jweather73

This will be long, so please bear with me...

I'm pretty sure the header installation/starting problem is coincidental, but what may NOT be coincidental is when I did all this, I also removed and blocked off the ACV port and the Air Pump ports off the side of the engine... but during the process of removing the ACV and clipping the wires, I shorted out a wire against the engine and it blew the fuse that controlled my fuel pump and whatever else that fuse controls.

okie dokie... here goes....

I think this problem is a combination of electricical and perhaps a bad starter solenoid, but who knows... the reason why I think that is this....

The problem is when I start my car, I it takes a while to start... (yes, I've already checked the "starting problems" thread in the FAQ sticky). Sometimes it sounds like the starter turns, but the crank/gear thing (whatever it's called) doesn't shoot out... it just spins... again, I have NOT confirmed this, but it sounds like it only sometimes...

Now, to defeat that theory, it will intermittently do this DURING the actual cranking... It'll be trying to turn over then all the sudden make this horrible screeching sound and STOP turning over. Now, I know what you're thinking, but it's NOT the same sound as my '82 had when there were missing teeth on the flywheel... I'm almost positive the problem is not that because... well, keep reading....

Ok, so let's say that eventually it does start (and when it's cold, it will not start without the choke engaged)... so what happens is (again, intermittently) is that the radio will NOT work, the A/C (back when it was working) would not turn on (neither the compressor nor the blower) and the e-brake light would stay stuck on...that's why I think it's something electrical.

My first thought is to check the flywheel (just to make sure there are no missing teeth though that wouldn't exactly solve the electrical issue) and have the starter/solenoid tested and perhaps replaced... if that's bad then that MIGHT be causing some kind of electrical/shorting issue.

Sorry for this being so long, but I hope someone may have an idea...

Thanks "y'all"

numan2

sounds like the starter drive is bad it has a 1 way clutch in it and after age sets in the springs take a dump and it freewheels both ways. As I see it you have 2 options 1) replace the starter or 2) replace the drive I can tell you the drive is way cheaper than the whole starter.
BTW miine did the same thing and the drive cured it

jweather73

By "drive" I assume you mean the solenoid?

numan2

no the drive is the part on the starter that engages the teeth on the flywheel. if you have the starter out just grab the gear and see if it spins both ways if it is kinda hard to turn 1 way and almost impossible to turn the other way then the clutch is holding somewhat. If it turns really easy both ways then it's bad. The clutch in the drive is so when cranking the clutch holds and turns the engine but once the engine starts then the clutch freewheels so it doesn't backdrive the starter.

lovintha7

It wouldn't backdrive the starter, it would make is spin faster, making it almost like an alternator.

Anyways, I just bought a starter from Mazda for $65. Not bad in my opinion for OEM. Definitely, the starter is bad.

Secondly, on the electrical issues, you might have played Mr. BBQ on a wire or 2, and the 2 ends make contact intermittently. But sounds like you have some electrical gremlins now living in your 7.

Reminder: ALWAYS disconnect the battery BEFORE you do ANY kind of work.

jweather73

Funny how sometimes the smallest/quickest ways to AVOID a problem will often elude us...