Still Wont Start
06-16-05, 11:28 PM
#1
Rockn' The Galant
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Still Wont Start PLEASE HELP
Argh,
I'm getting a little agitate and I'm ready to sell this car it's making me so mad...
When it goes to start, it floods, it tries to fire but cant catch all the way, it always floods out before I can get it started and if I try undoing the fuel pump connector and cranking it it starts for a second then shuts off, even if I try plugging the fuel pump back in.
We took the intake manifold off today and messed around with the injectors and tested them, they worked fine.
I'm all out of ideas and DO NOT WANT TO SELL THE CAR, it's my baby, it's MY car because I paid my hard earned cash for it and I feel it's the only thing I have that I can truly call mine.
I'm not worried about getting it started right away because I do have a daily driver (my thunderbird) but I do want to get it started.
Does anyone have any ideas left?
The igniters are fine, I have one that fires but we swapped my dads over and it still didn't fire all the way.
The spark plugs have been fouled out a lot from it flooding in the past (usually it does start though) (NGK BR9QE's or whatever).
The spark plug wires I had to revert back to 7mm wires that came with the car because the boschs had a lot of corrosion on them and one actually broke. No name brand here.
The cap, rotor is new.
The timings been adjusted to the right spot, it was too far advanced before.
It DOES drink coolant, I have to top it off every month or so, never had the add coolant light come on and I think its from a leak though.
It runs rich on start up, a lot of bluish/blackish smoke, when it started.
The coils are the stock, did have PS20 fireball coils in there but it wouldn’t go past 6,500 rpms without hesitating so I put the stock ones in there to fix it.
I got my Thunderbird working so I parked the Mazda for a week (it was having start problems, long starts).
The TPS is out of adjustment, I have a test light coming in the mail thanks to gsl-se addict (buy one everyone!
)
Like I said I really don't want to sell the car!!!!
- Tech
I'm getting a little agitate and I'm ready to sell this car it's making me so mad...
When it goes to start, it floods, it tries to fire but cant catch all the way, it always floods out before I can get it started and if I try undoing the fuel pump connector and cranking it it starts for a second then shuts off, even if I try plugging the fuel pump back in.
We took the intake manifold off today and messed around with the injectors and tested them, they worked fine.
I'm all out of ideas and DO NOT WANT TO SELL THE CAR, it's my baby, it's MY car because I paid my hard earned cash for it and I feel it's the only thing I have that I can truly call mine.
I'm not worried about getting it started right away because I do have a daily driver (my thunderbird) but I do want to get it started.
Does anyone have any ideas left?
The igniters are fine, I have one that fires but we swapped my dads over and it still didn't fire all the way.
The spark plugs have been fouled out a lot from it flooding in the past (usually it does start though) (NGK BR9QE's or whatever).
The spark plug wires I had to revert back to 7mm wires that came with the car because the boschs had a lot of corrosion on them and one actually broke. No name brand here.
The cap, rotor is new.
The timings been adjusted to the right spot, it was too far advanced before.
It DOES drink coolant, I have to top it off every month or so, never had the add coolant light come on and I think its from a leak though.
It runs rich on start up, a lot of bluish/blackish smoke, when it started.
The coils are the stock, did have PS20 fireball coils in there but it wouldn’t go past 6,500 rpms without hesitating so I put the stock ones in there to fix it.
I got my Thunderbird working so I parked the Mazda for a week (it was having start problems, long starts).
The TPS is out of adjustment, I have a test light coming in the mail thanks to gsl-se addict (buy one everyone!
)Like I said I really don't want to sell the car!!!!
- Tech
Last edited by Tech_Greek; 06-16-05 at 11:33 PM.
06-17-05, 12:37 AM
#3
I am still not sure what is going on. The tester should probably get to you Monday. Then you'll be able to check the TPS and see if there are any error codes on the ECU. When I first learned about finding error codes on the ECU, it showed that I had a bad AFM (could be the problem in your case too). Do you have a digital multimeter? If there are no error codes and the TPS is adjusted okay, then I would go though and measure the voltages on the ECU pins. That'll tell you if something is up electrically.
If all that checks out, then it may be something mechanical (compression, leaking injectors, etc.).
Kent
If all that checks out, then it may be something mechanical (compression, leaking injectors, etc.).
Kent
06-17-05, 12:45 AM
#4
Rockn' The Galant
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I saw Long Ducks post in the other thread, GSL-SE TPS Adjusting, that the TPS tells the computer when the throttles pressed down.
Now, my logic, if the TPS is adjusted wrong it thinks the gas is held down right? If you hold the gas down while you crank it then it floods out and adds TOO much gas, which results to my problem.
I don't think the AFM is bad because the flap opens fine and there are orange numbers on the side of it (I think junkyard numbers, half of the body panels on this car have numbers written on them like it's been peiced together, I hate buying used from someone I don't know).
Now, my logic, if the TPS is adjusted wrong it thinks the gas is held down right? If you hold the gas down while you crank it then it floods out and adds TOO much gas, which results to my problem.
I don't think the AFM is bad because the flap opens fine and there are orange numbers on the side of it (I think junkyard numbers, half of the body panels on this car have numbers written on them like it's been peiced together, I hate buying used from someone I don't know).
06-17-05, 01:00 AM
#5
That could be, but I don't know if the SE ECU uses the TPS at all when cranking. Certainly wouldn't hurt to get it adjusted. I may help. As for the AFM, etc., it could be bad. Mine was bad internally (once I got the error code, I checked the AFM and the resistance between at least two of the pins were nowhere near spec). With the setup I made for you, you will just have to plug the TPS rig w/ adapter into the test plug by the ECU (under the passenger side carpet). You plug it in, turn the key to on (don't start) and if there is an error, one of the lights will start blinking. The combination of short and long period blinks will tell you what the code is.
If there are no codes, then check the ECU voltages while your are in there. That will tell you in an injector is shorting, sensor is bad, or whatever.
You may want to add a fuel pump cutoff switch as we discussed before until you get this sorted out. Don't want you to be stranded with a flooded engine and a dead battery from cranking.
If there are no codes, then check the ECU voltages while your are in there. That will tell you in an injector is shorting, sensor is bad, or whatever.
You may want to add a fuel pump cutoff switch as we discussed before until you get this sorted out. Don't want you to be stranded with a flooded engine and a dead battery from cranking.
06-17-05, 01:04 PM
#6
Rockn' The Galant
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Ok,
I unplugged the fuel pump, cranked IT STARTED! w00t
Then it died after about three seconds, plugged the fuel pump back in and it still does that 'it wants to fire, its about to fire, it just gave up again'.
- Tech
I unplugged the fuel pump, cranked IT STARTED! w00t
Then it died after about three seconds, plugged the fuel pump back in and it still does that 'it wants to fire, its about to fire, it just gave up again'.
- Tech
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