ioTus

iTrader: (5)

Fascinating. Now one thing I'm concerned about in the suspension setup is wheel clearance.

I plan to eventually run an 8.25" or 8" wide rim, either 205's or 195's for tires. I've heard talk of 5" springs, but also smaller - was it 3", 2.5"? Whats the story with that? One goal with the coilovers is to gain more usable area in the wheel well.

flight_of_pain

Standard coilover springs are 2.5", for the front this is smaller than stock and in a lot of cases gives you more inner clearance(if you ran them really low on the strut tube it could give you less I guess). The rear spring clearance is not a problem, you would hit all sorts of other things first (lower 4link arms, shock, ect). If you do a bit of searching there are tons of threads with pictures of inner wheel clearance vs coilover springs(typically GC or RE-S).

Isaac

neektar

iTrader: (2)

I'm working on a write-up for "true" rear coilover suspension based on the information I gathered in this thread, using 100% "off the shelf" parts. I'm waiting on the last of my parts (top hats) before I order eibach springs to replace the ebay ones. Here's a quick pic. click for album.

http://imgur.com/a/SUBPo

Total cost is <$250 a set. Variable depending on the quality of shock you intend to use.

flight_of_pain

If you are going to do it that way, it is fairly easy to piece together.

Shocks: $50-$$$$ (depending on what you want)

Shaft collars: $12-15 ea (for whatever diameter you need to match your shocks)


2"-Double Split Shaft Collar | 2SC-200


Ebay coilover adjusters/perches: $50 (for 4x, might as well do the fronts too!)

already linked the ebay stuff in a prev post.

Rear springs: ~$80-$100 a pair (for new springs in any rate or length you want, half that for used springs)

http://www.summitracing.com/search/d...er-in/2-500-in



Drive happy


Isaac

neektar

iTrader: (2)

This is exactly what I've put together. Two things though:

There is no true upper top hat included with the ebay kit. They include a plastic one that will not hold up to the stress. I am purchasing a separate tophat for this purpose.

The new shock assembly won't fit the current upper shock mount without: some cutting of the upper chassis mount OR a spacer to space the top hat below the mount. Id like a complete "bolt on" and "off the shelf" solution without body modifications. So this poses a potential problem. I'll update when the parts get here and everything is assembled and ready to go.

As a side note, spring rates will be different since the spring is moved to a new location. You will likely have to use softer springs to get the same spring effectiveness as stock location springs.

Total for far - ~$225 just the rear

Shocks - $40 a pair (went with monroe sensitracs for initial testing, will step up to KYB AGX's)
Springs - $90 a pair
ebay kit - $20 a pair
2pc shaft collars (1 3/4" ID) - $35 a pair
Top Hats - $40 a pair

flight_of_pain

wow, the cheap ebay kits used to come with nice aluminum top hats, like in my pic up there, but it looks like some of them come with plastic now. It looks like some of the kits still come with the alu. hats, those work fine with a spacer (I have used everything from a stack of washers, to a bit of thick wall tubing).

here's a couple that have the alu hats still

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Civic-Prelude-Del-Sol-Crx-Suspension-Coilover-Lowering-Spring-Kit-/251259416692?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a803a7074&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-00-CIVIC-HIGH-LOW-LOWERING-SPRING-COILOVER-KIT-BLUE-/250864095710?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a68aa51de&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-2000-HONDA-CIVIC-EX-LX-DX-SI-EK-LOWERING-COILOVER-SPRINGS-DROP-KIT-BLUE-/130867742996?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e78534914&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-97-MAZDA-MIATA-BLUE-ADJUSTABLE-SCALE-COILOVER-LOWERING-SPRINGS-KIT-/221206135382?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3380e9c256&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-97-MAZDA-MIATA-SILVER-ADJUSTABLE-SCALE-COILOVER-LOWERING-SPRINGS-KIT-/221144550972?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337d3e0e3c&vxp=mtr

neektar

iTrader: (2)

Go figure I purchase the wrong set! Good info for those that are thinking about doing this and haven't purchased anything.

Thick wall tubing is going to be my initial solution. Stacked washers was at the bottom of my list. Although none of the top end is going to require a high degree of engineering/precision, for the price, it's worth investing a little more time/effort/$ to make it look right/safe.

flight_of_pain

Any non-compressible material and you are good to go, we used washers on the first set to get the correct spacing (planning to replace with cut tubing at some point), but never pulled them back apart. One thing I did that works well is using a fender washer against the underside of the body mount to spread the load across a wider surface than those little rubber bushings. The rubber on top is fine because there is much less loading in that direction, but all of the bump loading is transferred into that mount point, and I have had them tear/deform under heavy loading.

Isaac

vcs2340

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know the drop from stock ride height for the respeed coil overs? Also does anyone know what company has the largest drop from stock height?
Thank you,
Spencer

mojave

Re-Speed coilovers are adjustable. You can basically go as low as you want (within reason).

hoang5659

iTrader: (14)

can the rear shock mount take the weight of the car? makes me nervous thinking about it...

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

Yes it can. Ppl have been full on racing with rear coils for years with no problem whatsoever.

flight_of_pain

Absolutely, there are several racers running these setups and really beating on the cars, if they stand up to that then street cars have nothing to worry about. Think about how much stress get directed into that mount by a stiff shock.

