I realize that there are a ton of “won’t start” threads, but I couldn’t find one to address my problem. My 85 GS 12A won’t start. While riding, the car just quit. I turn the key and get nothing. No click, no noise at all. The dash lights come on and the headlights still work. The battery is good. The starter is a 2yrs old.

 

Read up.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=162062

Doesn't matter how old the starter is. Some are bad right out of the factory.

I'd start with connections and ignition switch first though.

The starter solenoid on your car is attached directly to the starter motor. It is on the driver's side of the car. Lift it up and you'll see.

Unfortunately, it's directly under the oil filter, so spilled oil may have messed up a connection. The small wire, (Trigger from the ignition switch) is just a spade lug and can come off easily. Be sure it's all connected securely.

 

I'd start at the starter and the little box shape clip that's supposed to be attached to the starter solenoid...

 

Thanks Pele!!

 

I'm new at this, so bear with me. To test the solenoid, would I need to jack the car?

 

I'd say your best bet is to remove the starter and have it tested at an auto parts store. But if you'd like to test it at home here's how.

MAKE SURE THE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL!!!!! USE JACK STANDS WHEN UNDER THE CAR!!!!! SET THE E-BRAKE AND CHOCK THE WHEELS!!!!! I really don't wanna hear about you getting hurt while trying this.

Check out my crude drawing in Paint.

You want to use a small piece of wire to jump between the one that goes to the positive of the battery, to the small terminal. In my drawing, it's Red to Blue...

Do not accidentally contact the body of the car, the engine, any other wires, or any other metallic object. Doing so could create lots of sparks and a fire.

When you create this connection, it would be like you turned the key, the starter should crank over... If it does not remove the starter. If it does, check your ignition switch.

 

If it died while you where driving, I would check the fuses and fusible links first.

 

Damnit.. It wont let me post pics... Lemmie e-mail it to you. I'd like to attach it to the book too.

 

Thanks all for the advice. I'm on my way to test the starter now!

 

Check the ground. Put a voltmeter on the negative battery terminal and the chassis ground: should be less than a half volt.

B

 

I agree. The starter may be bad, but logically, a broken starter didn't make the engine die. Pull every fuse out of the fuse-block individually and check em. Some of them can be blown and the car will still operate fine (I dont think there's even a fuse in my hazard light slot), but there will be afew you need. Also, check the fusible links next, I've heard horror stories about those...

After checking all that, then you should look at the starter. Seems like a huge coincidence that your engine would die the very time you started your car and broke the starter, though. Maybe I'm missing something.

 

got my vote too, been there done that

 

got my vote too, been there done that,,good luck..

OOPPS, SORRY

 

If the dash lights come on, then that means the "Gauge" fuse is getting power, and that means the main fusible link is good, doesn't it?

Seems like I should read a little more... I didn't register the part where it quit while running...

 

if I remember right from previous threads on this, there are three fusibile links to deal with. or maybe I'm pulling that number out of nowhere, the forum is slow tonight and searching would take a million years

if it's not one of the fusibile links, then you've got a bunch of fuses in the fuse block to look over, and then I'd check out the starter

electrical problems

 

With these 20 year old cars it's not unusual to have corroded contacts one place or another. One of the prongs in my fusebox completely corroded out, so I went to the junkyard and cannibalized the fuse box of a car there. Fortunately, the fusebox prongs can be replaced in small groups so you don't have to replace the whole box, which is a big task. I still have to find the corroded connection in the vent fan circuit. I also have a corroded contact somewhere in the antenna power lead. Sometimes you can cleanup contacts by spraying them with "Contact Cleaner" from an electronics store.

It helps to find problems if you have a little $15 voltmeter, either digital or analog.

Sometimes the prongs of the fuses are covered with corrosion. The easiest thing is to just replace them, otherwise clean the prongs with emory cloth or a nail file (you can un-retire your points file, if you have one at the bottom of the toolbox).

If the battery ground is corroded you get weird results as the current tries to complete the circuit thru other devices. If the situation looks really weird, it is probably a lifted ground somewhere.

B

 

Try just removing the battery cables, cleaning them, and putting them back on. If you don't have anti-corrosion grease on there, you can get a layer of oxidation between the battery terminal and the connector. This has happened to me a few times with my TII, and usually there's enough contact area to turn on lights, etc, but not to start the engine. Then again, usually an alternator will keep the engine running all by itself (no battery needed ), so maybe something's up with the charging circuit as well?

Good luck
Manolis

 

Guys, thanks for all the replies. Mar3 called it right. The little box shape clip that's supposed to be attached to the starter solenoid somehow worked itself loose. I simply pushed it back and it started.

Thanks again.

 

I forgot to hook that up on my car after I pulled and re-installed the engine once... I'm like... damn, now I have to pull start it! Hooked it up to my friend's '86 Subaru GL, pulled it, drove it home, checked the connections on the starter, figured out it was that connector, and I was done