So the time has come....
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So the time has come....
I cant find this god damm vacume leak so time to rebuild the carb, remove the rats nest, install new intake gasket and o-rings and install the RB header. Just want to make sure i do it in the proper order. First off what should i do first take off the rats nest, remove the carb? What do i soak the carb parts in to clean them before rebuild? Do i need a heat sheild where the old one was? what can i use as a pre-silencer CHEAP even if only lasts a 6 months dont want to be too loud? What valve's/emmision parts can i remove from the carb (simplify)? I think thats it. Im kind of afraid of the whole process but once it is all done the knolage will be well worth it. One lat thing if you have any tips, warnings, or tool/parts needed please feal free all advice is welcome.
Thanks in advance Peter A. Trapino
Thanks in advance Peter A. Trapino
#5
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Well, if youre doing this all at the same time, heres what I would do. Rip every thing off. Just start unbolting crap until you have nothing left. Honestly.
Since youre installing the new intake manifold gasket, just unbolt the damn manifold from the block, then put it on your work bench to take the carb off. Much easier that way. Why new O-Rings? You can just plug the coolant passages so you never have to deal with them again. Get your self a couple quarters and shove em in there, or find some 80mm (I think?) freeze plugs at the auto parts store and use those. Then, slap on the new gasket, and bolt up the manifold. Since youre putting on a header and I assume not running a cat, you can get rid of the air pump and the ACV crap. Theres a thingy on the side of the manifold with two bolts and one nut holding it on, thats the ACV. Yank it off and build a block off plate to cover the hole with some 1/8" aluminum, or just get the block off place from Racing Beat. Same goes for the old air feed pipe from the manifold thingy to the cat. Two bolts hold the pipe on, just pull the pipe off, and either build or buy a block off plate for that. That will clean up your intake manifold a lot. As far as the carb itself, Im not too sure. I just did mechnical secondaries on mine, but never really messed wit it too much. PM RX7Carl or Sterling and ask them what you can clean up on it. To physically clean it, I would use chem dip type carb cleaner. Sold at auto parts stores in gallon size paint type cans with a little dipping basket inside. Works great IMO. Rats nest, well, thats another one I dont really know too well. I just yanked mine all off, and never worried about it too much. I wasnt running vacuum advance on the distributor I dont think, and I just had a little breather filter on the oil fill tube with no problems. If you dont have AC then you dont need the solenoid for that off the nest either. Theres a rats nest removal tutorial someone made and posted that would be a good read for you. As I said though, you may or may not need that AC solenoid, and I think they keep the purge valve too. I didnt when I did mine. Heres the link: http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/ and heres a quote from the original thread with part numbers from Napa.
Anyway, I think thats all Ive got for now. Hope that helps some.
~T.J.
Since youre installing the new intake manifold gasket, just unbolt the damn manifold from the block, then put it on your work bench to take the carb off. Much easier that way. Why new O-Rings? You can just plug the coolant passages so you never have to deal with them again. Get your self a couple quarters and shove em in there, or find some 80mm (I think?) freeze plugs at the auto parts store and use those. Then, slap on the new gasket, and bolt up the manifold. Since youre putting on a header and I assume not running a cat, you can get rid of the air pump and the ACV crap. Theres a thingy on the side of the manifold with two bolts and one nut holding it on, thats the ACV. Yank it off and build a block off plate to cover the hole with some 1/8" aluminum, or just get the block off place from Racing Beat. Same goes for the old air feed pipe from the manifold thingy to the cat. Two bolts hold the pipe on, just pull the pipe off, and either build or buy a block off plate for that. That will clean up your intake manifold a lot. As far as the carb itself, Im not too sure. I just did mechnical secondaries on mine, but never really messed wit it too much. PM RX7Carl or Sterling and ask them what you can clean up on it. To physically clean it, I would use chem dip type carb cleaner. Sold at auto parts stores in gallon size paint type cans with a little dipping basket inside. Works great IMO. Rats nest, well, thats another one I dont really know too well. I just yanked mine all off, and never worried about it too much. I wasnt running vacuum advance on the distributor I dont think, and I just had a little breather filter on the oil fill tube with no problems. If you dont have AC then you dont need the solenoid for that off the nest either. Theres a rats nest removal tutorial someone made and posted that would be a good read for you. As I said though, you may or may not need that AC solenoid, and I think they keep the purge valve too. I didnt when I did mine. Heres the link: http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/ and heres a quote from the original thread with part numbers from Napa.
Originally Posted by White84SE
A little bit of help for the guys who want to do this... I've got a part number list for ya.. if you've got a NAPA store nearby (and really, who doesn't? LOL), take this list in, and they'll give you everything you need...
NAPA Helts and Hose Product Line
NBH H451 (5/32" vacuum hose)
NBH H173 (5/32" Fuel hose)
NBH H455 (5/16" vacuum hose)
NBH 3L220 (The belt if you've got a double pulley, skip it)
Balkamp Product Line
BK 660-1695 (1/2" vacuum cap)
BK 660-1696 (9/16" vacuum cap)
BK 715-1815 ( Assortment, has the t-fittings in it)
BK 715-1803 (5/32" vacuum plugs. Get two, package has 5 in it.)
BK 765-2682 (Hylomar gasket sealer)
There ya go.. didn't include the bolts, but they're easy to get.. total cost for me was $20.45, but I get a discount... have fun..
--Danny
NAPA Helts and Hose Product Line
NBH H451 (5/32" vacuum hose)
NBH H173 (5/32" Fuel hose)
NBH H455 (5/16" vacuum hose)
NBH 3L220 (The belt if you've got a double pulley, skip it)
Balkamp Product Line
BK 660-1695 (1/2" vacuum cap)
BK 660-1696 (9/16" vacuum cap)
BK 715-1815 ( Assortment, has the t-fittings in it)
BK 715-1803 (5/32" vacuum plugs. Get two, package has 5 in it.)
BK 765-2682 (Hylomar gasket sealer)
There ya go.. didn't include the bolts, but they're easy to get.. total cost for me was $20.45, but I get a discount... have fun..
--Danny
~T.J.
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#8
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I have the RB system, and no heatshield. No issues so far....
While you are doing all of the work that Rotormotordiver suggested, you might want to send your carb out to Sterling for modification/rebuild. Then you'd have a monster!
While you are doing all of the work that Rotormotordiver suggested, you might want to send your carb out to Sterling for modification/rebuild. Then you'd have a monster!
#9
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Wish i could afford a Sterling carb. But money says Trapino built, Deising buy Sterling. One more noob question, well 2 more. Should i drain the coolant before removing the intake, and do i need t torq wrench?
#10
Seven Is Coming
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Yes, drain the coolant, or at least 2 gallons or so to get the level lower than that of the intake. I didnt, made a mess. Tried to catch it in a wide bucket thingy, didnt work. Torque wrenches are very nice, and ensure proper assembly of parts as to not warp things, but Ive made do without one for stuff like this. If you have access to one, use it. Maybe rent one? But, IMO, if youre tight on money, just go for it. Make sure theyre tight, just not overtight, lol. I didnt use one when I did mine, but now that I own one, I wouldve.
~T.J.
~T.J.
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