Anytime the car is cold / sits overnight when I start to drive it it will stall or want to stall. If I just let the car idle by itself it will idle fine but if I rev it a little and let off the gas it stalls. I always let the car warm up a little in the morning and for some reason it doesn't seem to matter a whole lot if I take it out cold with minimal warm up it will do the same as if I let it warm up to operating temp... but it seems to go away after I beat on it a little, aka a few 7K runs through all the gears..

So this is how I goto work in the morning... Warm up car, drive 2 blocks, stall, restart, drive 2 blocks, stall, restart, drive 2 blocks, stall, restart, drive 2 blocks running it up to 7K though 3rd gear, drive 2 blocks running it up to 7K though 3rd gear, drive the rest of the way to work just fine.

What would you say? Carb rebuild? Or maybe a new carb..?

 

Nothing? Maybe I should push the car off a cliff then?

 

check for vac leaks

 

check the timing this is what i was having a problem with in my 79. Now i have to check timign every month cause of the standard ignition.

 

There is a way to make the '79 system easy and maintenance free...





GET RID OF IT!!!!!!

Seriously dude, grab a 81-85 12A dizzy and two coils from a wrecked 7 and go hard. In about an hour, you'll never have to worry about dwell, condensors, points ever again.

This link has all the info you need:

www.mazspeed.com/ignitionswap.html

As for the topic of the thread, I would imagine that there is a problem with vaccuum leak somewhere as wwilliam54 pointed out. If your idle compensator valve isn't working, your car could display symptoms like you described. The hose going to my idle compensator split and my car did exactly the same thing. Also check the Anti-Afterburn valve.

 

Maybe warm it up a litttle bit longer. Especialy if it's exposed at night. Say, at least 7 minutes at idling. Then keep the revs down below 3000 until you've driven it for say 5 minutes when things start running at normal temp