Andrew7dg

So trying to do some searching but maybe a post will help me be more specific.

Car has been sitting for the last 9 years maybe even 10 years. The person was trying to rebuild the Nikki Carb which I assume is all apart now.

Gas tank is out of the car also to be cleaned and fresh fuel will be supplied.

my first question, is the Nikki carbs that hard to rebuild with new seals? I usually play with fuel injection so carbs are a little new to me.

the bigger question is, What things can I do to make sure that I won't damage the engine on the first start up? The motor has been sitting for 10 years. I am assuming that the engine oil is pretty crummy and need to be changed. On a piston car we shot a little lubricant down each cylinder and cranked it by hand a couple of times before we fired it off. Is it the same way?

Or because it has been sitting for 10 years do you think the engine needs a rebuild? The motor doesn't have that many miles on it. I believe under 100,000

thank you for your time

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

The carb is easily rebuildable. Plenty of info here. I bought a 5 or 6 year sitting '85 last spring, changed the oil, poured a little Marvel Mystery oil in the carb throats, and turned the motor, plugs removed. Over the course of a few days I cranked it a few times each day, and then fired her up. She ran, but needed a carb rebuild.

PreviouslyPlastic

iTrader: (1)

From what I understand you should literally turn the motor (by hand) to make sure it isn't seized up from carbon or what not. This way your starter won't break anything.

Also, coming from EFI as well, the carb isn't hard to rebuild at all; you just have to make sure everything is very organized. There are a lot of parts that can be installed in the wrong place.
When I did mine I took pictures of it as it came apart.

Cheers!
Kam

clykins

iTrader: (1)

A little oil down the "cylinders" would be good. Keep an eye on oil pressure when starting up. Keep the RPM's down while she warms up. Some guys run some seafoam through to help clean things out.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

not hard at all if you're good with puzzles, the rebuild kit should come with a good schematic. also, there is some good support here for any questions that come up during the rebuild. my only concern at this point would be making sure everything is there since you mentioned the previous owner already pulled it apart. if either of you is unsure about missing parts, you might just want to see if you can pick up a complete carb from a local or a yard.

you'll obviously want all new fluids (oil and antifreeze). you'll probably want to change rubber hoses as well and if you don't have the beehive oil cooler, then you'll want to check the integrity of your oil lines. flush the cooling system before putting the new stuff in, change the thermostat and check the radiator for rot, holes, etc. check the ignition components and change if anything is suspect. if it fires you'll want to tune it up before driving it though.

when it comes time for fire, the two big things will be putting oil in the chambers and rotating by hand, and building oil pressure before actually trying to fire it.

mileage does not automatically warrant a rebuild. see what's what first, then go from there.

Nicholas P.

iTrader: (1)

I just got mine running two months ago. It sat since 2004. I still have to go get the inspection sticker for 2013, cops just look at my car and inspection sticker and stare in awe. My engine has 201,000 on it. spent 3 months straight working on my car. Rust is finally out of my gas tank, ( after cleaning 3x) and my Nikki has been cleaned out by me atleast once every two weeks since. I'm the only guy who has mesh screens that get clogged also lol. Make damn sure, that there are no vacuum leaks. I had a carb spacer that cracked and it gave me hell for a month. The car would not idle. Glowed red etc etc. it will take time and patience but don't give up. And rock auto.com is a great place to buy cheap brakes air filter. Everything to get you going before you buy good parts.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Pull the coils and turn the engine with the stater... I don't think you'll build much of any oil pressure turning by hand.

Deffinetly lube the combustion area. IF it was moth balled properly without a carb then it had rags or tape over the intake ports. If not fingers crossed a dirt diver or somthing didn't make a home in there.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

In addition to some fine ideas above,
I would-
-pour 1/4 can of SEAFOAM into each rotor chamber via carb secondaries (so, 1/2 a can total)
-hand spin it to get SF into all 3 chambers
-let sit for a couple of days to let the SF do its work
(It helps: 1: decarboning the engine - this avoids dreaded carbon lock that can ruin your start-up day from deposits, and 2: it will help pop up apex seals that may have compressed/stuck into the rotors -carbon again -over time and leaving low compression for start up - or, worse, a no start)
-change your FUEL FILTER - under rear left in front of rear wheel. $3 part at any auto parts store. Buy 2.
you can count on the fact gas/skunge/residue from the fuel tank WILL clog this up quickly. Not unusual to have to pull and flush a fuel tank that has sat this long - and replace various (3, 4) rubber hoses that lead off it. would have a fuel-guage-float GASKET handy as original will be shot when you pull the tank! Pro Rad shops will do a proper chem dunk for under $100 that will strip out the insides of the tank
-after 2 day SEAFOAM soak - pull a plug in each chamber and dry-crank (no spark) the engine to clear the SF.
-re-install plugs
-pour 4 oz of engine oil into each chamber, per SF method.
-dry crank again to spread oil around.
-you might need to clean the plugs prior to lighting the engine up tho mine (after 7 mo winter sleeps) has never been a problem.

Assuming you have done due-diligence in checking coolant, hoses conditions, etc. and cleaned the battery ends, checked to be sure OTHER end of battery cables (at starter) are clean, good grounds (crappy cables cause all sorts of non/poor start issues), give it a go. Battery needs to be _strong_!!!!!
Don't be afraid to get help and try a TOW-start. Esp handy if engine is a bit low on compression.

Good luck.

Stu Aull
80SA
Alaska

nickbroker

iTrader: (2)

Maybee some MMO really helped for me!