Tach dead, info on trailing ingniter please
03-22-08, 05:45 PM
#1
Tach dead, info on trailing ingniter please
Hello,
I just pulled my car out of storage from the winter and one of the lingering problems from last year is that my tach doesn't work at all. It doesn't move ever.
I've heard through comments in other threads that this could be the trailing igniter causing this problem. My issue is that i left my car manual down in NJ and i'm in NH with the car.. so any help you guys could give would be a big help.
I'm mostly interested in how i can go about diagnosing, removing, and purchasing a new igniter if necessary.
Also, would my tach being dead affect the way the car drives? I mean would this bad igniter cause me to loose power?
Thanks for any help you can give!
Pete
I just pulled my car out of storage from the winter and one of the lingering problems from last year is that my tach doesn't work at all. It doesn't move ever.
I've heard through comments in other threads that this could be the trailing igniter causing this problem. My issue is that i left my car manual down in NJ and i'm in NH with the car.. so any help you guys could give would be a big help.
I'm mostly interested in how i can go about diagnosing, removing, and purchasing a new igniter if necessary.
Also, would my tach being dead affect the way the car drives? I mean would this bad igniter cause me to loose power?
Thanks for any help you can give!
Pete
Last edited by swbtm; 03-22-08 at 05:47 PM. Reason: comment
03-22-08, 07:30 PM
#3
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I think this is what you're looking for...
Hi Pete,
I encountered something similar just this past week with my '85 SE. The problem that I was having was that the igniter was an intermittent problem so that the Tach would just die a couple of miles down the road which would then lead to the CPU shutting down the injectors = the engine would eventually die of fuel starvation. I could wait a few minutes and crank it again but it would eventually do it again.
I found the answer to my problem in a thread from '06. Search worked for me.
But, to answer your question, you can get a used distributor (pending salvage service) from $50 to $100 that should have 2 igniters on it (that's what I did). If you buy just a used (though checked) igniter through Mazdatrix, they want $90 each. If you buy new through them, they want $190. If you buy from the dealer (avoid like the plague), Mazda wants about $380 (yes, it also caused me to
).
The trailing igniter is the one that sits on the "inside-edge" of the distributor ( closest to the center of the engine & basically under the alternator - the leading igniter is almost facing the radiator). You only have to remove the distributor cap to get a good look at it. You'll probably need to loosen your alternator to move it up and out of the way, but there are only 2 screws holding it in place then. There is just one electrical lead to the top that you just squeeze off. Fast easy change. You just have to get the part.
Best of luck to you.
Jason
I encountered something similar just this past week with my '85 SE. The problem that I was having was that the igniter was an intermittent problem so that the Tach would just die a couple of miles down the road which would then lead to the CPU shutting down the injectors = the engine would eventually die of fuel starvation. I could wait a few minutes and crank it again but it would eventually do it again.
I found the answer to my problem in a thread from '06. Search worked for me.
But, to answer your question, you can get a used distributor (pending salvage service) from $50 to $100 that should have 2 igniters on it (that's what I did). If you buy just a used (though checked) igniter through Mazdatrix, they want $90 each. If you buy new through them, they want $190. If you buy from the dealer (avoid like the plague), Mazda wants about $380 (yes, it also caused me to
).The trailing igniter is the one that sits on the "inside-edge" of the distributor ( closest to the center of the engine & basically under the alternator - the leading igniter is almost facing the radiator). You only have to remove the distributor cap to get a good look at it. You'll probably need to loosen your alternator to move it up and out of the way, but there are only 2 screws holding it in place then. There is just one electrical lead to the top that you just squeeze off. Fast easy change. You just have to get the part.
Best of luck to you.
Jason
03-22-08, 10:10 PM
#4
Out of curiosity I looked around and found this
http://www.snyderweb.com/old_drivingforce/ignition.htm
it's a listing of prices for different ignition components... does this seem reasonable?
I'm most likely going junkyard diving soon, so i'll be on the lookout for the igniters when i'm there
Thanks for the info
http://www.snyderweb.com/old_drivingforce/ignition.htm
it's a listing of prices for different ignition components... does this seem reasonable?
I'm most likely going junkyard diving soon, so i'll be on the lookout for the igniters when i'm there
Thanks for the info
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