1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Stored 10 yrs. How to start it now?

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Old 01-04-05, 05:38 PM
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Stored 10 yrs. How to start it now?

I just bought a '79 with an '82 12a. The car "ran fine" when she put it in storage in her garage. (She quit driving it because the driver's window quit working.)
It's been sitting for 10 years without running. Is there anything special I should do before I attempt to start this engine?
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Old 01-04-05, 05:42 PM
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hmmmm i would say maybe put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the spark plug holes and turn the engine by hand a few times and let it sit for a few hours. I would add some MMO into your gas (4OZ). Change your oil. Ummmm you might wanna change your fuel filter, check the condition of the air filter if your going to replace it buy a k&N E-2700. Maybe change the spark plug wires depending on the condition of those ones and after the MMO trick change to some new spark plugs (NGK) Besides that make sure that the battery is charged and try firing her up.
Good luck
Old 01-04-05, 05:43 PM
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change all fluids and sparks

and try to start her if the battery its still alive
Old 01-04-05, 06:11 PM
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Also drain the fuel tank and put fresh fuel in.
Old 01-04-05, 07:03 PM
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If it's anything like mine, you'll end up cleaning the old fuel out of the carb too...
It's yucky stuff.
Old 01-04-05, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan_s_young
k&N E-2700.
Bullshit. Don't put a K&N filter on a rotary if it's free and if it's all you have. The cheap paper filters perform a million times better and are a couple bucks. :


It depends how extreme you want to get, but at least change the oil and drain the tank/put in new fuel. Sadly, my guess is the fuel has all turned into asphalt by now, unless it was nearly full. Even if it had a half tank, at least some of it has gelled and is sitting in the bottom. If it was close to empty, it will probably all be gum.

You may need new spark plugs, and it's not a bad idea to bring some with you in case. Before you fire it up, put a cap full of ATF/MMO/Gas into the carb just to get things going. Just remember, if you put any ATF/MMO/Oil directly into the engine it will smoke, so don't freak out if it puts out a big cloud of smoke.
Old 01-04-05, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by christaylor
Bullshit. Don't put a K&N filter on a rotary if it's free and if it's all you have. The cheap paper filters perform a million times better and are a couple bucks. :
Hey, Chris What's your beef with K&N ? Honestly, I've never heard anything negative until you're response. Please explain.

I don't think I can get paper for my sidedraft.
Old 01-04-05, 10:20 PM
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Like others said, change ALL the fluids before driving it. If old oil is bad for the motor, old oil is bad for the transmission. Likewise for coolant.

I'd hose the carb down with some carb cleaner too. The linkage is complicated and has lots of little bits that might've rusted together over the years. You DO NOT want to break anything on a stock carb linkage, trust me.

When you do the MMO, take the plugs out and turn the motor over by hand to get a good coating all around the insides.

Check the exhaust for obstructions too, a mouse nest would clog it up like grandpas bowels.
Old 01-04-05, 10:20 PM
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Thanks for the tips. So far, this is sounding pretty easy. Draining the tank sounds like a pain unless I can figure a way to let the fuel pump do the work for me...
Cheers!
Old 01-04-05, 10:34 PM
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Besides robbing horsepower and being more expensive, I guess there isn't anything wrong with the K&N. If it's your only option, then I guess it's not the worst... but I doubt a car that's been sitting for 10 years and owned by a broad would have a sidedraft.
Old 01-04-05, 10:34 PM
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Yeah, draining your tank is gonna be a toughie, unless they replaced the gastank when they changed the motor (not bloody likely).

I'm not sure if running old fuel through your lines is a safe bet, but, if it is, just pull the fuel lines off of the carburetor and put them in a big *** bucket (or five ) and let the fuel pump work its magic.
Old 01-05-05, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by christaylor
Besides robbing horsepower and being more expensive, I guess there isn't anything wrong with the K&N. If it's your only option, then I guess it's not the worst...

Geez man havent you seen the k&n commercials, no arguement all horsepower... Common that statement just sucks the 40-50 dollars right outta my pocket to buy one. Im confused... i Thought the hole point of the k&n filter was that it flowed more air than any of the crappy paper ones? Plus a k&n can be used over and over again
Old 01-05-05, 12:21 AM
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As far as the car goes, don't start that sucker till all the gas is drained and fluids changed. Get all seals, rubber bushings and bearings looked at. If the car has actually sat for 10 years get it towed to a good garage and have them go over everything! Your going to have vacuum leaks from dry hoses ect.

As far as K&N goes, I have had them in all my cars for the last 7 years. If you keep them well oiled and clean them every 6-12 months, depending if you drive in the winter or in very dusty conditions they work! Some will feel it more than others but I have had them in enough different cars that I am a believer. The biggest difference was in my Audi wagon, that was a heavy car with not alot of grunt. On the highway it increased my passing power quite a bit.
My father inlaws GrandPrix has one, my Protege has one, my Audi had one and my GSL-SE HAD one.

Just my opinion

Anthony
Old 01-05-05, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan_s_young
Geez man havent you seen the k&n commercials, no arguement all horsepower... Common that statement just sucks the 40-50 dollars right outta my pocket to buy one. Im confused... i Thought the hole point of the k&n filter was that it flowed more air than any of the crappy paper ones? Plus a k&n can be used over and over again
Uh, I seriously hope you don't believe everything you see on TV... especially commercials...

The dyno doesn't lie, my friend. You know what the second biggest HP increase in my car was, the first being timing? Putting a paper filter on in place of the brand new K&N. Yup, the $2 paper filter outperforms the K&N like a fat broad in a marathon. I'm not the only person to come to that conclusion -- if you hang around long enough other people will allude to that little factoid.

EDIT: Oh, and I don't give a **** about what the K&N did in other cars... I'm specifically addressing the 1st gen RX-7 since that's the only car I've had extensive (or any) dyno time on.
Old 01-05-05, 01:06 AM
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lol i was joking about the commerical... hmmm what paper filter are you using that performs better? What brand? Im interested in trying this since i don't have me a dyno to tune every mod on my car
Old 01-05-05, 01:08 AM
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how about K&n's cone filters? anything bad about them?
Old 01-05-05, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by christaylor
Bullshit. Don't put a K&N filter on a rotary if it's free and if it's all you have. The cheap paper filters perform a million times better and are a couple bucks. :.
Ive been thinking about this today... That doesnt make sense why would it matter what kind of engine the air filters on it should still flow the same amount of air... Please explain this to me theres something im not getting
Old 01-05-05, 05:09 PM
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Red face

It's not the engine. It's the intake, some cars have realy good flow from the filter back, and some have terrible flow so the car will not get a big benefit from it.

The knock against K&N is the chance that it will let bigger particles into your intake which can go into the engine. BMW will actually freak if you put a K&N in their cars. They have another brand of high flow they prefer.

There is a lot of different things that effect air flow, look it up and get some more knowledge as well as our advice. As you can see some people have a very definate opinion and that is all they will believe.

Good luck keep smiling, you will learn lots and always take everything you read here with a grain of salt.(lightly).
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