Smokin' in the Engine Room....
02-19-14, 03:35 PM
#26
Yes replacing the manifold gasket between the intake manifold and the carb is a must.
And don't forget to replace the O rings too, one of those puppies is probably what's causing your coolant leak.
If the carb is working fine, there's no reason to rebuild (if it ain't broke, don't fix it) and since you don't need the carb-to-manifold gasket that comes with the rebuild kit, you're good to go.
You just need to get that left rear 12 mm nut off first. (Hint, if desperate, try removing pieces of the rat's nest that are blocking your way, like that tower thing).
Let me defer to higher authorities on the torque specs for the intake manifold bolts. I just crank them down 'til I think they're right.
Of course, I've stripped out a few aluminum threads learning when they're down right.
And don't forget to replace the O rings too, one of those puppies is probably what's causing your coolant leak.
If the carb is working fine, there's no reason to rebuild (if it ain't broke, don't fix it) and since you don't need the carb-to-manifold gasket that comes with the rebuild kit, you're good to go.
You just need to get that left rear 12 mm nut off first. (Hint, if desperate, try removing pieces of the rat's nest that are blocking your way, like that tower thing).
Let me defer to higher authorities on the torque specs for the intake manifold bolts. I just crank them down 'til I think they're right.
Of course, I've stripped out a few aluminum threads learning when they're down right.
02-21-14, 08:15 AM
#27
Bent wrench provided by friend from work. I have the carb off, and set to the side. Wasn't quite sure what to do about the throttle and other cables connected to it. Got the shield set to the side - again not wanting to pull off more stuff (tubes) than necessary. Got the intake off. I plan to clean it up today - is there anything I need to be aware of?
Also, I'm certain the O-Rings / Intake Gasket are the source of my leak. One O ring was non-existent and the other was cracked.
So, questions:
All I need is the intake gasket and o-rings, yes? No sealant or anything of that sort?
I have replacement OMP lines, but I don't have anything to replace the super-small spring clamps that held them to the carb / omp pump. Any suggestions?
I was planning to use carb cleaner to get all the gunked up grease and such off the side of the engine. Will stuffing rags into the intake ports be enough to protect them?
Notice the intake (I think?) port on the engine that is rear-most. It seems to have a lot more build up on it than anything else. Should I be concerned? It's pretty hard to tell from the pictures, although you can see it some in the last one. The intake manifold seems pretty decent on the inside - what I can see; but on the engine that one port seems pretty gunky. The car is 1985, with 76,000-odd miles on it.
Also, I'm certain the O-Rings / Intake Gasket are the source of my leak. One O ring was non-existent and the other was cracked.
So, questions:
All I need is the intake gasket and o-rings, yes? No sealant or anything of that sort?
I have replacement OMP lines, but I don't have anything to replace the super-small spring clamps that held them to the carb / omp pump. Any suggestions?
I was planning to use carb cleaner to get all the gunked up grease and such off the side of the engine. Will stuffing rags into the intake ports be enough to protect them?
Notice the intake (I think?) port on the engine that is rear-most. It seems to have a lot more build up on it than anything else. Should I be concerned? It's pretty hard to tell from the pictures, although you can see it some in the last one. The intake manifold seems pretty decent on the inside - what I can see; but on the engine that one port seems pretty gunky. The car is 1985, with 76,000-odd miles on it.
02-21-14, 09:05 PM
#28
Well - mostly success to report. I plunged in and replaced the o-rings and the intake gasket. Bear in mind that I'm a bit of a noob at some of this stuff. I think I was mostly successful. However, I discovered something today that may or may not be an issue. I suppose I can start a new thread about it, but I'll add it here for the moment. Of the six color-coded solenoids that are on the driver's side - one of mine is broken. I think it has been this way as long as I've had the car (two years). Is this a crisis? The air tube is not even present for this solenoid (the brown solenoid). Here are a couple of pics:
Lastly, after buttoning everything up, I started the car and let it idle for a bit while topping off the coolant. Everything seemed fine, so I drove for about three miles or so and stopped at a store, only to discover massive amounts of smoke. However, the smoke didn't appear until I shut the car off. I had the fire extinguisher handy, but the smoke doesn't appear to be coming from oil and it is certainly not fuel. So...I think what I am witnessing is the coolant that I got all over the block while removing the manifold burning off. I let the car cool and then I drove it home. Same story - no smoke, until I shut it off.
