1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Spindle Failure of Front Struts

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Old Mar 25, 2025 | 05:30 PM
  #26  
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The roll center adjusters definitely improved front end bite on turn in. However, we did have a problem with the through bolts coming loose. T3:s tech team was great though and we figured I was overtightening them and crushing them a bit. This time though I drilled everything 1/2" to run bolts straight through and use Nylock nuts AND safety wire. It's not coming loose on it's own again...lol. The TX2 control arm package is newly installed over the winter so we haven't run it yet. First race is next month. As far as install it's all pretty great. Definitely some fiddley bits that can just be due to bent chassis stuff (race car). I should be doing a real alignment next Monday so we'll find out just how adjustable it all is. I will also say with our specific set up, some other things had to be changed. As you see in the pictures, we designed our own big brake kit that utilizes a 12.5" rotor. Using the roll center correctors as well as TX2 control arm with the provided spacers on the ball joint, the end of the control arm was contacting the rotor. With stock brakes this shouldn't be a problem. I had to space the rotor out 5mm and shift my caliper mount accordingly. I also install T3's bump steer correcting tie rod ends and steering arms. Using the outer holes on the steering arms to help quicken the steering and spacing the tie rod down as far as possibil, the tie rods rubbed on the wheel. Again, we have a unique set up. Also from Carl's car we got one of the old steering rack conversions which outs things in a slightly different place. A 3mm wheel spacer solved that.
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Old Mar 26, 2025 | 03:33 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Conekiller13
The roll center adjusters definitely improved front end bite on turn in. However, we did have a problem with the through bolts coming loose. T3:s tech team was great though and we figured I was overtightening them and crushing them a bit. This time though I drilled everything 1/2" to run bolts straight through and use Nylock nuts AND safety wire. It's not coming loose on it's own again...lol. The TX2 control arm package is newly installed over the winter so we haven't run it yet. First race is next month. As far as install it's all pretty great. Definitely some fiddley bits that can just be due to bent chassis stuff (race car). I should be doing a real alignment next Monday so we'll find out just how adjustable it all is. I will also say with our specific set up, some other things had to be changed. As you see in the pictures, we designed our own big brake kit that utilizes a 12.5" rotor. Using the roll center correctors as well as TX2 control arm with the provided spacers on the ball joint, the end of the control arm was contacting the rotor. With stock brakes this shouldn't be a problem. I had to space the rotor out 5mm and shift my caliper mount accordingly. I also install T3's bump steer correcting tie rod ends and steering arms. Using the outer holes on the steering arms to help quicken the steering and spacing the tie rod down as far as possibil, the tie rods rubbed on the wheel. Again, we have a unique set up. Also from Carl's car we got one of the old steering rack conversions which outs things in a slightly different place. A 3mm wheel spacer solved that.
Nice infos my friend!

I was in fact wondering about your brake setup!

What did you end up doing for rotors and hubs? Are you still on 4 x 110 ?
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Old Mar 26, 2025 | 10:15 AM
  #28  
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For hubs we're using modified GS/GSL rotors. Basically we've machined off the rotor leaving us a hub. We designed our own hats and had them machined out of 7075 aluminum by a local machine shop. Rotors and calipers are Wilwood. When we started the project, no had a big brake kit available other than the FC conversion kits (which we already had). We switched to Wilwoods as the supply of FC calipers has basically dried up. Also the lack of GSL-SE rear calipers. We run the same caliper body in the back with smaller pistons so we run the same brake pad front and rear. The T3 kit came out laterally weeks after we finished our set up. To do it again, we would just use the T3 kit. Same calipers but their hub is like jewelry as are the brackets. Cost wise its almost a wash. The machining was pretty expensive. It is all still 4x110. We stayed with that because we have many sets of wheels that are all 4x110.
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Old Mar 26, 2025 | 12:22 PM
  #29  
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Carl,

Have you looked at these?

https://www.mazdamotorsports.com/202...ng-miata-hubs/
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Old Mar 26, 2025 | 01:54 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Conekiller13
For hubs we're using modified GS/GSL rotors. Basically we've machined off the rotor leaving us a hub. We designed our own hats and had them machined out of 7075 aluminum by a local machine shop. Rotors and calipers are Wilwood. When we started the project, no had a big brake kit available other than the FC conversion kits (which we already had). We switched to Wilwoods as the supply of FC calipers has basically dried up. Also the lack of GSL-SE rear calipers. We run the same caliper body in the back with smaller pistons so we run the same brake pad front and rear. The T3 kit came out laterally weeks after we finished our set up. To do it again, we would just use the T3 kit. Same calipers but their hub is like jewelry as are the brackets. Cost wise its almost a wash. The machining was pretty expensive. It is all still 4x110. We stayed with that because we have many sets of wheels that are all 4x110.
Thanks for all the infos Daniel!
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Old Mar 26, 2025 | 03:00 PM
  #31  
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Daniel,

I have seen those hubs. I am going to try something else first, but if that doesn't work the tapered roll bearings seem like the best choice. Always worked great in the RX7!

Carl
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