Clearkut

iTrader: (1)

the 85 GSL project is starting to look better as to day I started the 12a rebuild for the first time, but I do not get any oil pressure, I started with an ops from a spare engine, only 60 k but craped out, five to ten seconds after start up and no sign of oil pressure, so to check if it was getting oil I losened the oil filter off and dripped a bunck of oil down my nicely painted new engine, so then I switched back to the ops that just came off my previous engine witch always showed reasonable readings in the old engine, 5-10 s run time but still no pressure reading from guage, do I need a new ops or what else could be going wrong?

on a nother note, anyone using a malroy comp 110, is it to much because the 140 is far to big (any one need a malroy comp 140 tooooo much pressure for my setup)what malroys do people use on our cars ?

Rogue_Wulff

You could have a bad connection at the OPS, a bad gauge, broken wire Ect...
On the other hand, it may could be that you didn't let it run quite long enough for the oil pressure to come up.
This is assuming that there is nothing inside the engine that was done incorrectly, as this is another possibility.

As for the fuel pump, have you installed a fuel pressure regulator? You ask if it's too much for your system, yet give no details about your system.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

actually it's a good idea to spin the engine over to get an indication of oil pressure BEFORE allowing it to start. what i did, and realized before trying to start my engine, was when making the oil pickup gasket i didn't cut the hole in the center of the gasket. the reason for having to make the gasket was because my kit didn't come with one. to test to see if ur getting oil circulation, remove the ops, disconnect the coils and spin the engine over and watch for oil to squirt out the ops hole. will only take a couple revolutions.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

ya you will have to post more about your carb setup for that fuel pump ... i'm using a 140 mallory without pressure regulator to my holley 465 with no big problems .. its running a little rich but thats about it.

Clearkut

iTrader: (1)

the fuel system is a 48 IDA with a bypass regulator malroy 4309 i think (4/4.5 psi recomended for carb)
on the oil note I too cut my own gasket and i removed the oil filter and did find oil so I belive this means I did cut the pick up hole, I am going to go over the wireing again today though. how long would be reasonable to let it run before I could see an oil pressure reading, i used to see oil pressure just after start up on my old engine.

JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

There is a little o-ring behind the front cover, that if it isn't placed you loose all oil pressure....

Anyhow till you figure this out don't drive at all.

Clearkut

iTrader: (1)

definatly not going to drive I dont even want to start it again until I have a good Idea of whats going wrong, is there any way of testing the ops? Were about behind the front cover is that little oring, that would be typically done with a rebuild if I received the engine with the front cover on right? is there any way to check this out with out taking it all apart?

Rogue_Wulff

The oring mentioned, goes between the front cover and the front housing. The only way to check it, is removing the front cover. It seals the passage that the oil flows thru, on it's way to the oil cooler hose. If the engine was built by someone else, and you recieved it with the front cover already in place, then the builder *should* have sealed it correctly.
I don't know of an accurate way to test a OPS. Check the wire that attaches to the OPS for power. It should have power coming to it, as the OPS is just a pressure-based ground. Speaking of that, are you using a thread sealer on the OPS? Some thread sealers will not allow the OPS to properly ground.

Clearkut

iTrader: (1)

no thread sealer as I thought it might not ground properly , I made a fitting to attatch the OPS to a compressor line with a regulated psi, the guage in the car read accurate readings at 20& 60 psi with key in on position, and this would probably indicate that its the oring, or could the fact that the engine is painted be causing it to not ground or ground insufficiently?

Rogue_Wulff

Paint could be causing the issue, but only if there is a good coat inside the threads.
You could have a problem with the oring, or it could be a faulty oil pressure regulator. It might be time to give the engine builder a call, and find out what they want you to do from here.

Clearkut

iTrader: (1)

unfortunatly that is what I was thinking of doing next but kind of hoping that it didnt come down to that, thanks for the advice and have a better day than I am.

PT Ray

You can check the sending unit using a reistance check, at least that'swhat I did. I had swapped over an engine in a car with a bad pressure guage and went into a slight panic. I checked the unit by gounding one of the leads of the multimeter to the enginge block and put the other where the connector attaches. I was relieved to see a decrease in resistance as the revs increased, I had oil pressure.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

One last test, then call the builder. Remove the ops and crank the engine. If you make a mess, it's the ops, opg or grounding. Did you reconnect the capitor for the ops?

My first build, I forgot the o-ring between the front cover and iron. 6 hours of run time chewed up the best set of 4 bearings I had and the e-shaft. Most of that time was idling to 2k rpm in the shop. Good thing I concidered it a 'practice' build.

Clearkut

iTrader: (1)

I just got back from the final test(hand held guage), when I switched the OPS with one from a parts car I made quite a mess on the floor but still no oil pressure, I then cut a rusty old OPS up to make an adaptor to an oil test guage, a short run and only 5 psi or less @ 1200rpm on a hand held pressure guage. I emailed the builder with details and will call tomorrow as the engine is warrantied I just dont want to go through the trouble of finding time to take it all out, while working 50/60 hour work weeks.

OPS works I hooked it up to my compressor and started at 20 psi and gradually increased air pressure to 60psi with appropriate guage response to pressure with key in on position, this would probably rule out the OPS, and all electrical stuff right?

Rogue_Wulff

The test you performed on the OPS seems to indicate it is fine.
The test you did with the manual gauge confirms it is something inside the engine. Time to let the builder make the call on what to do.
It could be oil pump, oil pressure regulator, or that o-ring. I'm sure there are a couple other items that could be the cause, but they all require pulling the engine.

Clearkut

iTrader: (1)

builder was contacted, seem to think that I just need to crank it over w/o ignition for a bit while watching for pressure I sure hope it builds soon, any way out to the g-rage for me for now
thanks to all for the input yet another learning experience that I didnt really want to go through at this point but all I can do is cross my fingures and hopr the builder is right