And while it's hard to tell in that picture, most of the smoke is coming from the snorkel, as before. So, I guess that sums up my questions. Thoughts? Insights? Should I start a different thread about the solenoid?
Thanks!
Lastly, after buttoning everything up, I started the car and let it idle for a bit while topping off the coolant. Everything seemed fine, so I drove for about three miles or so and stopped at a store, only to discover massive amounts of smoke. However, the smoke didn't appear until I shut the car off. I had the fire extinguisher handy, but the smoke doesn't appear to be coming from oil and it is certainly not fuel. So...I think what I am witnessing is the coolant that I got all over the block while removing the manifold burning off. I let the car cool and then I drove it home. Same story - no smoke, until I shut it off.
And while it's hard to tell in that picture, most of the smoke is coming from the snorkel, as before. So, I guess that sums up my questions. Thoughts? Insights? Should I start a different thread about the solenoid?
Thanks!
02-22-14, 08:21 AM
#29
Looking good under the hood JB! I especially like the part where the steam is coming out the snorkel, that's cool. Your thread is aptly named, I'd just keep it going here since all your problems seem to be related (somehow).
So now, in the World of Rotaries, you're a Nikki Expert!
In any event, it was certainly time to redo the intake manifold gaskets, you'll need to do that every 30 years or so. I don't think you need any sealant on the intake gasket and o rings, just clean up the surfaces really well before you reinstall them. But a bit of that black hylomar stuff probably isn't a bad idea, just to make them sticky and stay in place, if for no other reason.
I should have that spare solenoid for you, I'll poke around the parts shed this afternoon and see if I can turn one up. For the time being, you should just block off the leaking connection, so you don't have a vacuum leak (be sure to locate the other end and block it too; if the car stops running after you block it off, then unblock it until you can get a proper replacement).
I may also have some of those super small wire clamps that hold the omp lines on, I'll check. The lines probably function OK without the springs just slipped on the nipples, especially if they're new and the rubber connections are tight, but its still a good idea to have them for the long run. In the mean time, are you still premixing? And that smoke coming out the breather isn't omp oil, right?
You're probably right about burning off coolant and crud left over from the previous leak and from opening up the system.
See that concretion of black/brown scuz that's accumulated on top of the intake ports?
That's probably baked coolant that's piled up over the years due to the slow coolant leak in your intake gaskets, which eventually started dripping, making the puddle in your garage. That problem should now be fixed, but it's best to do a good inspection and make sure no more coolant (or anything else) is escaping your plumbing.
A good zap with engine degreaser followed by a hot detergent wash and garden hosing is probably a good idea too, to remove any residual grease and crud. Then, if you have a compressor, you can give it a good blow job, or take it out for a bit of highway driving, to dry things out.
If it's still Smokin' in the Engine Room.... after that, let us know, we can move on to Plan B.
So now, in the World of Rotaries, you're a Nikki Expert!
In any event, it was certainly time to redo the intake manifold gaskets, you'll need to do that every 30 years or so. I don't think you need any sealant on the intake gasket and o rings, just clean up the surfaces really well before you reinstall them. But a bit of that black hylomar stuff probably isn't a bad idea, just to make them sticky and stay in place, if for no other reason.
I should have that spare solenoid for you, I'll poke around the parts shed this afternoon and see if I can turn one up. For the time being, you should just block off the leaking connection, so you don't have a vacuum leak (be sure to locate the other end and block it too; if the car stops running after you block it off, then unblock it until you can get a proper replacement).
