Hi,

I'm in the proccess of planning out my new car build-up for the spring, and one of my main area is the stock suspension.

It's a GSL-SE that will be my daily driver, cruiser, and will also likely see some track time and auto-x.

I'm looking for advice and opinions on what I've already planned and anything I may have missed, as well as answers to a couple questions.

First, is the G-Force 1st gen set-up manual worth the $75? Does anyone have a used copy they wanna sell?


Up front:

Bushings, either Polyurethane or Polygraphite... which is better?

CP Strut tri-strut bar
CP Steering rack
Koni red struts

Coil Overs - Ground or G-Force?

I'm also thinking about the Racing Beat lowering kit. I like the idea of increased suspension travel while lowering the car.

And then there's the Racing beat adjustable lower cotrol arms. I'm not sure how much they help... opinions?

And what about G-Force's Turn-In Spacers and Spherical bushings?

And of course appropriate springs (probably eibach)


Rear:

Again, poly bushings
G-Force Tri-Link setup
Koni reds again
Springs, probably RB...
The Carl mod on the Watts link
(http://www.pbandjracing.com/rear_suspension.html)

What about a G-Force Panhard... is it overkill?


Anything else?

 

it depends on the class you'd want to run, ie, the turn in spacers would be illegal for csp autoxing, i'd also look at a set of camber plates so that you can dial in a bit of camber. I'm trying to built my gsl up to a similar setup, here is what i'm planning on doing...

gc coilovers (spring rates tbd)
konis (already on the car)
gc camber plates
energy bushings for the front (have some already installed)
new rod ends, etc
front strut tower brace
autometer rollbar
rear suspension pbandj racing mod
second set of wheels with slicks

i was told that panhard won't work too well on the street, so i'd say stay away from it...

Alvin

 

oh yeah, i'd stay away from the control arms and just get camber plates...

 

Good start... You're on the same page as me... You discarded all the things I was really iffy on...

 

What was the reason the panhard wouldn't be advisable for street use? Sorry for stealin' the thread

 

Not at all... it's a discussion thread...

 

just go through this link...

http://www.pbandjracing.com/rear_suspension.html

i mean, it will work, just not ideal for a daily driver

 

I didn't see any camber plates for a 1st gen on GC's website...

 

maybe i was thinking of g force engineering or mazdatrix... But i though ground control does have it...

 

GC has a 2nd gen kit...




.... Found it on G-Force...

 

Why has no one mentioned the lack of an upgraded front swaybar?

Dan

 

To be honest I don't feel the need.

The stock front end is petty good (except for the steering). I do want some camber control which is why we were discussing those options, and I want coil-overs for balancing reasons.
Springs, struts, and the strut bar are all no brainers.
And I feel the stock steering is the single weakest component of the 1st gen.

Other than that I think the setup up front is great. What would you hope to gain from a lager front sway bar? Ever had a problem with understeer? I never have, except in extreme weather.

I have had GOBS of oversteer, so it's the rear that's going to get most of my attention. Gotta keep that BEAST planted and not binding up...

 

Fronts:
-Ground Control camber plates
-Tokico Illumina (since they fit the GC plates)
-Ground Control coilover kit with probably 300-350lb springs
-Poly or stiffer tension rod bushings
-G-Force turn-in spacers
-Stiffer sway bar or at least poly bushings on the stock bar
-Strut tower bar

Rear:
-Ground Control (made by Eibach) 175lb rear springs with dead coils
-Any shocks to match...
-New upper link bushings with the PBandJ mod
-Poly lower link bushings
-New Watts link bushings
-New rear sway bar bushings (or remove bar depending on how tail-happy of a car you like)
-LSD (you will need it if you are using anything smaller than 15" wheels, and want to take tighter turns faster)

Don't forget wheels. I think they make one of the biggest differences in the handling capabilities of the car. When I emailed G-Force, they recommended 13-14" diameter wheels with all of their suspension products. You can go bigger, but it will change the handling attitude of the car. I would go with at least a 6.5" wide wheel up front and at least a 7" wide wheel in the back. If I had a choice, I would probably run a 14x7" +25-35 wheel up front and a 14x7.5" +30 wheel in the back. You can run a staggered wheel or just a staggered offset setup to help with the oversteer.

 

It's funny you mention "steering" because that's where a bigger front bar made a HUGE difference! Turn in is much crisper, and it' just more confidence inspiring with the front bar. Rear bar I left stock for autocross, and dis-connect it for track days...

Dan

 

But with the stiffer sway bar you also run into traction issues on rough roads, and I live in the country, so...

Besides, the sway bar won't do anything to improve steering feedback or slop/play. The CP Kit completely solves both of those issues, without harming rough road traction.

 

I'd still love to take a car equipped with the CP R&P for a spin....

Dan

 

I'm still looking for opinions on on:

Polyurethane or Polygraphite --- Which is better? Why?

Ground Control or G-Force Coil-overs --- Which is better?

RB Lowering Kit - Opinions? Anyone know what Auto-x class they'd push me into?

 

The lowering kit pushes you straight to DM

Dan

 

I run Ground control coil-overs bt either one you chose should be the same thing.... all depends what spring rates you'll run.

Note you won't be able to run racing beat springs with your coil over setup.. Not like it makes a difference. At the front at least. You have to use small ID springs.

Also checkout ISCracing.net for parts, I've dealt with them b4 and they are great people with fast shipping, most importantly great prices.

I have the rear coil over setup from them. (Also uses a special springs, so don't buy racing beat springs unless you plan to upgrade later!)

 

Thanks for ISC Racing!
I hadn't heard of them before...

 

the only problem with the CP rack is there is lag in initial turn. try searching for people's reviews of them. most people like that it's tighter, but there is just a dead spot in the center. If your car doesn't have the wonder steer problem stray away. If it ain't broke don't fix it..

 

Lag...?

I never encountered this in my old car (CP Steering ver 2.1)or the other ones I got to play with... neither have a I ever heard it from anyone else that I recall...

They were all immediately responsive...

The biggest complaint I encountered, other than fitment (mostly bent chasis), or shipping (no suprise there), is the stock lock-to-lock radius.

You may have noticed I'm a pretty active poster when it comes to CP... think you can point me towards a thread that talks about this "lag"?

 

wouldn't a r&p put you out of most racing classes?

 

True, but by the time I get that on the car I'll be ready to move up a few classes... hopfully.
It's not planned for my inital build-up, but for "stage 2"

 

smnc, I just wanted to clear up one point. Adding a stiffer front sway bar will decrease oversteer, just like adding a stiffer rear bar will increase it.