Streetporting my rebuilt engine
due just keep you 12a rebuild it yourself or fix that dowell pin leak and do some prting learn a few thing on the car through trial end error but remember that.
One you've jumped you can fly so think before you jump off that tall bridge twinkie.
t2 engines need a stronger driveline and rear end gears. So if your rich go ahead but if you are like me just get a nice gsl with lsd rear and discs and go crazy.
One you've jumped you can fly so think before you jump off that tall bridge twinkie.
t2 engines need a stronger driveline and rear end gears. So if your rich go ahead but if you are like me just get a nice gsl with lsd rear and discs and go crazy.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,740
Likes: 6
From: Las Vegas, NV
I already have a GSL, so I got that part, yes. I like it. I'm thinking of a s5 13b now, because it would be enoguh power, and its n/a so more reliable. I'll see, just thoughts, no decisions yet.
While the S5 has 14 more hp stock than the S4, they are harder to find and cost more to install due to the needed modding of the front cover for the electronic mop, which is a 1300 part if it goes out.
If I had an S5 and the e-mop went out, the 1st thing I would do is go premix, tear out the the stock ecu and go MegaSquirt. In the long run it's cheaper and will give greater tuneability, which can aide in passing emissions, more performance and better fuel mileage, depending on how one tunes the MS.
If I had an S5 and the e-mop went out, the 1st thing I would do is go premix, tear out the the stock ecu and go MegaSquirt. In the long run it's cheaper and will give greater tuneability, which can aide in passing emissions, more performance and better fuel mileage, depending on how one tunes the MS.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,740
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From: Las Vegas, NV
So, should I just go with the s4 13b. Thats plenty enough power too. 160 horses right? Thanks for all your input guys. I think If i'm going 13b, then I'll do the s4, because I only have about $2,000. I'm thinking no matter what I do though, I'll install the enigne to save some money. Plus, it will be a good experience.
Originally Posted by twinkletoes
So, should I just go with the s4 13b. Thats plenty enough power too. 160 horses right?
160 hp for the S5 NAs, and 146 for the S4s. Tell us about the emissions testing where you're at. Do they put it on the sniffer, how stringent is the visual inspection? Do they require newer engine upgrades to remain in stock configuration?
Another options might be building a carbed 4-port SE engine with headers and a cat. It all depends on what you can get past the inspectors.
Keep in mind that by going FI, you will need to upgrade the fuel pump and should have a sumped tank or add a surge tank.
Another options might be building a carbed 4-port SE engine with headers and a cat. It all depends on what you can get past the inspectors.
Keep in mind that by going FI, you will need to upgrade the fuel pump and should have a sumped tank or add a surge tank.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,740
Likes: 6
From: Las Vegas, NV
Um, back in May when I got it tested, we just pulled up to a little smog test hut thing. Then she attached some wires to get the rpm, put the exhaust thing in the muffler, and tested it. She didn't even look under the car. Thats all I know, My friend past with exhaust at the same place.
Honestly, being young and this is your 1st car, and you will have many more to come as you journey through life, rebuilding the stock 12A, with some minor porting and cleaning up the intake, a little porting in the exhaust and upgrading it, will yield you enough extra hp to get you through high school and your choice of higher education.
This will keep you legal with emissions and give you reliability, along with lesser build and operating expense. Once you are out in the world and settled, you can build up the car the way you want to. At this point in your life, I would keep it as simple as possible. You have many years ahead of you to build and play with the car you want when the time comes.
This will keep you legal with emissions and give you reliability, along with lesser build and operating expense. Once you are out in the world and settled, you can build up the car the way you want to. At this point in your life, I would keep it as simple as possible. You have many years ahead of you to build and play with the car you want when the time comes.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,740
Likes: 6
From: Las Vegas, NV
Alright trochoid, maybe i'll rebuild it and do some porting(is the porting hard?, and I would jsut want a mild one. I know I have the abilities to rebuild the engine, so maybe I will. It should be a fun experience if I do it too. Plus, I can show my family how a rotary works,
. Thanks guys, I'll think about a lot more, and let you guys know what I think
. Thanks guys, I'll think about a lot more, and let you guys know what I think
i wouldn't say porting an engine easy ... especially for a virgin.
however, it's not difficult. you sort of have to try conceptualizing what the mixture is doing as it enters and exits the engine, really. not sure what your spatial thought is like, but if you read enough here and on nopistons, you should be able to get through it just fine. use the RB templates, they are generally accepted as being pretty mild.
i think the key for someone your age, and in this country with it's "bigger is always better"-culture, is resist the temptation to believing that crito. i've said this to a few guys in your position: don't be greedy! i think you will be pleased with your results and you'll start building experience for a time when you can afford to be greedy.