I may also have some of those super small wire clamps that hold the omp lines on, I'll check. The lines probably function OK without the springs just slipped on the nipples, especially if they're new and the rubber connections are tight, but its still a good idea to have them for the long run. In the mean time, are you still premixing? And that smoke coming out the breather isn't omp oil, right?
You're probably right about burning off coolant and crud left over from the previous leak and from opening up the system.
See that concretion of black/brown scuz that's accumulated on top of the intake ports?
That's probably baked coolant that's piled up over the years due to the slow coolant leak in your intake gaskets, which eventually started dripping, making the puddle in your garage. That problem should now be fixed, but it's best to do a good inspection and make sure no more coolant (or anything else) is escaping your plumbing.
A good zap with engine degreaser followed by a hot detergent wash and garden hosing is probably a good idea too, to remove any residual grease and crud. Then, if you have a compressor, you can give it a good blow job, or take it out for a bit of highway driving, to dry things out.
If it's still Smokin' in the Engine Room.... after that, let us know, we can move on to Plan B.
02-23-14, 03:43 PM
#31
You're too funny! I appreciate your help - if this forum had been around 20 years ago, I might still have my [B]first/B] RX-7!
The RB Exhaust system is on my radar, but I've got some other more pressing priorities to attend to for now.
That said - on the OMP lines, I used 1/4" hose clamps that I found at O'Reilly's. They state they are for GM cars, but they seem to be holding. (I didn't tell the car that it has parts for GM cars on it). No leaks that I've seen. I drove the car about 3 miles today, let it get nice and warm, and then shut it down. I don't see any smoke/steam at the moment. I'll drive it again tomorrow, weather permitting. Oh, and I do have some 2-stroke oil in the gas at the moment.
I need to pick up some proper engine cleaner and clean things up some more.
As for the solenoid, I assume I won't hurt anything driving the car until it's replaced? Thoughts on that? It's the brown one, closest to the front of the engine.
thanks again!
The RB Exhaust system is on my radar, but I've got some other more pressing priorities to attend to for now.
That said - on the OMP lines, I used 1/4" hose clamps that I found at O'Reilly's. They state they are for GM cars, but they seem to be holding. (I didn't tell the car that it has parts for GM cars on it). No leaks that I've seen. I drove the car about 3 miles today, let it get nice and warm, and then shut it down. I don't see any smoke/steam at the moment. I'll drive it again tomorrow, weather permitting. Oh, and I do have some 2-stroke oil in the gas at the moment.
I need to pick up some proper engine cleaner and clean things up some more.
As for the solenoid, I assume I won't hurt anything driving the car until it's replaced? Thoughts on that? It's the brown one, closest to the front of the engine.
thanks again!
02-23-14, 07:44 PM
#32
Sounds like you're making progress JB, it would be good to see that smoke go away.
I don't have a clue what that brown solenoid does, but I'm sure I have an extra, I'll get it in the mail in the next day or two. Also, I hate the thought of those GM parts under the hood, so If I have some extras of those little wire clamps for the omp lines I'll send them along.
So it looks like you'll be making it up to DGRR after all. We rented the cabin up on top of the mountain overlooking the lodge, just go to that little road across the street and drive up the mountain to the end. When you see a bunch of FBs, you're there, come on in..
I don't have a clue what that brown solenoid does, but I'm sure I have an extra, I'll get it in the mail in the next day or two. Also, I hate the thought of those GM parts under the hood, so If I have some extras of those little wire clamps for the omp lines I'll send them along.
So it looks like you'll be making it up to DGRR after all. We rented the cabin up on top of the mountain overlooking the lodge, just go to that little road across the street and drive up the mountain to the end. When you see a bunch of FBs, you're there, come on in..
02-23-14, 08:49 PM
#33
You might want to look at my first post again on page one. I'd look inside that heat shield. On my SAs, there is a layer of asbestos material sandwiched between the outer skin of the shield and an inner perforated metal. I've saw the perforated material rust away letting the asbestos come in contact with thermal reactor. It would smolder and start to burn.
