Should I make the jump and buy new exhaust and start from there?

 

Yes you should get a new exhaust but thats not your problem.

 

I've never tore down a carb before and my manual isn't really great with its picture quality. Can anybody help me out or send me a link to a tear down. I've never checked floats or needles before either.

 

And thank you for helping me out.

 

Would it be easier to take the carb off the engine to inspect it?

 

I do have power loss, but its not like I have to mash pedal down to get speed, its noticeable but not major. Starts right up every morning.

 

Have you checked your timing? If your dizzy wasn't locked down adequately and your timing shifted (or something went wrong with one of the three advance mechanisms), you'd get incomplete combustion and very rough idle even though all plugs are firing.

 

Not yet, but i do have a timing light at my school so I can try and figure that out tomorrow morning. I found a carburetor manual on foxed.ca and I've been reading into that for about an hour.

 

Check your float levels on the carb. One of the bowls is probably flooded, from debris in the needle and seat. Did you do any work to the fuel system lately?

 

I ran out of time and didn't get to check the timing, I checked the float level towards the front and it was right in the middle of the glass. I didn't get to check the rear float because I found a piece of vacuum hose that was plugged laying on top of the engine. I spent a while trying to find where it is suppose to be inserted. I'm thinking this vacuum leak somewhere is what is causing the issue. I have a picture of the hose. The AC and air pump was removed before I got the car hence the reason of plugged vacuum hoses. Wherever the hose goes onto isn't in plain sight and I can't find it. I'm just going to have to try harder.

 

I was reading the forums about vacuum leaks and I think this is the same leak I'm having? Can you get to this area with the carb on or is it too hard?

QUOTE:

"My fix took me forever to find but what it ended up being was a MASSIVE vacuum leak. The vacuum hose/plug that was on the underside of the intake manifold had fallen off and resulted in running like **** below 3k RPM.

If your issues seem similar, check all vacuum hoses, plugs, vents etc to ensure they are properly hooked up. I had thought it might be a vacuum issue originally, thought I'd checked my whole vacuum system, replaced a bunch of caps but missed the gaping hole under the carb on the intake manifold."
__________________

 

I still can't find where this hose goes and now my carb dumps fuel into the engine every time I shut it off, flooding it.

 

Check your floats...

 

Try spraying starting fluid around the engine. When you find the area of the vacuum leak the engine should stall.

 

I think the rear bowl is flooded.

Take the top off the carb while being careful with the top gasket, and inspect the needle and seats.

The rear needle has something sticking it open, simple as that.

 

After a drive the flooding after shutting off went away.

 

I checked the floats they both are in the middle on the sight.

 

ok, the flooding after shutdown was a sticking needle then. Congrats, driving it fixed that small part of the problem


That still says to me your carb is extra cruddy and in need of a rebuild.

 

Damn, I'm out of luck when it comes to a rebuild here. But thank you guys for the advice, trying to decide if I want a new carb or to rebuild one now. Being my daily driver, I can see this carb completely taking a dump soon then.

 

You cant rebuild a carburetor?

I could build you one, but it would be non emissions and probably mechanical secondaries.

 

Try changing the fuel filter first, but I bet your tank needs to be drained and cleaned out and
the fuel lines cleared as well. Don't rebuild the carb until you know you are getting clean gas
out of the tank or you will be rebuilding it or cleaning it out more than once.

Oh, and a 30+ year old car as DD will not work, you need another car. This car is going to have issues every month
unless you do a full up restoration on all the serviceable parts. Serviceable parts are brakes, hoses, belts, fluids,
springs, shocks, tires etc.

 

I thought you could buy a rebuild kit for the Nikki. Also I'm getting really clean fuel, I replaced the rear fuel filter and the plastic see through filter under the hood.

 

You can buy a rebuild kit, but then you have to tear it down and rebuild it haha

 

About 50 bucks for the kit. $10 for carb cleaner snd engine degreaser. Your basically just taking it apart, cleaning out the passageways, and reassembling it with new gaskets and needles.

 

I had this happen once but it was my own electrical mistake that kept blowing fuses silly alternator wires.