jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

Ok, so cars an 83 gs. straight piped from exhaust manifold (I have a RB header but haven't put it on yet) to stock rusted out muffler, 2gcdfis with out the 2g igniter. I have the igniter but am not sure about the TT I've read I'm still confused on what it is, what it does. ect. S4 alt. that's about all that's not stock that has anything to do with anything. also compression is 100 psi front 110 psi rear

Most of the time my car starts quick without hesitation. but sometimes I turn the key and loose all power. I have to pull the ground and put it back on and fires right up. I'm thinking new battery cables should fix this, but any ideas on what to look at would be appreciated.

today I went start it but it hesitates backfires then started never happened before. I reved the engine a bit turned it off and tryed again same thing. But since has stopped. What could this be???

sometimes I turn the key and the starter makes that grinding noise like when you try and start a car thats already on. this is rare, but happened like 3 times in a row today. I'm thinking solenoid???

Kentetsu

Battery cables will probably solve every problem you have, other than your athlete's foot.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

I've heard peeing on your feet clears athletes foot up. any confirmation I don't want to give myself a golden shower for nothing.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

no, that's if ur stung by a jellyfish.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

bump, Can some one clear up this TT question for me. I need a picture or somthing. and a explanation on what it is and does.

Kentetsu

The transistor trick is a little black box designed by GSL-SE addict. He is not currently building any more, but the plans to make your own are somewhere around here. What it does is translate the signal from the 1st gen ignitor into something recognizable by the 2nd gen ignitor. This allows the spark to be generated by the 2nd gen ignitor which produces a much stronger spark. Horsepower gains are incredible with this system, but they have a tendency to burn up 2nd gen ignitors every now and then. There is a huge (like 40 page) thread on this subject, which includes all of the testing we did...

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jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

so, I haven't bought new terminals yet, I will this week. but here's an update. until yesterday, I haven't had any problems. but now my battery's toast! It was out of nowhere. I drove it to my moms worked on her car got it running again. went to leave and my car wasn't cranking over very well. So I got a jump and it starts and runs fine. I drove it home turned it off, and tried to restart it, same thing. car runs fine but voltage dips when I use anything electrical. I just got back from working all day, so I haven't had a chance to look at it and see whats up. I'm going to see if the battery's out of water, or low.

Any thing else I should look at?

When I bought the car there was some funky wiring under the dash that was causing some issues, but I got all that fixed and taken care of. That's why I'm thinking it might not even be the battery and some things just running it dead and not allowing the alt to charge it. Theres nothing obvious, and I think my alt's still good, or I wouldn't be able to keep it running. right?

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

forgot to mention, before this happened my seven was fairly gutsy, It wasn't super fast or any thing but If I kicked my clutch in 3rd, it throw it sideways. Now I doubt it could do it in 1st. I'm lacking quite a bit of power. I'm hoping its just because the alternators working so hard to power the car.

Kentetsu

Have the alternator tested. I would still recommend replacing both battery cables...

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

1. replace battery cables, clean battery posts
2. charge and test battery
3. have alt tested

The running problems may be due to you leading ignitor cutting out (may be on its way out, battery voltage may be too low, or there is some wiring problem somewhere). Check for spark on all plugs.

Have you noticed the battery voltage during running? Is it reading around 12v or less (means alt not charging)? Get the battery/alt problem sorted out 1st and then move on from there. A bad alt will not directly cause a loss in power. The most that the alt could load the engine (at max charging ability) is less than 1.5 HP. However, a dead alt (with the eventually dead battery) could cause power loss by not having the juice needed to properly fire the coils.

Also, bad cables/poor connections can cause the "clicking" from the solenoid that you have been getting.

A loss of leading ignition will cause a major power loss and poor running (backfire, hesitation, etc.).

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

So, if my leading ignition is cutting out, can I swap the ignitors around and use the trailing? Just until I can find a J-109?

Car runs the same with only the leading on, I know this because I bet my step dad 10 bucks I could run my car without the cap and rotor on. But it may have started after that. I only noticed when I started to try and get around some slow car, and it didn't have the umph.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Correct. You could swap ignitors if it is your leading ignitor going out, but I would still fix the charging/starting issue 1st. Without trailing, you will lose the tach signal, though. If your car was an 84-85, then you couldn't just run without trailing as those cars need trailing to activate the fuel pump relay (this can be bypassed, but it is an extra step). Since your car is an '83, there is no problem in running leading only (besides losing the tach).

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

Ok, so here's an update. Bought some new terminals, but not cables yet. I can have my GF's dad make me some wires. Can anyone tell me what lengths I will need? Or what else do I need to do a battery relocation? just some longer battery leads, and the positive wire to the alt.

also Battery had a dead cell, and the alternator was only putting out 11 volts. So that's all fixed now. new battery, back to the stock alt.

also How can I test my leading igniters? I'm getting spark, but it may be on limp mode. IDK?

Kentetsu

I believe the ignitors either work, or they don't. I've never heard of a limp mode in reference to these....

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

you COULD clean up your grounds and connections on your ignitors (the round brass holes that the screws go through) sometimes they'll get dirty and kinda fail lol. make sure you put some dyelectric grease on the back or you'll burn them up ask me how i know.

as far as the starting issue, go ahead and install the new terminals on your old wires while the new ones are being made, i used to have that problem and new terminals fixed it, i wasn't getting a nice tight grip.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

I read it in a conversation between you and Jeff20B. But it was current limiting mode, not limp mode.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Ignitors going into current limiting mode will not hurt performance or anything. It is in fact typical for these to enter current limiting mode for a duration during each spark event. What happens is that the coil saturates with charge and reaches a point where it cannot really store more energy. At this point, the ignitor goes into current limiting mode (increases the voltage at coil (-) a bit). This is to control the current flow (say 6 or 7 amps) because if the coil is not taking any more charge, the energy has to go somewhere and in this case is becomes heat in the ignitor. Without the limiting mode, the ignitor would overheat and burnup.

If you are getting spark, the ignitors are fine. You can clean them up and put new heatsink grease on the back of them to keep them running cool. Other than that, just leave them the way the are unless you develop some spark problems. Take care of the battery cables first. One thing at a time. If you are still having issues, we can then look into the other problems further.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

well every thing seems to be working how it was before. I've already put on the terminals, replaced the battery, and put the stock alt back in. my goal this week is solid motor mounts, and put my header in. maybe give this TT a try. I just was unsure of the igniters. but I'm getting a solid spark.

the engine mounts my gf dad made me way a ton (made of 4140 hardened steel), looks like I'll have to ditch the smog pump to compensate.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Hockey pucks work better. I once tried some hardnened steel stack of washers and it was unpleasant.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

good idea. we were saying how they look like steel hockey pucks. I'm gonna give these a try because he took the time and 50 dollars of steel to make this for me. He even tapered the center and sides. I would of just cut them and drilled them and let them be. Probably would of used a cheaper material also.