It puked a putrid white electrical burning type of smoke that came up through the flexible hose and out the intake snorkel that was most noticeable after I shut the car off. If left long enough, I believe it could cause an actual fire. The shield is only a few bolts and relatively accessible.
It puked a putrid white electrical burning type of smoke that came up through the flexible hose and out the intake snorkel that was most noticeable after I shut the car off. If left long enough, I believe it could cause an actual fire. The shield is only a few bolts and relatively accessible.
02-24-14, 12:06 PM
#34
Banzai - Thanks! I think my asbestos sandwich is fine. Although, I wonder if perhaps that material soaked up some of the coolant that I lost when I took the manifold off. The smoking has ceased. Again, I'm thinking that it was mostly coolant that had splashed down the side of the engine that need to be cleared off.
Ray - that brown solenoid must do something. Today, I drove the car to work (4.4 miles) and then I treated myself to a healthy BoJangle's lunch (6 miles, ish). The car did great. Until coming back to work. Then, as I was moving along the main drive into campus, I slipped the car into neutral and just let it coast. It shut off. So, I slipped it into gear and let it restart itself. If I let off the gas, I shut off. Now, one could argue that the car is telling me to go home for the day; but I think it's probably related to some of that vacuum hose stuff under the hood. uhm.....?
Ray - that brown solenoid must do something. Today, I drove the car to work (4.4 miles) and then I treated myself to a healthy BoJangle's lunch (6 miles, ish). The car did great. Until coming back to work. Then, as I was moving along the main drive into campus, I slipped the car into neutral and just let it coast. It shut off. So, I slipped it into gear and let it restart itself. If I let off the gas, I shut off. Now, one could argue that the car is telling me to go home for the day; but I think it's probably related to some of that vacuum hose stuff under the hood. uhm.....?
02-24-14, 03:23 PM
#35
Did you do anything to the brown solenoid since you did the work on the intake?
If not, and the car wasn't stalling before you did the intake work, its probably not the solenoid, it's probably a problem related to hooding everything back up right.
With something as complicated as a Nikki and a rat's nest this is almost inevitable, for me at least.
Check over all your vacuum and cable connections. Also check for vacuum leaks by spraying some starter fluid around the carb and nest.
Finally, do a cold start in the driveway, let it warm up and then let it come to idle. Now rev it and let your foot off the gas. Does it come back to idle or does it stall?
And Bazai has a good point about that asbestos getting dirty and causing all kinds of smoke. Happens all the time. Of course you'll fix that problem when you install the RB header.
If not, and the car wasn't stalling before you did the intake work, its probably not the solenoid, it's probably a problem related to hooding everything back up right.
With something as complicated as a Nikki and a rat's nest this is almost inevitable, for me at least.
Check over all your vacuum and cable connections. Also check for vacuum leaks by spraying some starter fluid around the carb and nest.
Finally, do a cold start in the driveway, let it warm up and then let it come to idle. Now rev it and let your foot off the gas. Does it come back to idle or does it stall?
And Bazai has a good point about that asbestos getting dirty and causing all kinds of smoke. Happens all the time. Of course you'll fix that problem when you install the RB header.
02-25-14, 09:23 AM
#36
There are only a hundred or so hoses and lines in this thing. I don't see how I could have missed something! 
I don't think that I did anything w/ the brown solenoid, but who knows? I did manage to stretch this little project over several days. I need post a few more pictures of the parts that I am a tad corn-fussed about. For instance, what is the thing that sits up on a little tower sort of mount just behind the row of solenoids? It's got (in my case) what looks like a Mitisubushi logo on it. I think it should have just one vacuum line coming to it from under the air filter box, but I'm not 100% sure on that.
I have a 1984 OEM Shop Manual, although my car is a 1985. I can't imagine there is much difference.
