stripped spark plug
05-30-12, 10:59 PM
#29
Roller into Roadster
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Those pictures made me cringe!! I have two over torqued plugs (bolt head way to far screwed into the eyebrow) in my leading spots from the previous owner I still need to get out, but at least I feel I will be able to remove them with some pb blaster and a nifty grippy wrench I have once I lift the car up. Best of luck but hopefully a good bolt weld with someone knowing what they are doing like was suggested will complete the mission.
05-31-12, 01:22 AM
#30
Sin City Rotary
Thread Starter
Umm no wouldn't have enough bite to keep from slippin
you forgot to mention the nap LMAO
I am not sure how hard it would be to find the Mazda socket but you may want to look into it ...... "someone knowing what they are doing" lol guess that the problem as I'll be using my mig welder
Those pictures made me cringe!! I have two over torqued plugs (bolt head way to far screwed into the eyebrow) in my leading spots from the previous owner I still need to get out, but at least I feel I will be able to remove them with some pb blaster and a nifty grippy wrench I have once I lift the car up. Best of luck but hopefully a good bolt weld with someone knowing what they are doing like was suggested will complete the mission.
05-31-12, 01:49 AM
#31
Sin City Rotary
Thread Starter
So ...... I grinded the heck out of the spark plug socket ..... but no luck
Then time to experiment
Method A
Hammer and Chisel .... split it nice but not busting it making the core accessible
Method B
Hammer and Wire Snippers
Both Methods resulting in the porcelain at the tip remaining intact
Ok so this is the idea, lug nut welded to what is remaining of the spark plug .... will provide a valley to weld in and hopefully resulting in a removed spark plug
Wifes idea is aluminum foil with a hole poked through to shield the engine from sparks and such
Then time to experiment
Method A
Hammer and Chisel .... split it nice but not busting it making the core accessible
Method B
Hammer and Wire Snippers
Both Methods resulting in the porcelain at the tip remaining intact
Ok so this is the idea, lug nut welded to what is remaining of the spark plug .... will provide a valley to weld in and hopefully resulting in a removed spark plug
Wifes idea is aluminum foil with a hole poked through to shield the engine from sparks and such
05-31-12, 11:36 AM
#33
slag won't stick to aluminum from the mig, i wouldn't worry about any shielding. blow out the area with compressed air before removing the plug but try to do it all quickly because the head on the plug body from welding will let it come out easier. removing cold plugs is usually when people break them because they are locked in tighter.
if you do not pull the engine then you will have to try and weld the lug in at least 3 spots around the perimeter, it would be best to weld it fully but that will be nearly impossible.
if you do not pull the engine then you will have to try and weld the lug in at least 3 spots around the perimeter, it would be best to weld it fully but that will be nearly impossible.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 05-31-12 at 11:40 AM.
05-31-12, 02:17 PM
#35
Sin City Rotary
Thread Starter
Looks it don't it
mirror will work wonders, may not be the prettiest but will have penetration and considering it's heading to the garbage doesn't matter
duh yeah it's what we used to keep tons of clay sticking to the racecars lol
the alternate was a wd40 bath via a bug sprayer ... she checked on me as I polished the housings by hand so I appreciate where she is coming from
slag won't stick to aluminum from the mig, i wouldn't worry about any shielding. blow out the area with compressed air before removing the plug but try to do it all quickly because the head on the plug body from welding will let it come out easier. removing cold plugs is usually when people break them because they are locked in tighter.
if you do not pull the engine then you will have to try and weld the lug in at least 3 spots around the perimeter, it would be best to weld it fully but that will be nearly impossible.
if you do not pull the engine then you will have to try and weld the lug in at least 3 spots around the perimeter, it would be best to weld it fully but that will be nearly impossible.
duh yeah it's what we used to keep tons of clay sticking to the racecars lol
the alternate was a wd40 bath via a bug sprayer ... she checked on me as I polished the housings by hand so I appreciate where she is coming from
Last edited by 13x; 05-31-12 at 02:19 PM.
06-03-12, 01:37 AM
#37
Sin City Rotary
Thread Starter
06-03-12, 01:54 AM
#38
Sin City Rotary
Thread Starter
Theory tested .......
Taking a wheel nut with a 13/16 outer size I proceeded to drill out the threads ... that took a couple of minutes but allowwed the nut to slide over the porcelain to mate with the spark plug .... now to be able to weld around to get a good bite I positioned a mirror to see underneath
The result was a success .... thank you everyone for your input and best wishes as engine removal was really that last option
......... the trophy!!
now that I can eliminate "bad plugs" I can move forward with trying to figure out the issue with how it's running
Taking a wheel nut with a 13/16 outer size I proceeded to drill out the threads ... that took a couple of minutes but allowwed the nut to slide over the porcelain to mate with the spark plug .... now to be able to weld around to get a good bite I positioned a mirror to see underneath
The result was a success .... thank you everyone for your input and best wishes as engine removal was really that last option
......... the trophy!!
now that I can eliminate "bad plugs" I can move forward with trying to figure out the issue with how it's running
Last edited by 13x; 06-03-12 at 01:56 AM.
06-03-12, 11:45 AM
#40
I don't want to harsh your buzz...
