Stock Nikki!...Yeeesh!
I run 3.25 psi and #57 primary, #60 secondary (fuel. Airbleeds are stock for primary, 63 secondary. Step bleeds are unmodded, E tubes unmodded. Mech seconds. 12.5 MPG. Gutted air horn. I took the carb a few more steps than Yaw- Not as in he could'nt do it...just that who would want to pay him $50/hr to take a die grinder to the carb horn?

 

25mpg on the highway - gotta love it

 

when i got my AR 534's a long time ago, I bought 16 new lug bolts

Also when the cap part comes off the bolt is still tapered at the end by the wheel, theres no way it will just pop off around the stud when the cap comes off

 

I have a toggle switch to shut off the fuel pump. Makes for a great theft-deterent; the car will run for about 2 minutes then die. I would tell you where its located, but then I'd have to kill you.

 

hmmm...i had a 83 that was rolled over....the rest of the body was good, roof was crushed in....so i got a wild hair, and cut the top of of it......a 83 convertible.....they are rathe sweet looking!! i turned out pretty good..i drove this car to the coast. and this guy and his wife feel in love with it and bought it!!! needless to say i had to call home to get some one to come 250 mile to oick me up!!!! i thought it was kinda funny, but the person who came to pick me up was kinda pissed at me !!!!!!

 

I figured as much, othersie tightening the lugs would cause the heads to un-spline.

I just picture a nightmare scenario where it's 2am on a road in the middle of nowhere (typical driving situation for me - be away from populated areas and well after midnight) and I get a flat and one of the heads comes off. Vise-grips would be useless, really, given the way that the wheels are shaped.

Then again, maybe that's not my prime concern.... have yet to see a Japanese car over 5-10 years old where the factory jack will work and not merely crush the hell out of the rocker seam. (I used to carry a floorjack because of this!) I felt VERY fortunate when I was able to use the jack when I had my flat this spring.

 

I had a similar switch in the '80, to kill the power to the leading ignition.

Seems the '80 ECU didn't like having all the solenoids unplugged from it. I switched to a modified carb (you would have liked it Sterling, I didn't use ANY of the screws, just used the center bolt to hold the carb top on. Just need a 14mm wrench and the top comes off! Oh yeah and no choke plate either...) Well, shut the car off and it would continue running! A small current was being bled to the ignition, and that's all the MSD needed to stay switched on. So the car would run until the carb drained dry of fuel (the fuel pump not receiving power), that would take about 5 minutes! As soon as the engine finally quit, power to the coils would cease. Very odd. So I rigged a switch in-line with the turn-on power to the MSD, when I shut the engine off I'd have to flip the switch to kill the engine.

Put the '80 carb back on and plugged its personal cluster of solenoids back in, and all was well again. (Had to put that carb on, the fuel passages in the carb top on the modified carb were just CLOGGED with rust, corrosion, and other goo, and in the process of cleaning it all out while at home one of the fuel line banjo bolts broke off, rendering it useless until I work up a workaround... that carb is in the process of being extensively modified anyway)

 

ooops typo stRange, now that's better

 

I have an idea for you sterling!!!


Put a lil' motor on the adjustment screw, tune it PERFECTLY with out the dump, then make it where when you make the exhaust dump, make it turn the screw to the exact posistion for the dump.....


Get what I am saying??


So its tuned perfectly, then when you make the exhaust dump it also turns the screw for it to be tuned just right for better performance...(would work only if you had that rpm for the dump thingy hooked up)



Well... just an idea, stupid one... but a cool one

Peace...

 

I have a momentary push button switch hooked up to the brake pedal sensor switch. When I hold the button down, my brake lights do not iluminate. I works well when you need to slow down and you dont want anyone (cops) to know about it, especially if no one else is slowing down becouse your going faster than everyone else.

 

Like the GSL-SE's.

 

It's not stupid. It's just a bit too much to go through for very little gain.
But keep thinking like that, and you'll hit an idea that will yield hi gains.

 

Well it is stupid, because the adjustment screw only adjusts idle mixture. The main metering at anything about more than a high idle is done by the jets, not by the idle circuit.

What you really need to do is convert to an air door or mass airflow meter style fuel injection, something that directly measures the amount of air going into the engine. Probably less difficult than making the carb cockpit adjustable.

 

vented headlight covers.....
headlight kit.... NO THEY ARENT DONE YET.. but now would be a GREAT tiem to get them bone and painted with the car sence i rooled it down a ******* hill into a repu ...

 

Mine really does have a flux capacitor on it!!! I run my 12a on zero point energy. it's called a "Joe Cell". Dr. Wankel originally designed the rotary to run on it. Implosion works great in rotaries!

 

Your not too far off.

 

I'll show you how it really works...

 

holy return of the dead batman

 

Well since its back from the dead... :P I made a vibration absorbing mount for my fuel pump. Very quiet now :P

 

Oh yeyeah!

http://astrosa.com/photos/265.jpg

http://astrosa.com/photos/262.jpg

Yes, it's a rotary... running on implosive energy.

 

Didn't realize how old it was until your post,

Sterling wins!, with the RPM buzzer activated Chrysler throttle body exhaust cutout.

 

I used expanding foam in the "framerails" and any other chassis voids to help with road noise and possibly stiffen things up.
I wired an ECU kill switch in a secret hidden place.......heres a hint,its in plain view......heh,heh.Cutting power to the ECU is the best because even if a thief hotwires the fuel pump and coils out of fustration,the engine will NEVER start up.

Instead of going with a full-bore bass system,I opted to purchase a high quality,self powered 10"Bazooka that fits in the storage bin behind my seat.With the pouch removed from the bin,the speaker barely squeezes in.The lid surround bolts back up over it and the lid closes just 1/4" over the speaker case.With the rollcage added over that,the speaker and my main amp for the 4"s and 6"s are absolutely un-stealable in a normal situation.
I also had my custom 3" stainless exhaust made up to eliminate the curve that goes under the middle of the car.This allowed me to cut away a lot of extraneous sheild(weight) plus now I can pull the trans without touching the exhaust system,Yay!

 

Ill need to do this to my car, pretty smart aslong as when your speeding it doesnt look to funny that your slowing down hell of alot faster then letting of the gas

 

Okay, what's with all these people BESIDES ME reviving dead posts?

Come on, people!

It's not on an RX7, but my 323 has brake vents ducted from the stock 'ram air' vent. . . .

 

I was trying to fix my A/C once and i got an idea and actually did it but could not keep it working.

basically the ducts that go into the car were the cold air flows from the ac. I took those ducts and place some that i made to shoot back into the engine... thinking it would keep my engine cooler every time i turned on the A/C... so basically the cold air would be shooting back into the engine. I placed one duct shooting straigth into the carburetor since i figured the more airflow would be better. Will it seemed to work when i turned the car on and then i revedded it up and then turn the ac on and it would rev alot faster and a louder growl... the car kept choking and dying. heh i couldnt figure out what was the problem. maybe someone can try this and actually get the car to run on the road I wonder what would happen if the car is running and then all of the sudden you shoot all this cold air into the carburetor or if it would help keep the temperatures down.