I don't think that I did anything w/ the brown solenoid, but who knows? I did manage to stretch this little project over several days. I need post a few more pictures of the parts that I am a tad corn-fussed about. For instance, what is the thing that sits up on a little tower sort of mount just behind the row of solenoids? It's got (in my case) what looks like a Mitisubushi logo on it. I think it should have just one vacuum line coming to it from under the air filter box, but I'm not 100% sure on that.
I have a 1984 OEM Shop Manual, although my car is a 1985. I can't imagine there is much difference.
02-25-14, 12:59 PM
#37
I'm pretty sure that's the Electronic Disentangulator that regulates the shutter valve deaccelerater flap, or "honker", as it's known in the rotary world.
But you better check the FSM on that, I might have it mixed up with the OCD.
As I recall the ED has two hose connections to the rat's nest, not one, and if one of the hoses gets disconnected it makes the car stall out.
Take some pics of the brown solenoid, I'll check my rat's nest retirement community to see if I have one.
And yes, the 84 FSM is the same as the 85 FSM, it just doesn't have the wiring diagrams that are included in the 85.
But you better check the FSM on that, I might have it mixed up with the OCD.
As I recall the ED has two hose connections to the rat's nest, not one, and if one of the hoses gets disconnected it makes the car stall out.
Take some pics of the brown solenoid, I'll check my rat's nest retirement community to see if I have one.
And yes, the 84 FSM is the same as the 85 FSM, it just doesn't have the wiring diagrams that are included in the 85.
02-25-14, 03:16 PM
#38
That might be part of my problem. This 'T' is connected to the hose that runs to the ED (really, it's called that?!?!?)
I happened to take this picture this morning
I've looked in my '84 FSM and am having trouble figuring out where the two hoses that are teed in should connect. One goes into the air filter box (under the "honker"? Is that the metal flap thing inside the air box?). The other end goes.....? I'm a wonderin' if this is my problem.
As for the brown solenoid, the nipple is broken off, as evidenced here tiny picture:
I happened to take this picture this morning
I've looked in my '84 FSM and am having trouble figuring out where the two hoses that are teed in should connect. One goes into the air filter box (under the "honker"? Is that the metal flap thing inside the air box?). The other end goes.....? I'm a wonderin' if this is my problem.
As for the brown solenoid, the nipple is broken off, as evidenced here tiny picture:
02-26-14, 06:58 AM
#39
still have the carb off? i have a nikki rebuild kit as i ran into the same problem as you listed above.... those damn 30 year old o rings. only when i pulled mine off, lots of mods went on. bought the nikki rebuild kit, then gotta mikuni sidedraft and ported intake mani and rb headers and all emissions delete ect ect..
Anywho, if you want to rebuild, i have a BNIB nikki rebuild kit i bought for $30. it's yours for $5 + shipping if your interested. i have no use for it. pm me if interested.
that rear driver side bolt is a PIT *&$^+@ng A$$5@(3 hahaha glad to see you got through it though! best of luck
Anywho, if you want to rebuild, i have a BNIB nikki rebuild kit i bought for $30. it's yours for $5 + shipping if your interested. i have no use for it. pm me if interested.
that rear driver side bolt is a PIT *&$^+@ng A$$5@(3 hahaha glad to see you got through it though! best of luck
02-26-14, 09:12 PM
#40
That mitsubishi thing on the tower is not called an Electronic Disentangulator, I totally made it up. Also, I had it mixed up with the purge valve, which sits on another tower in the rat's nest. Sorry for the confusion.
So I checked some diagrams and took a look at the rat's nest. The mitsubishi thing is actually the vacuum switch, it has a tube that runs into a T which runs up to a nipple sticking out from under the air cleaner. which is the idle compensator (the "honker" is the coasting valve, or "shutter" valve, that sits down at the base of the carb. When it goes bad it makes a honking sound). The red and black wires coming out of the vacuum switch connect into a green connecter coming off the wiring harness just behind the alternator.
