Street Ported? Who drives a sp w/ what carb?
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
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Same Here;
Did the RB Holley setup with Pinnaple Racing Motor and after the break-in, took my Beauti back to them and they did there magic (as usual) and this F!@#$%R kicks some serous ***.
If you ever need a new or rebuild done the right way.
Use the knowledge at Pinnaple Racing in Portland, OR.
A little spendy But Worth Every Dollar Of It.
Golden has been around a long time and he will do it right the first time. + 5 Year Warranty!!!!
sgieldon
Did the RB Holley setup with Pinnaple Racing Motor and after the break-in, took my Beauti back to them and they did there magic (as usual) and this F!@#$%R kicks some serous ***.
If you ever need a new or rebuild done the right way.
Use the knowledge at Pinnaple Racing in Portland, OR.
A little spendy But Worth Every Dollar Of It.
Golden has been around a long time and he will do it right the first time. + 5 Year Warranty!!!!
sgieldon
#7
Old [Sch|F]ool
IN a sense. I am debating whether to adapt Holley to the stock manifold, in which case the "spacers" will be molded in. The manifold is maybe 20% JB Weld at this point, what's a little more? Alternatively I'm looking at fabbing my own, although the idea of smooth port runners worries me.
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#8
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
You can scuff 'em up with a dremel tool, right?
I've got an Edelbrock 750 that might work well on a SP 13B. I'll have a spacer between it and a stock '74ish 13B manifold. I'll cut channels to connect rotors one and two, but keep primaries seperate from secondaries. It's all about the vacuum signal or whatever, right?
I've got an Edelbrock 750 that might work well on a SP 13B. I'll have a spacer between it and a stock '74ish 13B manifold. I'll cut channels to connect rotors one and two, but keep primaries seperate from secondaries. It's all about the vacuum signal or whatever, right?
#9
Old [Sch|F]ool
Right.
Since it's an Edelbrock (Carter AVS clone) you shouldn't have to worry about the secondaries opening too far. However, might still be a good idea to keep the primaries and secondaries in communication, since even though it's a speadbore, the primaries are awful big.
Since it's an Edelbrock (Carter AVS clone) you shouldn't have to worry about the secondaries opening too far. However, might still be a good idea to keep the primaries and secondaries in communication, since even though it's a speadbore, the primaries are awful big.
#10
Smile Like a Donut
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I have a mikuni....I really want to know if this carb is any good or if I should save up and get a different carb. It will be awhile on a Publix salary.....thats a grocery store for all you northerners.....god damn I hate bagging. But hey my car can smoke the store managers hehe
#12
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
Ah, I see your point. Yeah, the gasket that came with the carb is a square bore style (large square with rounded corners) instead of the Holley's four-equal-size-hole gasket.
Here is a link to the carb (I got a reman 1407 which is number 9907, but it's no longer listed, so here is the 1407) http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=EDL%2D1407
I've got a carb adaptor that's ready to be modded. It's the standard Holley pattern with Nikki and Hitachi stud and runner holes.
I think I'll connect rotors one and two through the spacer, and connect primary to secondary with the square bore gasket. What do you think?
Heh, maybe to save myself some agony (cutting aluminum hehe), maybe I'll just leave the runners completely seperate and join them with the square bore gasket instead? Will there be enough of a vacuum signal for the carb to work with only the thickness of the gasket in play?
Here is a link to the carb (I got a reman 1407 which is number 9907, but it's no longer listed, so here is the 1407) http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=EDL%2D1407
I've got a carb adaptor that's ready to be modded. It's the standard Holley pattern with Nikki and Hitachi stud and runner holes.
I think I'll connect rotors one and two through the spacer, and connect primary to secondary with the square bore gasket. What do you think?
Heh, maybe to save myself some agony (cutting aluminum hehe), maybe I'll just leave the runners completely seperate and join them with the square bore gasket instead? Will there be enough of a vacuum signal for the carb to work with only the thickness of the gasket in play?
#13
Old [Sch|F]ool
No there won't.
Make sure you're using the term "square bore" correctly. What that normally means is all four barrels are the same (or approximately the same) size. Holley 4-barrels are generally "square bore" carbs as the primaries and secondaries are usually the same or within 1/16" of each other.
You need for actual airflow to move for effective vacuum signal communication, so the gasket thickness definitely isn't gonna do the trick. Maybe try just grabbing a 1/2" open plate spacer and stuffing it between the carb and the adaptor, before you start whittling on the adaptor? I dunno how dear to you the adaptor is, and it's a lot harder to remove metal than it is to put it back, JB Weld notwithstanding!
Make sure you're using the term "square bore" correctly. What that normally means is all four barrels are the same (or approximately the same) size. Holley 4-barrels are generally "square bore" carbs as the primaries and secondaries are usually the same or within 1/16" of each other.
You need for actual airflow to move for effective vacuum signal communication, so the gasket thickness definitely isn't gonna do the trick. Maybe try just grabbing a 1/2" open plate spacer and stuffing it between the carb and the adaptor, before you start whittling on the adaptor? I dunno how dear to you the adaptor is, and it's a lot harder to remove metal than it is to put it back, JB Weld notwithstanding!
#16
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (1)
My car is an FB with a '76 REPU 13B. I have twin Weber 36DCDs on a Rotary Engineering intake. They are progressive 2 BBLs, so I basically have a very expensive, very adjustable 4 BBL carb with mechanical secondaries. Runs strong, although the only basis for comparison I have is a street-ported side-draft setup on a 13B FC, which had similar (slightly worse) performance.
#17
Old [Sch|F]ool
As i said, that will "work" but you still might want to just open it all up, since the primary barrels of the Edelbrock are awfully big.
For reference, I said I was going to use a Holley 750. However I doubt that the secondaries will open much, if at all.
For reference, I said I was going to use a Holley 750. However I doubt that the secondaries will open much, if at all.
#20
The AUTO DOCTOR
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when i had my 12a sp i ran a dellorto 48mm and i also ran a dual weber 36dcd setup. the weber setup was the best but it was a MAJOR pita to keep the carbs synced
#21
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
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Man, you guys are talking about WAY too much carb. You'll have nothing down low.
Peejay, you might as well slap a Weber on your engine. What's the point of slapping on a huge carb, only running on the primaries? -And virtually untunable compared to an equivilant sized Weber?
Ehh.
I'll kick all yer asses with a Sterling Carb!
Peejay, you might as well slap a Weber on your engine. What's the point of slapping on a huge carb, only running on the primaries? -And virtually untunable compared to an equivilant sized Weber?
Ehh.
I'll kick all yer asses with a Sterling Carb!
#25
Interstate Chop Shop CEO
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Originally posted by YapaKanichi
I have a mikuni....I really want to know if this carb is any good or if I should save up and get a different carb. It will be awhile on a Publix salary.....thats a grocery store for all you northerners.....god damn I hate bagging. But hey my car can smoke the store managers hehe
I have a mikuni....I really want to know if this carb is any good or if I should save up and get a different carb. It will be awhile on a Publix salary.....thats a grocery store for all you northerners.....god damn I hate bagging. But hey my car can smoke the store managers hehe
http://thepartstrader.polyactive.net...=101&C2ID=1000