Steering problems
#1
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Steering problems
ok i can turn my steering wheel maybe 3 inches each way before the wheels respond
i can also pull my steering wheel out about 3 inches
i talked to my alignment guy and he said it might be the steering shaft
is there an easy way to take this out and weld it or anything like that? (is it two peices an something broke?)
or is it the pos recip ball box
(i hate mazda for doing this)
i can also pull my steering wheel out about 3 inches
i talked to my alignment guy and he said it might be the steering shaft
is there an easy way to take this out and weld it or anything like that? (is it two peices an something broke?)
or is it the pos recip ball box
(i hate mazda for doing this)
Last edited by dirty86; 03-09-04 at 12:50 PM.
#2
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Sound like you have a bad pitman/idler arm/tie rods AND something wrong with you steering column.
Get it checked out by someone who is knowlegable in front end/suspension.
Get it checked out by someone who is knowlegable in front end/suspension.
#3
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Worn out steering box. Can be rebuilt but from what Ive read/heard its a PITA. Requires removal of steering column etc. Do some searches and check the book there is a procedure on tightning it up. My 81 has that problem too.
#4
Airflow is my life
Your box is probably worn. www.mazspeed.com in the facts section has a write up on adjusting it. As to the fore and aft movement. They have a 2 pc shaft which is pinned with 2 plastic rivets. Its designed to collapse in an accident. DO NOT WELD THE SHAFTS TOGETHER!!!!!!! Unless you would like to be speared in a accident like a fish! The rivets shear easily, very common problem. We had a discussion on mazspeed about fixing this a while back, search over there. Theres also a webpage that details a fix.
http://www.jimrothe.com/mazda/steering.html
Read item b
Theres actually a webpage that shows this fix in detail with pics and everyting, but I cant find it. Sorry.
http://www.jimrothe.com/mazda/steering.html
Read item b
b) Do not strike the steering column shaft end with a hammer. Striking shaft will damage the bearing or collapsible shaft.
The steering column is actually a telescoping rod within the black column jacket that runs from the steering wheel to the box. The column is not much more than a half-inch thick, and it's designed to collapse in the event of an accident. The two plastic rivets that keep the telescoping column at its full length will not break easily, but a hammer blow could be enough to render useless your new $565 steering box and column.
In the event that you do break the collapsible shaft, I've heard of a few remedies. One is to remove the steering box and shaft, and then tack weld the column to the correct length. Another suggestion that I've heard was to drill a hole through the shaft where the plastic rivets are, and replace them with nylon screws. (Aftermarket license plate screws are often made of nylon or plastic.)
The best suggestion that I've heard came from Dave Barniger at KD Rotary, and it can be done with the column and steering gear in place: turn the steering wheel so that the wheels are straight ahead and position the wheel so that you have the desired clearance between the wheel and the plastic steering column covers. From the floorboard, measure 7.5" up the column, and then drill a 1/2" hole into the bottom of the steel column jacket. Then, through that hole, drill a quarter or eighth inch hole through the collapsible shaft. Install a quarter or eighth inch ALUMINUM pop rivet into the hole and you're done! The idea behind using an aluminum rivet is to retain the safety factor of the collapsible shaft. I should note that I've never done tried this repair, but it sure sounds like a great tip. Dave says he's done it probably twenty times, and it only takes 15 minutes or so.
The steering column is actually a telescoping rod within the black column jacket that runs from the steering wheel to the box. The column is not much more than a half-inch thick, and it's designed to collapse in the event of an accident. The two plastic rivets that keep the telescoping column at its full length will not break easily, but a hammer blow could be enough to render useless your new $565 steering box and column.
In the event that you do break the collapsible shaft, I've heard of a few remedies. One is to remove the steering box and shaft, and then tack weld the column to the correct length. Another suggestion that I've heard was to drill a hole through the shaft where the plastic rivets are, and replace them with nylon screws. (Aftermarket license plate screws are often made of nylon or plastic.)
The best suggestion that I've heard came from Dave Barniger at KD Rotary, and it can be done with the column and steering gear in place: turn the steering wheel so that the wheels are straight ahead and position the wheel so that you have the desired clearance between the wheel and the plastic steering column covers. From the floorboard, measure 7.5" up the column, and then drill a 1/2" hole into the bottom of the steel column jacket. Then, through that hole, drill a quarter or eighth inch hole through the collapsible shaft. Install a quarter or eighth inch ALUMINUM pop rivet into the hole and you're done! The idea behind using an aluminum rivet is to retain the safety factor of the collapsible shaft. I should note that I've never done tried this repair, but it sure sounds like a great tip. Dave says he's done it probably twenty times, and it only takes 15 minutes or so.
Theres actually a webpage that shows this fix in detail with pics and everyting, but I cant find it. Sorry.
Last edited by Rx7carl; 03-10-04 at 09:18 AM.
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