sound deadening
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sound deadening
All my interior is out from the seats back because of wheel well rust, (tell me about it) anyway thats all fixed now and im ready to put it all back in and i was wondering whats the most efficient sound deadening, the stock stuff or something aftermarket like dynamat. I'm not to worried about weight because i dont think the difference would be more that +/- 10lbs. i have a suspicion that dynamat would be lighter anyway. well thanks for your input everyone. -Justin
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My 7 is my girlfriend.
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If you want to remove the OEM gunk, it comes out great with a miniature flat crow bar and a hammer, mine is just chipping right off. Took me 15 minutes to do half the spare tire well, with a bunch of tools and stuff sitting in my way. Hopefully that will help shave a few more pounds when its all out.
#6
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I've stipped my carpets, dash, all lower interior, matting under the carpets, and am about to remove the "tar" which I guess is bitumen. Anywho, research for this step has turned up the practice of using dry ice, after which, the tar kind of lifts out. I plan to use dynamat as the replacement.
#7
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Most stuff is based on - no kidding - asphalt! (as in roof shingles).
Heavy, stinky and not the most effective stuff around, this includes over-hyped "Dynamat" products. Check out this link:
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
Stu Aull
80GS
Heavy, stinky and not the most effective stuff around, this includes over-hyped "Dynamat" products. Check out this link:
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
Stu Aull
80GS
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#8
Old Fart Young at Heart
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That's what bitumen is, the tar base that is the binding component for asphalt and shingles. One can also use one of the ice dam underlayments for roofing shingles. It has a self stick backside. 2 layers of it should be about equal to the oem coating. A roll of it can be had for 40 or less and should be enough for the entire floor pan and the inside of the door skins which many people miss when adding sound deadening.
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