Alright guys, I am having a hell of a time trying to get the bolts out that connects the front shocks to the ball joints. I tried turning the wheel to get a little extra clearance from the control arm I tried to get a socket over it. I managed to hammer it on part of the way but couldn't get the socket over it all the way and it tries to strip while I turn it. So I have soaked it with wd40 about 5 times today over the course of about 8 hours went out there with a 17mm wrench, and couldn't get it to budge. Afraid to try it with another socket in case it strips and then I will be completely screwed in getting this shock out.
Anyone have any kind of ideas on what I can do? Maybe get some more clearance so I can get the socket on the bolt all the way so I can just grab a bar and break this bolt free? Any other options to try and maybe get some more torque out of just a wrench? I don't have a torch to heat this up or I would be out there doing that. If I strip the bolt I'm not sure what I can do with it then. I got the passenger side shock installed already and its sitting almost an inch higher than the driver side, so I would prefer to not drive it like that + pay someone who knows how much money just to break free a few bolts.

 

Get a torch, even a cheap propane one will help a lot. Those bolts can get rusted in there good, even with a torch and PB blaster I snapped one of them in half. Best bet is to spray it down with PB blaster, let it soak, heat it up with a torch and pray. Using the closed end of the wrench on the bolt, you can put a pipe over the wrench, or take the closed end of another wrench close to the same size, and lock that onto the open end of the 17mm wrench for more leverage, like this - http://cliff.hostkansas.com/images/2...i-IMG_3850.JPG

If you break it or strip it completely, then you have to cut the head of the bolt off. Torch what's left of the bolt real good and use vice grips to remove it from the shock.

 

I was using 2 wrenches to try and turn it like in the picture with my longest wrenches and it was bending the 2nd wrench lol. I guess I have no choice but to wait until I can afford a propane torch for them. I don't really have the room to get in there and cut them with a grinder, If I have to cut them I will probably have to buy a new dremel

 

If your bending a wrench by doing that #1 you have cheap wrenches, #2 do not apply constant pressure. Keep enough pressure on it to hold the 2 together, but give it some good hits. Shocking the bolt works better than constant pressure, its how an impact works. I think what I did on the one at the salvage yard I pulled was use my long 17mm wrench, turn the wheel so it wouldn't turn anymore, sat my *** on the ground and gave it a few kicks.

Spray it down, heat it up, hit the wrench with a hammer or kick it or something other than just constant pressure.

 

Also, it makes it harder, but you can change the shock without removing those bolts. If you can unbolt the control arm from the frame(after taking off the brake caliper, sway bar, and tie rod) then you can take out the whole assembly and change the shock. You might be able to sneak the top of the shock out of the fender with just taking off the sway bar and maybe the tie rod, dunno havn't tried that one yet.

 

I'm not looking at my manual but that old rusty bolt is probably 90flbs. U need air tools or a large breaker bar. A large bar from harbor frieght is only $10. Leverage is everything, ever see the size of the bar used to do a rx7 flywheel it's about 5feet to torque 320 lbs

If u wreck the bolt U'll have to drill it out or weld a bar to it and try again.

 

I went through this exact thing a couple of months ago. It was the front bolt on the left side that was stuck. I tried lots of things over a couple of weeks including heat. I ended up taking the whole thing (strut and lower arm off the car as a unit and then using an air powered impact wrench. What I decided had happened when I got it apart was the threads got messed up when it was put together. There was no rust on the threads. I suspect they tightened up the rear bolt and then there was a minor misalignment when the front bolt went in and they just drove it in with an impact wrench galling the threads.

Get a 6 point socket which impact sockets are. We had to turn up the air pressure and use a short hose to the tank. And even then it took almost 30 seconds of impacts before it broke loose.

I was able to clean up the inside threads on the strut tube base with a tap. The bolt was not really in usable condition. Photo of it is attached. I kept this to remind me to use anti seize compound on everything I put back together and to not be a ham fisted idiot.

Good luck!

 

I would make sure to use a six point socket. The twelve point will be more likely to strip it. +1 for the propane torch. Good luck!

 

WD40 is not a great penetrating oil - - it's more a corrosion preventer than anything else.

Use PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or something else intended for breaking up corrosion.

 

I actually did what someone said above with taking out the control arm and everything. Actually made it quite a bit easier to get it out rather than having to fight those bolts. I also found out my sway bar linkage wasn't even hooked up to anything, it broke in half at some point.

 

did u check the clearance?

 

Check the clearance for what?

 

I know it's been a year since this post but I though you might be able to help me. I sheared this same exact bolt today so now I'm trying to find a replacement. Where did you buy a new one these bolts to replace yours?

 

The replacement that actually looks right was found at O'Reillys in their metric bolt section. It is not a grade 8 bolt but it has been in the car over a year now. I ordered what is supposed to be the correct bolt from Black Dragon and it is the correct length but the black dragon bolt is fully threaded and is that yellow color surface finish. The original bolt as you can see from the photo above is not fully threaded. The O'Reillys bolt also has a larger head which was not an issue. I figured the next time I took it apart I would replace the O'Reillys bolt with the supposedly correct one but I am in no hurry at this point.

You might also check at your local Fastenal store.

Good luck!

 

this is great thanks.. gonna check oreillys out

 

For anyone who is looking to replace this bolt the size is M12x1.5x35 class 10.9 and I bought some from belmetric.com