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Streetported turbo 12a

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Old 02-14-05, 07:51 PM
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Question Streetported turbo 12a

Ive done a lot of research and a thousand phone calls....right now im trying to decide on the proper engine for my turbo setup.....as of right now i have this:

Garret t04b turbo
Tial 38mm wastegate
BAE turbo manifold
3" exhaust
Holley 600cfm 4brl carb
Holley intake manifold
Optima yellow top

now i want a good amount of horsepower but i dont know what kind of 12a i really want....right now im looking at a 12a streetported engine with a compression of 9.4:1....is this too much compression for my turbo application?....if i dont go this route would it be smarter to get a 12a with the 12a turbo rotors...a compression ratio of 8.5:1, along with the 13b oil pump for better cooling.....looking to buy here very shortly:

MSD ignition
MSD spark wires
ACT clutch/flywheel
Short shifter
Intercooler
Griffin radiator

if anyone has any advice on additional items i should buy just tell me....im trying to replace everything inside the engine bay and have it really really clean...thanks parker
Old 02-14-05, 08:28 PM
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I did'nt know there were 12a rotors with that much compression....but if they do exist, you can boost them just fine, but you'd be limited on how much boost you could run. I would'nt run more than 10psi. I would ditch the holley/blow thru setup and go fuel injection, but thats just me.
Old 02-14-05, 10:20 PM
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see i was goin to go FI....but its too expensive for the most part....trying to make this on a budget and quick b/c i want to be able to hit up HIN in Atlanta here in the near future.....also the compression of the 12a is 9.4:1....thats never changed...parker
Old 02-14-05, 10:30 PM
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I'd rather have higher compression, and lower boost than vice versa. Seems to work better on pissed-on engines that way.
Old 02-14-05, 10:36 PM
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Actually, Racing Beat tested various compression ratios with supercharged (turbocharged) applications and found that you actually LOSE peak horsepower after about 9.0:1 compression ratio. (its in their technical manual).

The nice thing about the 9.4:1 compression ratio is it allows for excellent spool up and good mid range power, but it decreases your peak horsepower because it is not as thermally efficient in its peak powerband.

Parker, you could try calling Racing Beat and some other places to see if anyone does Low compression DISHING (it would probalby require you get your assembly balanced afterwards, which is $450 though).

The 12a Turbo from Japan and Australia did indeed have 8.5:1 rotors.
Old 02-15-05, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by nopiston_racer
Ive done a lot of research and a thousand phone calls....right now im trying to decide on the proper engine for my turbo setup.....as of right now i have this:

Garret t04b turbo - Good Choice
Tial 38mm wastegate - The bigger the better
BAE turbo manifold - Nice and simple Draw through - easy to tune, no carb hat
3" exhaust - You could go with 2.5, it will help boost creep too.
Holley 600cfm 4brl carb - Perfect choice, same as the original BAE kits.
Holley intake manifold - No, You need the special BAE/Drawthrough manifold. (ebay)
Optima yellow top - Can't hurt.

now i want a good amount of horsepower but i dont know what kind of 12a i really want....right now im looking at a 12a streetported engine with a compression of 9.4:1....is this too much compression for my turbo application?....i
Streetport is good, but if your stock port 12A runs fine, then use it- don't rebuild an engine just to port it.

f i dont go this route would it be smarter to get a 12a with the 12a turbo rotors...a compression ratio of 8.5:1,
Don't waste your time with the 12A Turbo rotors.

along with the 13b oil pump for better cooling....
Make sure its actually different, and that it can bolt on.
You can always shim the stock oil pressure regulator for more pressure.

looking to buy here very shortly:

MSD ignition - Keeps the plugs from being fouled too.
MSD spark wires - Can't hurt - mostly eye candy.
ACT clutch/flywheel - Wait until you NEED it.
Short shifter - Not needed.
Intercooler - Not Needed with the BAE/Drawthrough setup.
Griffin radiator - Stock works fine.

if anyone has any advice on additional items i should buy just tell me....im trying to replace everything inside the engine bay and have it really really clean...thanks parker
The above setup will yield about 200 rwhp at about 9 PSI. You CAN run more boost, but I would recommend a water-injection system (kinda of a way to intercool a draw-through)

If you're used to a stock 12A with Bolt-ons, this will really be fast by comparison.

You can always change it over to blow-through later, if you want alot more boost.
Old 02-15-05, 11:22 PM
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thanks for all the info directfreak.....the setup is goin to be a blow-through......also what is the difference on the intakes?....can i actually not run the Holley intake manifold?.....i was told that is what im supposed to purchase.....with the BAE manifold do i have to do a draw-through?...or can i still do the blow-through.....thanks...parker
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