I don't want to harsh your buzz... but the idiot who put the plugs in my salvage yard 12A must have used an impact wrench to put it in. It took an enormous breaker bar to get it loose and out. As I was doing the next plug in the same housing, a trickle of water started coming out of the plug hole. I was not pleased.
The engine was basically junk when I got it, it held water and ran but didn't have power so I'm sure the plug was one of the least of its worries. The engine I replaced it with was so good that I considered keeping the car as it seemed as fast as my SE. Wish I'd kept her.
Good luck. You got it out, don't forget the anti seize compound!
The engine was basically junk when I got it, it held water and ran but didn't have power so I'm sure the plug was one of the least of its worries. The engine I replaced it with was so good that I considered keeping the car as it seemed as fast as my SE. Wish I'd kept her.
Good luck. You got it out, don't forget the anti seize compound!
06-03-12, 11:53 AM
#41
not sure why you guys love anti seize so much, i have never had it help with these spark plugs. the threads will carbon up over time regardless if they have anti seize on them or not.
best tips for installation and removal is: cinch them down, you don't have to put much pressure on the plugs when installing and that is why they lock into the housings. warm the engine up prior to removal to release the plugs a little bit easier.
best tips for installation and removal is: cinch them down, you don't have to put much pressure on the plugs when installing and that is why they lock into the housings. warm the engine up prior to removal to release the plugs a little bit easier.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 06-03-12 at 11:56 AM.
06-03-12, 04:16 PM
#44
Sin City Rotary
Thread Starter
socket not a problem
yes had tried to twist before weld had cooled resulting in snapping the porcelain
and thanks
I don't want to harsh your buzz... but the idiot who put the plugs in my salvage yard 12A must have used an impact wrench to put it in. It took an enormous breaker bar to get it loose and out. As I was doing the next plug in the same housing, a trickle of water started coming out of the plug hole. I was not pleased.
The engine was basically junk when I got it, it held water and ran but didn't have power so I'm sure the plug was one of the least of its worries. The engine I replaced it with was so good that I considered keeping the car as it seemed as fast as my SE. Wish I'd kept her.
Good luck. You got it out, don't forget the anti seize compound!
The engine was basically junk when I got it, it held water and ran but didn't have power so I'm sure the plug was one of the least of its worries. The engine I replaced it with was so good that I considered keeping the car as it seemed as fast as my SE. Wish I'd kept her.
Good luck. You got it out, don't forget the anti seize compound!
not sure why you guys love anti seize so much, i have never had it help with these spark plugs. the threads will carbon up over time regardless if they have anti seize on them or not.
best tips for installation and removal is: cinch them down, you don't have to put much pressure on the plugs when installing and that is why they lock into the housings. warm the engine up prior to removal to release the plugs a little bit easier.
best tips for installation and removal is: cinch them down, you don't have to put much pressure on the plugs when installing and that is why they lock into the housings. warm the engine up prior to removal to release the plugs a little bit easier.
some manufacturers apply at the factory
oh boy what will I do with it?!??! lol
06-03-12, 04:25 PM
#45
That one goes on the shelf!
I've used anti-sieze on plugs since forever, and i've never had one I installed that was any trouble to remove. Just needs a small dab to do the job, placed on the threads near the electrode end. It'll smear around as you install.
& resist the urge to tighten too much; spec is only 9-13 ftlbs, which is just a medium-firm pull with a normal ratchet. I've never heard of a plug coming out because it was loose.
I've used anti-sieze on plugs since forever, and i've never had one I installed that was any trouble to remove. Just needs a small dab to do the job, placed on the threads near the electrode end. It'll smear around as you install.
& resist the urge to tighten too much; spec is only 9-13 ftlbs, which is just a medium-firm pull with a normal ratchet. I've never heard of a plug coming out because it was loose.
06-03-12, 04:45 PM
#46
Sin City Rotary
Thread Starter
That one goes on the shelf!
I've used anti-sieze on plugs since forever, and i've never had one I installed that was any trouble to remove. Just needs a small dab to do the job, placed on the threads near the electrode end. It'll smear around as you install.
& resist the urge to tighten too much; spec is only 9-13 ftlbs, which is just a medium-firm pull with a normal ratchet. I've never heard of a plug coming out because it was loose.
I've used anti-sieze on plugs since forever, and i've never had one I installed that was any trouble to remove. Just needs a small dab to do the job, placed on the threads near the electrode end. It'll smear around as you install.
& resist the urge to tighten too much; spec is only 9-13 ftlbs, which is just a medium-firm pull with a normal ratchet. I've never heard of a plug coming out because it was loose.
I have some anti seize need to get in the habit of using on plugs have always used for doing brakes
yeah plug with gasket ring is touch and 1/2 turn if I recall correctly ... over compensated as they were not new plugs
a benefit of using the SA engine .... no damn eyebrows
06-03-12, 05:43 PM
#49
Sin City Rotary
Thread Starter
lol good idea
Really, that was stated in post number 9 regarding tighness by me.
But on a positive note didn't waste a day removing and replacing the engine
But on a positive note didn't waste a day removing and replacing the engine
Last edited by 13x; 06-03-12 at 05:47 PM.
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