 1981; P815, 1982-85; P130, 1984-85 GSL-Se; P132. But SA or FB are easier to remember and quickly denote S1 and S2-S3 cars.
08-25-06, 06:22 PM
#70
Zoomy, let's see the pictures, you've been talking about buying these cars for about a year now, just but the damn things. As you say, "I cant see myself running away from this deal. its too good to pass up" so just buy the damn things, you can't go wrong. Then you will find out about rotaries and everything will be fine.
Ray
Ray
08-25-06, 08:32 PM
#72
Rotary Freak
Originally Posted by Manntis
At the risk of being pedantic, no those aren't the chassis codes. Those are the colloquial identification monikers we fans of the cars have given them, based on their North American VINs.
The chassis code used by Mazda for the 1980, for example, was P642, 1981; P815, 1982-85; P130, 1984-85 GSL-Se; P132. But SA or FB are easier to remember and quickly denote S1 and S2-S3 cars.
The chassis code used by Mazda for the 1980, for example, was P642, 1981; P815, 1982-85; P130, 1984-85 GSL-Se; P132. But SA or FB are easier to remember and quickly denote S1 and S2-S3 cars.
08-25-06, 09:42 PM
#74
Originally Posted by rotariesrule
you can change out the 1985 rear end with a miata rear end and you will have independent suspension in the rear. you could easily have 400 hp in the 2200 pound 1985 rx-7.
Are you implying that changing to the Miata irs will increase hp? Your post reads that way.
08-25-06, 10:25 PM
#75
it turns out a friend has some oil lines and is willing to help me. hes done it lots of time,s and can do it in an hour. i love rx-7 owners. will get pics of the before and after of the "cleaning"... she needs love
one thing, is chevron techron fuel system cleaner safe to use on a wankel?
and when i had them do the comprssion test, it came back as 93!!!!! i love it!! its a well taken care of engine!
one thing, is chevron techron fuel system cleaner safe to use on a wankel?
and when i had them do the comprssion test, it came back as 93!!!!! i love it!! its a well taken care of engine!