i was just wonder cuz i use synthetic and i was talking to a guy who is in the spec rx-7 series and he said that it gums up the oil injectors stuff. if it is bad can i switch back over to regular cuz i have heard that you can switch back once you have gone synthetic. im just wondering cuz i dont want the wrong oil in my car!!


thanks a lot

 

YES, he's right.

For the easiest oil change, and least work, use normal "DINO" or "BONE" oil... Non-synthetic. The rotary actually burns oil, so if you put synthetic in, the properties that are intended to make it better in piston engines (like harder burning), make it worse in a rotary.

The fancy crap in the oil won't burn, and carbons the engine up about 20x as fast as driving like grandma around town in 5th at 25mph...

If you REALLY want the benefits of synthetic (which I don't believe there are any really), you have to block off your omp, and run a separate electric oil pump for your oil injectors, and then you can run synthetic for the rest of the engine.

OR, just disconnect the OMP (oil metering pump) completely, and run premix... then you can also run synthetic.

BUT I wouldn't bother... just put in DINO oil, it'll save you a LOT of grief.

JEff

 

alright, so it is safe to just change to regular oil just out of the blue?

thanks for the info
kyle

 

It should be, and its probably a good idea if you were running snythetic.

 

might even want to put 4-8 oz of MMO in your oil before you change it too to help clean out the crap in your system. also a bit in the fuel (4oz each tank) would be beneficial.

 

I was wondering when someone was finally going to bring MMO into the picture! I was running Mobil 1 red top after the break-in of my RP streetport before I found this Forum. I read about the concerns but kept on doing the synth since it had saved this engine once, when I lost a lot of coolant to a rupture (the oil didn't break down when the temps hit the red zone...) as I struggled to get it home. The engine and the seals survived that, I'm convinced, because of the oil. Previous trips to the red zone temperature for only a minute with the other previous engines on dino oil went up like a Minardi in an F1 race. That was with Castrol 20-50W.
Anyhoos, at about the 20,000 mark, the car started to seem slower to rev and lose power. I rebuilt the carb and that helped, but not like I thought it would. I read Denny's treatise on MMO and had always read all the posts in this Forum on MMO, but never tried it. I finally gave it a shot thinking that maybe there was carbon build-up on my seals preventing them from doing their job because of the Mobil 1's ability to survive extreme heat. I'm not joking when I say it was two tanks of gas with 4 oz. in each and the beast was cured. I was going to run a long time experiment with synthetic oil and MMO on the hunch that the MMO was somehow catalyzing or breaking the long strands of the synth oil so it could pass out of the system, but I had my run-in with the Cadillac that ended it pre-maturely. This was the same engine that hit the dyno with a stock Nikki carb and RP streetport and scored a 113 rwhp @ 7200 RPM number...look up "An Interesting firstgen" in the search engine for the details of that car. Interestingly, or not, that post was done a week before the accident...

 

SHOULD YOU USE SYNTHETIC? THE ANSWER AWAITS YOU INSIDE THIS LINK...

- Short answer. No.

 

hadn't seen denny on here as much so i figured someone had to mention it.

if i had a stetson, i'd tip it.

 

what is MMO and where can i get it?

 

Magic Mystery Oil

 

Pep Boyz, O'Reilly's, Kragen, Autozone...whatever is in your neck of the woods in Wisconsin...

 

Marvel Mystery Oil down in the States...

 

alright, thanks i will get some of that and run it for a while and get that synthetic **** out of my car. thanks for all the help guys its really appreciated

 

My mistook