I've been using mobil1 10w50 cuz that's what the previous owner used but it's expensive as hell and my car uses a lot.

 

This will become a huge discussion.

It should you some oil due to your metering pump if it's hooked up.
As far as what oil should you run? there really isnt any oil you should stay away from except pennzoil and quaker state.
But, i'd say the 'BEST' oil you can buy is royal purple. hands down.

 

I know it's supposed to use oil but it's getting expensive and I know that some synthetics are bad for rotary engines so what's a good one that's not too hard on the pocket?

 

I've never used synthetic in mine, when I was looking at which oil to put in mine years ago most people on here said Castrol GTX 20w50. The synthetic oils are only bad if you still have the oil metering pump hooked up, some synthetics don't burn well and leave stuff behind in the engine. If you block off the OMP and run premix then synthetic is good.

 

Just run good old dino oil. Castrol and Valvoline are good solid choices.

 

ived used royal purple for years and been please with it, i only see expensive if car breaks down cuz i been cheap in oil. it dont make sense,, if you be cheap in oil it can cost you alot more if your car breaks down,, i been using on my lexus mobil one synthetic for 6 years and premium gas for 6 years and my car is so smooth and now doing same to my sequioa ,,but my 7 synthetic all the way

 

EDIT: ****, this is 1st gen forum. ******* RSS feeds!

 

OMFG NEWBS! The only synthetics that you shouldn't use are ones made before 1985... For christ sakes all modern synthetics burn with a lower ash count than dino oil. no reason to pay any attentnion to this myth. RB has seen multipule time dynos with a 5% increase in power by switching to quality synthetics.
Nothing is wrong with synthetic oil anymore, it now burns cleaner than dino oil!
this is an old old chart look at how much lower the ash content is with synthetics. modern oils are even better...
http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts.html
old dirty amsoil burns twice as clean than other dino oils on the chart.

 

Im not lookin for the cheapest no name oil I can find I'm just lookin for good for a daily driver that won't break the bank. I don't need high performance racing oil. Also what's the best weight to get. I'm running 20w50 right now.

 

I have been looking for a straight answer, with facts to support it, and NO ONE have been able to bring it up. I have always put Castrol 20-50 in 7s (3 of them since 1993) and I can't say nothing bad about mineral oil, now, I put Amsoil in 04 Pathfinder and I love it. I looked to put it in 89 TII engine a year ago after break in, the Amsoil dealer he promised and swear that it has no side effect on the engine.
As Hyper4mance2k said, synthetic oil i.e. Amsoil, burn CLEANER than mineral oil, I was told by my engine builder that the reason he stays away from synthetic its b/c it swell the oil rings and adventually creates premature failure. So personally, just to be safe, I went with Castrol 20-50.
By the way, Atkins sells o-rings for synthetic friendly.

Just my two cents,
Jimmy
89 TII

 

Why should you stay away from penzoil, crispin38?

 

well 20 50 is what i use on my rotary and i deal with all diferent kind of guys here in florida and back home in chicago , use 20 -50 they all say 20-50 and some say synthetic and some say castrol,, i guess is prefence cuz both their cars make lots of passes and local driving and street and strip and both side of the world say same thing,, up in chicago synthetic or castrol.,. in the cold and hot wheather is good 20-50 ,,and here they say 20-50 castrol or synthetic ..cuz of heat,, some like red line 20-50 some like royal purple 20-50 and of course castrol.. and this guys beat their car and this guys motors are good, means alot too what you got inside car,

 

Bullshit myth. You don't think piston cars have rubber orings? You ask for facts, but you go by a rule you heard from you mechanic based on nothing. Seriously?...

FYI I run nothing but Royal Purple 20w-50 for years ad never had an oil related engine failure. I recently switched to Redline 5w-20 and have found it makes an amazing difference in how long the oil stays clean and keeps its pressure. When I get home from work I will post a link on oil that will answer all your questions.

 

so your saying redline oil syn is better then royal purp syn???

 

Does it really matter at this point? It's no longer a sin to run synthetic in a rotary.

 

Its fallacy, no one in Mazda officially gave resonable explanation or hard evidence that synthetics are bad and yes, I´m talking about fully working OMP...

Most people over this place will recommend Castrol GTX 20W-50, but do you think that changing oil every 3K miles, even in N/A engines is evidence of quality? Wouldn´t be better to have quality synthetic and keep it there several times longer? With less carbon and slug build up?

You will have hard time finding some resonable info(backed with testing) about oil for rotaries, let alone asking about it on interwebz

And for all haters, closed mind and just plain stupid people... Synthetic oil burns, it burns cleaner than dino oil and is designed to burn, why? Because even 4-stroke engines burn oil...

 

For your information not all o-rings are the same, the are made of different material for different applications. THAT's a FACT. My mechanic and I we are both aircraft mechanics (A&P) and just like a car mechanic so we are not BS nobody. I said that was my opinion, no for you to get offended.

Later

 

The way I see it why bother spending more for an unknown effect. My buddy who races uses Redline and there is this Idemitsu Oil which is for rotaries for sale on mazdatrix. But as far as brand to brand, it could be argued all day which is good and not. I use 10W-40 Kendall Dino oil, and it is good stuff. I've heard that Mobil is bad for rotaries, but I just stick to Kendall. Look up the Mazdatrix FAQ as this is an argument that's twice as old as me.

 

I use 10W40 Royal Purple. Car runs and feels better than when I had dino oil in it.

Don't believe the myths.

 

If you like sludge buildup run it, if not stay as far away form Penzoil and Quaker State as you can.

BMW recommends Penzoil. And this is what it does to their engines. This is an extreme case by the way.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1281659

Personally I run Amsoil 20w-50 with zinc. And I would never go back.

 

I've been running Royal Purple motor and gear oil in my rotaries for years and they have never run better. It's more expensive, but you can go twice as long without an oil change with better protection, so it pays off.

 

Most any oil would look like **** after 40 000 miles. It was also proven later that that particular engine had far more than 40k before an oil change.

The rumour of Pennzoil being bad came from the paraffin wax they used to use. They no longer use this formula.

If you guys really want to duke it out over oil, read up here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

200k plus on this oil change. It is a diesel though.
http://www.amsoil.com/performancetes...ing/index.aspx

I do talk smack about Pensoil, but that's just the way I was raised and from personal expreince. I had Pensoil in my 85 GSL-SE from the previous owner. I never saw oil pressures above 50 psi, it also tended to drop at extended highway speeds. Replaced it with Amsoil and I haven't seen any low pressure or pressure drops since then.

 

How is royal purple expensive? you only have to change it every twelve thousand miles. so in the end, it's cheaper then any other oil you can buy, and that's a fact.
As far as why you shouldnt use pennzoil, becuase any engine builder will say not too. It has a bad habit with sludge. At least that's what i'm told, and i've used it before just to see, and it definetly doesnt perform.
To everyone running mineral oil, or who thinks they need something better: run synthetic, and just run the grade the operating manual recommends. (ex: Royal Purple 10W30), choosing your oil shouldnt be a big deal. Just change it when your supposed to and dont worry about it. No oil will 'cause' engine failure, but an oil can good enough can help premature engine detonation.

Or if my words not good enough, go ask an engine builder. Or anyone who road races in SCCA, they all use redline or royal purple. (yes, rotary guys like us, as do i.)

 

Can you really use royal purple for 20k? If so Id say that's probably what I'll start using. Probably won't go quite that long between oil changes though.