however, it's not difficult. you sort of have to try conceptualizing what the mixture is doing as it enters and exits the engine, really. not sure what your spatial thought is like, but if you read enough here and on nopistons, you should be able to get through it just fine. use the RB templates, they are generally accepted as being pretty mild.i think the key for someone your age, and in this country with it's "bigger is always better"-culture, is resist the temptation to believing that crito. i've said this to a few guys in your position: don't be greedy! i think you will be pleased with your results and you'll start building experience for a time when you can afford to be greedy.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,740
Likes: 6
From: Las Vegas, NV
Thanks guys, I'm still thinking s5 13b swap though. It should pass smog sense its stock port, shouldn't it? Maybe not after I got exhaust though. Steves 84 T2 passes with cali. I think I would probably want more power just for the heck of it. I think I might do it. Remember though, these are my thoughts, so not even close to deciding what i'm going to do. Hopefully a s5 13b swap,
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Post number 1,234
.Post number 1,234
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,740
Likes: 6
From: Las Vegas, NV
Check this out. Is this everything needed to rebuild my engine except for the apex seals? It doesn't look like a lot of stuff. What do you guys think? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAZDA...spagenameZWD1V
I knew Fel-Pro made a gasket set, but I haven't been able to find one online of a part #. This is only a basic gasket kit and not much cheaper than some of the oem ones.
For a rebuild, you will need a lot more than just the apex seals. Don't be fooled by price, cheaper is not always better and while a full rebuild kit may seem pricey, very few of the parts in the kits are not needed. The kit you linked to is simply for those who want to freshen up a good engine, with all of the hard parts/seals, still well within specs.
Even if your irons, housing, rotors and apex seals are good, you should still replace all of the o-rings, springs and corner seals, which this kit does not include.
As far as porting, read through the entire engine building and porting section over at NoPistons.com. That will give you an idea as to what all is involved.
For a rebuild, you will need a lot more than just the apex seals. Don't be fooled by price, cheaper is not always better and while a full rebuild kit may seem pricey, very few of the parts in the kits are not needed. The kit you linked to is simply for those who want to freshen up a good engine, with all of the hard parts/seals, still well within specs.
Even if your irons, housing, rotors and apex seals are good, you should still replace all of the o-rings, springs and corner seals, which this kit does not include.
As far as porting, read through the entire engine building and porting section over at NoPistons.com. That will give you an idea as to what all is involved.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,740
Likes: 6
From: Las Vegas, NV
Knew I forgot somebody, mazdatrix. I checked atkinsrotary, they only have the 13b kit. I might jsut have rotarywarehouse rebuild it or get the s5 13b engine. If i got the kit it would almost cost 1k and then all the tools needed to get the engien rebuilt will pretty much cost the same as getting it professionally rebuilt. Rotarywarehouse sells rebuilt engines for 1,500
Well if you don't have tools to do a rebuild yourself then you are definitely better off just buying another engine. If you don't have the tools to do a rebuild, though, do you have the tools to pull the engine at all along with the tools to get a 13B in your car? I'm not sure if you have to change the front cover plate on the NA 13B's like you do the turbo 13B's, but that will require pulling at least the front cover plate off of the engine and replacing it with one from a GSL-SE.
Then comes the point that if you don't have the tools to pull the engine (engine puller, sockets and wrenches, along with all the tools needed to get everything off the block), how are you going to put another engine back in?
You almost make it sound like you don't have any tools at all.
If you can get your hands on something to lift the engine out of the car, and considering the lack of tools you have I would say that you should either 1) have someone else rebuild your engine, or 2) buy another engine. If I recall correctly, I think Trochoid said he would rebuild for a good price.
Or you can go with the whole rotarywarehouse just like you mentioned.
Then comes the point that if you don't have the tools to pull the engine (engine puller, sockets and wrenches, along with all the tools needed to get everything off the block), how are you going to put another engine back in?
You almost make it sound like you don't have any tools at all.
If you can get your hands on something to lift the engine out of the car, and considering the lack of tools you have I would say that you should either 1) have someone else rebuild your engine, or 2) buy another engine. If I recall correctly, I think Trochoid said he would rebuild for a good price.
Or you can go with the whole rotarywarehouse just like you mentioned.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,740
Likes: 6
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oh, sorry if I make it sound like I have no tools. My dad works for nevada power, so he pretty much has every single tool there is(just thought about that). At home though there's only the usuall saws, wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, drills, and so on. I really want to rebuild it though because it would be fun and a really good experience, and plus not many 15 year olds can rebuild an engine,
. I think I'll just ask my pops if I can borrow some tools from the company when it's time. Now I just need the rebuild kit. Does RB come with everything needed to rebuild. Thanks guys for these suggestions, and the help.
. I think I'll just ask my pops if I can borrow some tools from the company when it's time. Now I just need the rebuild kit. Does RB come with everything needed to rebuild. Thanks guys for these suggestions, and the help.
IIRC, the racing beat package comes with everything. If it doesn't you may have to get apex seals as well, but I am pretty sure they are in the package.
Now this goes without saying that if you want to upgrade to hardened stat gears and stuff like that you will be paying a lot more money for those things because they will not come in the package; however, the things that go with that are just for higher than stock revving engines.
And now that I just looked it up, yes the racing beat package comes with apex seals and springs as well.
Now this goes without saying that if you want to upgrade to hardened stat gears and stuff like that you will be paying a lot more money for those things because they will not come in the package; however, the things that go with that are just for higher than stock revving engines.
And now that I just looked it up, yes the racing beat package comes with apex seals and springs as well.





