Some series one carb questions. :)
11-28-11, 08:08 PM
#1
car setter on firer
Thread Starter
Some series one carb questions. :)
let's just get this out of the way. "I've searched."
ok, i'm stripping my nikki (1980 LS 5spd. stock) now here are my questions:
1)What does the richer solenoid do? also the vent solenoid? can they be bypassed? the FSM doesn't really explain it.
2)Do i need the fast idle arm? what are the cons to keeping it removed? i'm a minimalist, and hooking that stupid thing up looks like a PAIN.
3)The biggest question is: Does the series one carb have a shutter valve? i honestly haven't looked, although the PDF from vipernicus shows a different year of carb, so who knows. there's also an altitude compensator somewhere, but on this year carb i can't find it.
i know my way around performance carbs, i've tuned several datsuns all running a weber DD, and my 260z had triple mikuni's , but i've never had to deal with these strange 80's smog contraptions.
thanks in advance guys!
ok, i'm stripping my nikki (1980 LS 5spd. stock) now here are my questions:
1)What does the richer solenoid do? also the vent solenoid? can they be bypassed? the FSM doesn't really explain it.
2)Do i need the fast idle arm? what are the cons to keeping it removed? i'm a minimalist, and hooking that stupid thing up looks like a PAIN.
3)The biggest question is: Does the series one carb have a shutter valve? i honestly haven't looked, although the PDF from vipernicus shows a different year of carb, so who knows. there's also an altitude compensator somewhere, but on this year carb i can't find it.
i know my way around performance carbs, i've tuned several datsuns all running a weber DD, and my 260z had triple mikuni's , but i've never had to deal with these strange 80's smog contraptions.
thanks in advance guys!
11-29-11, 01:51 AM
#3
You can remove all the emissions solenoids, but the holes need to be plugged or sealed with JB weld or whatever. If your carb has the fuel bowl vent solenoid, I cut this off with a grinder and seal the hole with JB weld. If you leave it on there it needs to be powered to prevent flooding issues, so much easier to remove it.
The fast idle arm is the only part of the choke system you need (butterflies and all the other crap can be pulled off). It holds the throttle open when the choke cable is pulled. But once all the other stuff is gone the arm needs to be bent and adjusted so that it operates and rests correctly. Here is a guideline pic below. You will need to adjust the orange angle to ensure the arm rests in the right position for the choke cable to reach it. And the yellow angle so that it contacts the yellow tab fairly soon after the choke cable is pulled but still retaining a little bit of clearance.
As for the shutter valve I highly doubt it, as this only came on later models AFAIK. Altitude compensator may also be missing.
The fast idle arm is the only part of the choke system you need (butterflies and all the other crap can be pulled off). It holds the throttle open when the choke cable is pulled. But once all the other stuff is gone the arm needs to be bent and adjusted so that it operates and rests correctly. Here is a guideline pic below. You will need to adjust the orange angle to ensure the arm rests in the right position for the choke cable to reach it. And the yellow angle so that it contacts the yellow tab fairly soon after the choke cable is pulled but still retaining a little bit of clearance.
As for the shutter valve I highly doubt it, as this only came on later models AFAIK. Altitude compensator may also be missing.
11-29-11, 11:57 AM
#4
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1. IDK, have you looked @ www.foxed.ca ?
2. on my carbs i remove the choke plate, but i like to keep the fast idle, as just the fast idle alone actually works fine for me. they really only need the choke/fast idle for like 60 seconds though, so i'd rather pull the ****, you can use your foot....
3. no. shutter valve is 81-85.
2. on my carbs i remove the choke plate, but i like to keep the fast idle, as just the fast idle alone actually works fine for me. they really only need the choke/fast idle for like 60 seconds though, so i'd rather pull the ****, you can use your foot....
3. no. shutter valve is 81-85.
11-29-11, 07:03 PM
#5
The factory carb manual goes into full gory detail on the purpose and function of all the circuits of the carbs. The Foxed.ca link above will get you to it - it's invaluable if you want to really understand how Nikki's work.
The richer soleniod is mainly there to prevent over-lean conditions that would otherwise cause backfiring, primarily during coasting. On SA's it also helps keep the thermal reactor 'fed' enough to keep it in it's operating heat range.
& the shutter valve isn't on the carb - it's in the manifold, and only on S2's.
It's not really an "emissions" part, and there's no performance-based reason to remove it.
The richer soleniod is mainly there to prevent over-lean conditions that would otherwise cause backfiring, primarily during coasting. On SA's it also helps keep the thermal reactor 'fed' enough to keep it in it's operating heat range.
& the shutter valve isn't on the carb - it's in the manifold, and only on S2's.
It's not really an "emissions" part, and there's no performance-based reason to remove it.
11-29-11, 08:00 PM
#6
car setter on firer
Thread Starter
wow, all good info. thanks so much guys, couldn't done it w/o ya. let me know if you ever have any appliance questions, i'm a factory certified tech. either pm me or just visit the appliance guy thread in the lounge. so i'll go out and destroy that vent solenoid thingy, plug my vac holes except the one for the dizzy advance. and then i'll get rid of the fast idle armature, it's not my DD, so i can just hold my foot on it till warmed up.
11-29-11, 09:15 PM
#7
wow, all good info. thanks so much guys, couldn't done it w/o ya. let me know if you ever have any appliance questions, i'm a factory certified tech. either pm me or just visit the appliance guy thread in the lounge. so i'll go out and destroy that vent solenoid thingy, plug my vac holes except the one for the dizzy advance. and then i'll get rid of the fast idle armature, it's not my DD, so i can just hold my foot on it till warmed up.
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