ok well my factory manual doesn come til the 21st, and i need to know how i remove the dash panels so i can remove the stock stereo. (1985 gsl w/ factory cassette/EQ)
1. to remove those factory amps in the storage bins, should i just follow those wires to the head unit and remove the entire thing? 2. as for running wires to the speakers, should i leave the stock ones in, or run new wire back while the entire carpet is out?
3. that factory fader thing, can i just yank that out while im at it, including those wires and everything all the way to wherever they go?

i guess getting flooded and having to remove my interior was good in the fact that now i can rip out whatever wires i want with ease. thanks for reading all the way to the end

gamble

 

The GSL had a pretty good setup for a stock system. Mine was already trashed before I got the car. I plan on reusing the amps as they accept a line input signal.

To remove the head unit, you gotta first pick up the trim around the edges of the shifter. It just snaps in, pick up the back edge first. Next, is the trim that surrounds the head unit. There are two screws at the bottom, under the ash tray, so you'll have to pull the ash tray too. Pull off the ***** for the heat and fan. Unscrew those two nuts. The trim should now come off. (Be careful as the trim does get caught on the threads where the two nuts were.)

Stereo is held in by screws on the side.

Amp removal is straight forward and it'd probably be best to run your own wiring. Keep in mind you might wanna put the stock system back in sometime later for some reason or you may wanna sell the stock system, so keep what you can in good condition and cut up as few wires as possible.

Good luck

 

Also the bulbs for the climate control ***** are in the center piece. Be careful not to break the wires pulling the center trim out.

 

good one! also when you put it all back together, before you put the nuts and screws on, test to make sure all the lights work, I've had one fall out a couple times and then have to pull it all back out again

 

And be sure ,before you start, to disconnect the ground battery
terminal on the battery

 

ok yeah i already know to disconnect the battery before doing anything, common sense stuff. i was wondering if any one knew exactly which wires i need to be taking out, and maybe even if the factory wires running to the speakers could just be used again, i dont know if those goto the amp or what. ive been busy doin plumbing work, my shower broke and my moms gettin all whiny about it even though i've been workin all day on the shower, when i shoulda been workin on my car, which i havent touched yet.
ack just venting over here, my poor car needs me.
gamble

 

Better take care of Mom first, Gamble. You don't want to have to live in your RX-7. I'd just leave the factory stereo wiring there, tap into it for power, then run new speaker wiring. If you want to run a battery cable while the carpet's out, call me. I've got an extra cable in my car, just needs to be removed. You may have it if you want it.

Kerry

 

man i dont know how id live in my rex. no room at all. where would my fish tank go? yeah anyways kerry me and you should get together sometime over the holiday break. you can cop a mold of that stereo bracket i have while we're at it. oh yeah everybody ill be sure and let you know when i leave so you can jack all my stuff. my moneys in the top right hand drawer hehe just kidding.
yeah ive been trying this shower repair all day, its 1 in the mornin now, its no fun. soldering is wayyy tougher than it looks. the new propain torch sure is fun though, i kinda slipped and charred some stuff doh.
just let me know what all parts i'll need to do it(battery relocation) and i'll go grab em. once again kerry to the rescue.
thanks a bunch
gamble

 

The key is to get the pipes hot and then use the hot pipe to melt the solder, not to use the flame to melt the solder and paint it on.

Be sure you have clean pipe surfaces, use fine grade sand paper to make em all nice and shiny like. Use flux too; It's a paste that cleans oxidation off the pipes when it burns. Keep the fire on the bottom of the pipe and touch the solder to the top. It'll flow around. Takes some practice, but once you do a few, I'm sure you'll get it down.

 

yeah thats what ive been tryin to do, flux keepin it clean, etc. but im a first timer so ive had to learn as i go. i get better each time so i guess i'll just keep on tryin.

 

Exactly man. Just keep in mind solder won't stick to dirt.

I'm goin in with three other guys on a house sometime next summer hopefully. To keep costs down, it's gonna be a fixer upper, so I'm gonna be doin the same basic thing. Electircal, telecom, plumbing, HVAC, insulation, drywall, painting. Hell I'll do some of it all. Just no structural work. That gets dangerous.

All this prefab crap takes all the fun out of it. That's why we have 1st gens and don't take em to the shop. It's fun to get dirty. :p

 

i've done just about everything else there is to do, but this is by far the toughest. done plumbing before and it was easy, but ive never had to solder til now cept on electrical stuff. today ive been doin all my homework and havent had a chance to get back to it. the only thing less fun than house work is homework.

 

2x4's at 16" O.C.
replace load bearing walls with beams
carry loads to the foundation
no problem

right on-

 

hey brownmound, youre from austin, sweet, whatre you runnin?

 

Well, yeah.. but not too much of it or I might as well build my own house from the ground up... Hmmm

I have just lowered my standards... No foundation work or masonry.

 

Pele-let me know if you need structural advice. It's what I do.
Gamble - yeah Austin. stock GSL-SE. Brown. Austin club meets once a month.


Right on

 

what day of the month?

 

I bought a harness kit at Best Buy, made it nice any easy to replace the stock radio didn’t have to cut or splice into the original harness. Plus it was cheep, don’t remember exact $ but it was around $10.00.

 

yeah those harnesses are cool, deffinately the easy way out if i decide to use the stock wires and all

 

first wednesday of each month
Rudy's BBQ 183 North
around 7pm
mostly 3rd gens, and some 2nds, and I'm normally the only 1st.

 

nice. i'll see if i can be there in december

 

The solder you use makes a lot of difference. The type we used on your radiator was lead-free. When I went to fix the other radiator on my list, I used the 60/40 (or was it 40/60?) regular solder. It flows MUCH nicer, also at a lower temp.

Kerry

 

If you can find it, liquid flux is much better then paste,and yes
clean surfaces to be soldered.don't go crazy with the flux,just
where you need it, and remember the solder will only go to
where to flux is,,,these days 50/50 , 60/40 , lead free, solders
make a difference,for copper lead free

 

let there be no leaks! haha it works now, cant wait to take a shower, baths are tough when youre twice as long as the tub hehe. note to self, be rich and pay someone else to do plumbing, or pay em to teach you how to do it right. thanks guys, both for the stereo removal answers and also for helping me take a shower and not smell funny
gamble
*takes a wiff of the pits*
ahhhhhh much better