YapaKanichi

ok I have a 13B 4-port from a 77 rx-4 I believe in my 84 gsl se. Now it has been streetported. I have plugs in it right now that are meant for a 84 gslse and well they got in a flooding about 15 times and they're not acting well. I did manage to get my hands on some plugs for a 77 13B 4-port. They are the BR7ET plugs. Are these ok? Thanks guys.

YapaKanichi

anyone?

YapaKanichi

SO no one here knows

85rotarypower

I would think that they would be fine. The engine really isn't that much different from a later 13B, so I would think that the later plugs would work too, but I have no experience with early rotaries. Hell, I don't have too much experience with my rotary. But as far as I know any plug should work.

wwilliam54

just DONT USE AUTOLITE cost me an engine

jus wanted to chime that in

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

So did you keep the points dizzy in the old engine?

The old addage applies. Use the plugs that match the ignition system. You can move up or down in the heat range from there.

I've had great results with BR8EQ-14 in all my 13Bs ranging from '74 to '80-something JDM housings with stock FB ignition and direct fire. The couple times I've tried FC BUR7EQs (in leading holes), they've given great results as well with direct fire. Trailing is best with BR8EQ-14 because it's running through the cap and rotor and matches the ignition system.

heb09

Ok not stealing the thread but 1 question:

I run BR8ET's in my 12aB. They generally come out a creamy colour, which means they are burning ok, but should I try go a colder plug to reduce engine temp? When boosting my engine goes up to half way mark after a few hard pulls. Is this bad?

wwilliam54

what kinda of oil cooler do you have?

heb09

its a series 2 one. Sits at the front underneath the radiator.

wwilliam54

just wondering
if the plugs have that good of a color i would see if the rad is working right, might need to be taken to a shop

mar3

iTrader: (8)

I was under the impression you could not read the plugs pulled from a rotary the same way you would from plugs out of a 4-cycle piston engine, which is what you are describing...

aGoGo

Mar3,

Do you know how it should be read? I am on the same page too.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

You can sort of read rotary plugs. A creamy mocha color is good. Black is too rich, and white is too lean. Pretty straight forward.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Once again, those are color characteristics of a 4-cycle piston engine where 3 of the cycles lacks a combustion event leading to that "colorizing". One thing most people don't realize, because of the Chilton's manuals and their "color" instructions, is that you're supposed to get a fresh set of plugs and make a run down the street and back....let it cool down, then pull the plugs for a read...... The constant burn nature of the rotary combustion "chamber" isn't supposed to lend itself to the same color imparting characteristics. If it does, that would be nice. I can't remember where I read that plug colorization is different. Racing Beat catalog comes to mind or maybe it was on the YawPower site....

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Like I said, you can sort of read rotary plugs. Heh, seems like you know more about it than I do.

Try this technique. Take your car for a hard run somewhere. Then shut it off quickly. Coast to a stop and allow the engine to cool enough so you can remove the plugs without damage to anything (the aluminum, your hands etc). Take a look. I think Lynn E Hannover mentioned that technique a while back.

thafox

sorry 2 hyjack this thread but would it make a drastic difference if i put 2nd gen 13b plugs in my 1st gen 13b?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

The 2nd gen plugs require a bit more power such as from a direct fire ignition system, but some people have tried them with a stock 1st gen (through the cap) ignition system.

I've gone to 2nd gen plugs in the leading holes in two engines with DLIDFIS so far and have had great results.

The next time I buy spark plugs, I'll get BUR7EQ (2nd gen leading) and put them in the leading holes of my other engines. I'll use stock 1st gen plugs (BR8EQ-14) in the trailing holes because it's still going through the distributor cap.

To put it simply; use plugs that match the ignition system.

rx8chick

?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

rotor vs piston?

mar3

iTrader: (8)

piston vs. rotor?....

I know a thing or two about boingers, it's the rotary side of reading plugs that eludes me...I only know what I've read somewhere else on the subject...

Metallic_rock

I have the same engine, and I use the plugs for an N/A 2nd gen in mine. It works quite well.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

rx8chick is rotor vs piston

I also have the same engine, close enough to it for this thread's purposes. It'll get two 2nd gen leading plugs as soon as I need to get some new ones.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Heh, I was just talking about my '76 Cosmo engine in a different thread. Here you go.

Hayes told me to get a set of BR7ETs for my REPU way back in '97 when I asked them about plugs. Well, I stuck with BR8EQ-14s and I'm glad I did. Now I'm going to move everything over to BUR7EQs in leading on everything with DLIDFIS (which is everything by the way) the next time I do a 'tune up' (not really tuning the carb, so why is it still called that?).

I know why Hayes says that. It's because of the old style ignition systems of of all the pre '81 engines. They're not in business to tell you how to upgrade the ignition system of your older rotary. Again, my '76 13B ran much better after after upgrading to BR8EQ-14s with an '81-'85 distributor in my Cosmo. Then upgrading to DLIDFIS made it run way better. Infact, after sitting for several months with a bad fuel pump, after I changed it and went to crank the engine, it fired up in the first second of cranking! It was like RrMMMMMMM. I was more worried about oil pressure at that point since the engine fired up a little too quickly (before the oil pump had a chance to build a little oil pressure).

Of the two series, do I like BUR_EQ or BR8EQ-14 better? I'd say it's best to match the plug to the ignition system. That means if I'm running a direct fire ignition system on leading (all of my engines are currently running this way), I'd say to go with the plugs that Mazda's and NGK's engineers used = BUR7EQ. As for trailing, again, I'll go with the engineers' favorite choice = BR8EQ-14 because it matches that particular ignition system (through the cap). I've now done two engines like this (three if you count my 20B's leading circuit only) and see no reason to change.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

What are your thoughts on the other plugs mentioned when the DLIDFIS subject comes up? The NGK V-Power series R5400s??

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Never used 'em.