Isaac

hoang5659

iTrader: (14)

are you building these to sell? would you build me a set? or do a write up on how to build it? i am extremely interested. i currently have the RE-Speed rear coilover set up with illuninas. my car has this issue where the one side sags more then the other. i fixed it with the coilover set up but it bothers me b/c i think i got the control arms mixed up when i changed out my bushings. haha oh well... lmk

LokiRx7.1

iTrader: (1)

Great minds think alike lol After finding out the hard way Respeed isnt going to deliver my parts, I looked long and hard at the TTT coilovers and decided I could duplicate it myself. Ive ordered all the parts save for shocks (waiting on my respeed money to get refunded.) I wasnt sure if the Ebay coils were coming with anodized aluminum, or plastic tophats, so I just ordered the ones that obviously came with aluminum. Glad I made that call!

Redliner223

iTrader: (6)

It looks like you only build the rear coilover, what do the fronts look like?
How well is the ride and quality of the pieces you used?

LokiRx7.1

iTrader: (1)

Ebay coilover sleeves are the only ebay part used. They seem to be of acceptable quality. You throw the ebay springs in the trash, or sell them to a Honda owner. Then you buy universal 2.5 inch coilover springs in the rate you want from Summit Racing. The front is easier than the rear. I believe with the ebay coilover sleeve you simply remove the stock spring and drop the sleeve/new spring into place and you are pretty much ready to go. If you used a longer coilover sleeve you would need to cut and lower the spring perch on the shock tube though.

The quality of the parts is dependent on what you buy and use.

The ride quality is dependent on the spring rates you choose, and the shocks you end up running.

Essentially it is what you make it. That it the beauty of this, you can spend as much, or as little as you want. If you dont care about handling or ride quality you could slam it to the bump stops. If you want a superior handling setup you can tailor the shocks and springs to your driving style.

After doing all of this, depending on how low you plan to go, you may want to look into a three link or panhard rod setup for the rear, and definately RCAs for the front. The aftermarket for these cars is going the way of the dinosaur, going to universal parts means staying competitive for the forseeable future.

andernamen

iTrader: (2)

I'm just looking to replace some worn shocks and springs without lowering anything. What would be a simple replacement for a stock GSL-SE?

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Racing beat springs and KYB shocks are a fine replacement for stock for a street car. Though the RB springs are alleged to ride 1" lower, they'll probably be the same or higher as the old springs sag some by now.

Garyrotor79

I recently purchased Intrac springs from Classic Garage, $160. They lowered the car nicely but my rear springs still bottomed out. Now I installed Lovells for the rear rated at 150lbs, no more bottoming out. I ordered the front ones too which are rated at 200lbs which will balance out the car properly. The rear ones are not too stiff and I am very satisfied with the ride, it’s not too stiff at all. I autocross the car and drive for about an hour and a half to get there without bottoming out. I carry all my racing stuff and my buddy. I purchased the Lovells form Andy Kollar of Kollar Racing who gets them from Australia where Mazda first introduced their cars. The front and rear springs come in three different sizes but are all rated the same 200lb front and 150lb rear. There are lowering springs, standard height and a raised height springs and cost $200. for fronts and $200. for a set of rears.
I also purchased the weld on perch coil-over kit from Ground Control for the fronts which I will be using on my 2nd car. They cannot be used on the street though. I have their adjustable camber plates and Tokico 5 way adjustable shocks. Haven’t tried that setup yet.
If I was going to do it again, I would buy Lovells over the Racing Beat because of the variety of lengths and the higher spring rating. From what I have read, these cars were designed for the higher rates but manufactured with weaker springs for daily drivers to have a softer ride.

Garyrotor79

I have been using the Lovells springs front 200lb and back 150lb since my last post and I love them. I only have stock shocks on the rear but five way adjustable Tokicos on the front. Still trying to find an adjustable for the rear since unable to get the Tokicos. No bottoming out on the rears and the car rides and handles fantastic! Great improvement for autocrossing too.
The Lovells come in three different ride heights as well, lowering, standard, and raised. I'm using the lowered height for my autocross setup.
I can't see why anyone wouldn't use these stiffer springs on the rear to get rid of the bottoming out issue I experienced with the stock springs and some that were 20% stiffer.
PS........I did replace all the bushings and install a larger front sway bar too, then had the alignment done. I use Toyo Proxes 888 for autocrossing but with the great suspension the car handles great with the regular street tires too.

Tui

iTrader: (2)

As I have searched this forum, Racing Beat looks like the most popular spring choice.

Garyrotor79

Racing Beat has a lot of great parts available for our first gens and they are easy to find on line, the price is good and delivery is quick. With the Racing Beat springs you can still use the stock shocks whereas with the Lovells higher spring rates it is recommended to upgrade to a shock that can take the extra pressures. For myself I was looking for higher spring rates without going to a coilover setup. I use my car as a daily driver as well as autocrossing. All loaded up with gear and my buddy as a passenger I rarely ever hit the bump stops any more. The Lovells are more money but come in three different ride heights. Maybe I just have poor roads where I live but my car handles great now. The only time the car feels uncomfortable is when I have the Tokicos adjusted on the stiffer settings of 4 and 5 which is where they are for autocrossing.
I did try a set of lowering springs made by Intrax from Classic Garage which are supposed to be of similar rates to the RB. They were a noticeable improvement to the stock springs but not what I wanted.
I haven’t heard any feedback from anyone else that has installed the Lovells though. It took me a while to find them on line unlike the Racing Beat springs, another contributing factor to their popularity......