Ok, so it's already cold and dark and winter is almost here. It's the first winter I've had with my 7, and I live in a cold and snowy place in the winter. I've never owned a car nice enough to not just park it for the winter whilst I drive my crap car. I'm actually cleaning out a space in the garage for my little rx, and it goes into it's winter home the Saturday after Halloween. Am I correct in thinking I should run seafoam through the carb, (works as a fuel stab. right?) do I need MMO? if so should I take out the spark plugs and run some MMO in there, and crank by hand? I'm going to disconnect the battery, and throw a banded bag over the exhaust ends. Anything else I should do to ensure my baby is going to be running peak in spring? She's going to be untouched for about 6 months. and Since I like her so much I'll probably Change her brake pads, and buy new tires, polish the wheels, swap lights, and fix her badges. I cleaned the engine today, with some engine degrease stuff just to make sure everything under the hood was visible and ungrimy. The garage is unheated but it is a hell of a lot warmer than the outside. Any suggestions are welcome! eh, oh and when I pull her out in Spring I'll probably change brake fluid, and trans fluid, and oil and such cause God knows when the last time that was done, since I could be the second or third fourth or fifth owner! (although, probably only second cause the interior was fantastic, and it's got relative low miles on it) For all I know it may be running the same fluids for 20 years! haha prob. not

 

Look at the bottom of the screen where it is titled similar threads. There is a thread there on the subject.

 

Doc's right - thread on proper long-term storage in the Archive... I think my diatribe is included - living in Alaska means knowing how to winterize a stored vehicle is manditory.
Some brief additions to your fairly complete list (not in order!):
-seal off CARB intake as well as exhaust tips: lay a ziplock/plastic bag over opening and let air cleaner seal it in place
-I have yet to be able to get much fluid into engine via spark plug holes: chambers just too shallow and gravity works against you: pour/spray down primaries in carb. I use Penzoil Engine Fogger oil spray - 10sec per primary for the engine. MMO would be fine. Any light machine oil too. Then I dry crank (no spark) a couple of rotations with starter.
-important to (1) drain gas from carb: easiest: disconnect fuel pump (12a harness connection under rear cover/storage bin on driver side interior) and run car till it stalls (2) add fuel stabilizer to fuel in tank and fill tank to absolute BRIM - idea is no air in gas tank which promotes condensation=rust
-coat of wax a good idea
-car cover: even an old bed sheet (indoors only) keeps from getting paint scratched
DO NOT USE PLASTIC!!
-in a garage? or on a concrete floor?: park car over a sized piece of plastic: concrete floors hold a tremendous amount of moisture which is constantly 'breathing' condensation up under your car! more rust...
unheated garage is actually better than heated, btw
-fill tires to at least 35-40lbs of air to help avoid flat spots on tires
-unless the battery is a sealed-type, pull it so it doesn't vent acidic gases all winter
-engine oil should be changed BEFORE storage so the old stuff - which contains water and acids - doesn't sit in the engine creating havoc all winter long.
-FIRST THING TO DO IN THE SPRING: change fuel filter!!!
Read the Archives!
'luck
Stu Aull
80GS (now put to bed)
Alaska

 

thanks for the tips! I'll try and check Archives always, I kinda do a lazy man search, but I'll be less apathetic in the future, promise!

 

Mke sure you've got a high quality lube in the transmission and diff (I only use Redline, now) that will keep all internal parts covered with a film. I once had a transmission whine when I took it out of storage, which I ascribe to to water condensation on internal bearing surfaces improperly protected by a persistent gear lube.