The other end of the hose coming out of the T, on the hose sticking downward, connects into a metal tube that's sticking straight up on the rat's nest. I think it's the one you see in this picture just above the rear rotor housing:
Here' a little video that might help give a perspective of what it looks like all put together, although it's not good on a lot of the hose connections:
I'll get that solenoid in the mail soon, that break in the vacuum system alone has got to be causing some problems.
And ShOObs, if JB doesn't want that carb rebuild kit I'd be happy to give it a good home!
So I checked some diagrams and took a look at the rat's nest. The mitsubishi thing is actually the vacuum switch, it has a tube that runs into a T which runs up to a nipple sticking out from under the air cleaner. which is the idle compensator (the "honker" is the coasting valve, or "shutter" valve, that sits down at the base of the carb. When it goes bad it makes a honking sound). The red and black wires coming out of the vacuum switch connect into a green connecter coming off the wiring harness just behind the alternator.
The other end of the hose coming out of the T, on the hose sticking downward, connects into a metal tube that's sticking straight up on the rat's nest. I think it's the one you see in this picture just above the rear rotor housing:
Here' a little video that might help give a perspective of what it looks like all put together, although it's not good on a lot of the hose connections:
I'll get that solenoid in the mail soon, that break in the vacuum system alone has got to be causing some problems.
And ShOObs, if JB doesn't want that carb rebuild kit I'd be happy to give it a good home!
02-27-14, 10:15 AM
#41
Ray, thanks! I think this is helpful, name notwithstanding. 
Hopefully, I'll be able to get back to this tonight. I'd hoped to take a look at it Tuesday night, but that was dedicated to emergency ballast replacement for the kitchen light. :-/
Hopefully, I'll be able to get back to this tonight. I'd hoped to take a look at it Tuesday night, but that was dedicated to emergency ballast replacement for the kitchen light. :-/
02-27-14, 07:30 PM
#42
Thanks to Ray's helpful video, pictures, and so vivid description, I think I've found where the vacuum switch links back into the series of metal tubes. Had I looked harder, I think I would have found it right away. It was hidden beneath everything else.
If I plug the hole in that first solenoid, and the corresponding connection for it, will I be okay to drive the car?
Thanks again!
If I plug the hole in that first solenoid, and the corresponding connection for it, will I be okay to drive the car?
Thanks again!
03-01-14, 06:39 PM
#44
Ha Ha.
Ray - I've driven it a bit. I don't seem to be having any issues with coolant leaking, and I think I've kicked my smokin' problem. I used good ol' redneck repair mechanisms to secure the vacuum leak created by the broken solenoid nipple. Of course, I'll fix this soon.
I appreciate everyone's input. Taking the carb and intake off was quite a learning experience for me. Bonus - I suppose 1/2 of the coolant was changed as part of this process, considering how much spilled down the engine block. I was smart enough to have a big-and-deep pan under the car when I did that.
Chris - thanks for the carb rebuild kit. I may have to send it to Ray as a thank you present.
Ray - I've driven it a bit. I don't seem to be having any issues with coolant leaking, and I think I've kicked my smokin' problem. I used good ol' redneck repair mechanisms to secure the vacuum leak created by the broken solenoid nipple. Of course, I'll fix this soon.
I appreciate everyone's input. Taking the carb and intake off was quite a learning experience for me. Bonus - I suppose 1/2 of the coolant was changed as part of this process, considering how much spilled down the engine block. I was smart enough to have a big-and-deep pan under the car when I did that.
Chris - thanks for the carb rebuild kit. I may have to send it to Ray as a thank you present.
03-04-14, 02:56 AM
#46
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03-11-14, 05:13 AM
#49
carb whisperer
Ive always assumed they were just faux emissions equipment that mazda put there to make it appear that it was environmentally friendly. :P Ive had several rx7's and I never had one that all of those solenoids worked haha
03-31-14, 12:12 PM
#50
Just wanted to follow up - now that the weather appears to have cleared, I've been driving the car some. Everything seems good. Thanks to Ray, my rat's nest appears complete. I really appreciate everyone's input - this was a valuable learning lesson for me.
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