Strut retaining screw and Respeed coil overs
#1
Strut retaining screw and Respeed coil overs
So correct me if I have this wrong, but if I'm not mistaken when you cut the stock spring seats off you're also cutting off the retaining screw for your front struts. Do you just wind up driving around with no retaining screws? Does this not create a problem? Or am I just misunderstanding something again? Anyone got any pics of just the assembly after they've been cut and then another after they've been welded. Or even uncut with the cut marks would shed some light on this for me. Thanks again.
#2
Jolly Green Giant
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The stock perch/seat is simply welded onto the strut tube, you never actually cut the strut tube, you simply cut the welds on the perch and then cut the perch itself off leaving the strut tube completely unharmed, you then slip on the new perch, figure out where you want to weld it, and weld it into place.
I unfortunately don't have any pics on hand but hopefully that helps a little.
edit: here we are, this is what they look like after the new perch is installed, the strut tube remains completely intact.
I unfortunately don't have any pics on hand but hopefully that helps a little.
edit: here we are, this is what they look like after the new perch is installed, the strut tube remains completely intact.
#7
What do the respeed weld on perches look like then? They aren't those big washer like things with part of the side cut off are they? I hope I'm not missing more pieces than i thought. Also, just to be clear, the threaded section doesn't get welded down. It just sits on the perch and chills. With this I think I might be able to picture how it all goes together.
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#8
Never Follow
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Yes the new spring perch is the large round part with a side trimmed flat (this side faces the tire btw) you just cut the old spring perch off (don't cut into the tube at all though) then weld that new one on. Then a plastic sleeve slides on and the blue threaded piece goes over that. It's a real tight fit so it's not going anywhere.
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You do not need those brackets for the brake line. They're nice to have but not necessary. Why won't the perch go down to 6 inches? Did you grind the welds from the stock perch completely or just cut the perches off and leave it?
#13
Lives on the Forum
Yeah, lose the bracket or just go with what you have. Unless you intend to drop it to the ground, you won't need to mount the perch that far down the strut tube.
Only you can decide if you're going to need that last little bit.
Only you can decide if you're going to need that last little bit.
#14
Yeah i went with what I had. I'm having a couple of alignment issues but nothing major, just toe really. My big problem is the rears I have the passenger side just above minimum and the drivers side almost maxed out to make it even. Seems wrong to me, I also get clicking from the rear passenger, obvious spring noise. Any insight? Ah and just to dbl check. In the rear, spring flat on the stock mount, adjuster to the top with the lip of the collar at the top, removed stock rubber spring damper. Does that sound right?
#15
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It sounds like you are using the early strut tubes, the 84-85 have plenty of room.
I'm using 7.5inch long/2.5in dia/400lbs Eibach springs (0750/250/0400) on my car with 84-85 large bearing spindle.
This the ground control Uweld kit I used. http://www.ground-control-store.com/...hp/II=40/CA=23
Here's some pics.
I'm using 7.5inch long/2.5in dia/400lbs Eibach springs (0750/250/0400) on my car with 84-85 large bearing spindle.
This the ground control Uweld kit I used. http://www.ground-control-store.com/...hp/II=40/CA=23
Here's some pics.