zephyr07

iTrader: (2)

I'm trying to remove the original front strut from the housing/spring assembly, but can't loosen the nut on top of the strut without the entire strut turning along with it. My chilton's manual says Mazda has a special tool for this, but is there any way to get the assembly apart without the tool?

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Are you using an impact gun? This is the easiest method. You need to "shock" the nut off. Trying to turn it with a normal ratchet just won't work. The method I used, even though it is frowned upon, is to move the bumpstop that is on the top of the piston shaft under the strut top, grab the shaft tightly with some visegrips, and then turn the nut off. When I did this the visegrips did not make any nicks in the shaft. The reason this is something to worry about is because those nicks can damage the seal and then your nice new shocks won't be so nice anymore. However the reason I wasn't worried about it is because the top of the shaft where you would put the visegrips gets covered by the bumpstop when the strut is reassembled and does not slide past the seal. I will not recommend this route if you can get ahold of an impact gun, and I hereby absolve myself of any liability should you take this advice and royaly screw yourself. Just know that I did it and the result was no ill effect on the piston shaft.

zephyr07

iTrader: (2)

I tried what you did, grabbing the shaft with vice grips near the top, and I am replacing the strut anyway, but even the vice grips couldn't keep the strut from sliding. I guess I'll have to borrow an impact gun from someone..

slow5oh

here is the method I used, it worked just fine:

1. remove strut assembly from the car
2. place the assembly in a vice
3. use a hammer and appropriate sized wrench and break the nut loose and remove it.
4. change strut cartridge
5. reassembly is reverse of disassembly

im assuming you are referring to the large nut that holds the cartridge into the strut assembly. If you are referring to the large nut on top of the strut tower that holds the piston shaft into the body, the same method of wrench + hammer should work just fine, although for that part, i used a 3/8" impact.

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

This could be extremely dangerous. What did you do to avoid the spring when it flew off? Aftermarket springs are shorter and usually not under compression so it might be OK with them. Stock springs are almost always under compression and the strut top and spring would fly off with considerable force if the above procedure was followed.

Impact wrench and a pair of $20 spring compressors from your local parts store will make the job much safer. You should use the impact wrentch to put it back on also. I have some pictures here.
http://intertron.com/ron/st.html

slow5oh

the stock springs arent under that much compression. you can set the strut assumbly on the ground, place the impact on the nut and push down while you slowly take it off and hold the tension by hand. i was surprised at how easy it was. just out of curiosity, i put the old spring back on to see how hard it would be. I was able to compress it by hand AND get the nut started.

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

You were very lucky. I've had 1 out of the 20 or so I've done which were not under enough compression to matter. If a spring compressor is to much trouble, at least remove the nut while the struts are in the car. Then when you jack it up the springs will uncompress.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Never recommend not using a tool whose sole use is for safety. $20 could save a life.

Kentetsu

VERY VERY lucky.... The three that I've done had enough stored energy to shoot a hole through the roof, if I hadn't used the spring compressors.

Do not advise people to try this, that is just irresponsible. Do not assume that every spring is going to have exactly the same charicteristics that yours did.

zephyr07

iTrader: (2)

I rented a spring compressor, the neighbor has an impact gun and got the assembly apart this morning. I suppose for the other assembly I should loosen everything up while it's still on the car.

slow5oh

Ive done springs on several different makes and models of car, both new and old, and have never had to use a spring compressor. I typically assume that people working on their own cars would have enough common sense to tell if what they are doing is safe or not, but perhaps i shouldnt. ill try to stay more safety minded in the future with my posts.

Kentetsu

Much appreciated. You have to remember that we get all levels of expertise visting this site, and the things that you write will be here for years to come. If somebody read your post who didn't have much experience, they could be severly injured when the spring let loose.

slow5oh

after re-reading my post, i completely understand that, and as stated above, I apologize for that. I have been working on performance cars of various makes and models all my life and i take alot of things for granted when i explain things.

zephyr07

iTrader: (2)

So, I got the old strut out and the new strut and racing beat spring in, but since the rb spring is considerably shorter, it seems to have a little play in the assembly. Should I be worried about this or will everything kind of come together once the weight of the car is involved? Obviously other people have used these springs successfully but I just want to make sure..

slow5oh

it should all tighten up once the weight of the car is on it, but make sure everything is in place correctly before you put it back together just incase.

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

^ Make sure the ends of the springs are aligned with the depressions in the bottom and top of the strut assembly. I always like to re-check all the bolts and nuts after few hundred miles or so.

slow5oh

that is a good idea. the main bolt started loosening up on mine an it made one hell of a racket everytime i hit a bump, went back and rechecked everything after that.