I have alot of play in the steering of my '82 GSL. I just replaced the idler arm bushings so I know that isn't the cause. All the tie rod ends look ok too. Does the steering box need somekind of adjustment or might it need to be replaced? Do these boxes wear quickly? The car only has 157 000 kms (98 000 miles) on it. Any opinions/suggestions or solutions based on experience?

Toughguy

 

You need to take a look at Steering Gear Restoration By Bobrx-7

 

speaking of the steering box adjustment. is there any secret to doing this on the 84-85's? do i have to find that large of a socket or have you guys found a trick on breaking the locknut loose?

 

Thanks inittab, I will give that a shot.

Toughguy

 

[QUOTE]speaking of the steering box adjustment. is there any secret to doing this on the 84-85's? do i have to find that large of a socket or have you guys found a trick on breaking the locknut loose?


I jsut completed this on my '85 SE - You'll need the socket - It's a bi@@h even having the socket (there's no room to work with anything other than a socket). You'll also need a breaker bar and lots of WD40. Bobrx7's write up is very good and explains how the socket needs to be ground down first. The brass ring / nut on the back by the column is the hardest one to break loose. Use a heavy punch rather than a chisel or you will cut the nut off - I first used the chisel to cut a notch to fit the punch. Once you've got all the nuts loosened, it's trial and error until all these very precise adjustments are made correctly. Once completed (took me several days of testing), it's well worth it.

 

good god. i'm not sure if i'm all about that. my 79 was easy as hell to do. not sure what mazda was smoking on the change to the 84-85. what size socket?

 

I used a 1 9/16" (or 40mm) - both will work but I couldn't find a 40mm

 

Northern 7,

I'm about to try this mod..... i know it's been awhile since this thread, do you remembered how much you had to turn your adjustment screw?

 

bump bump bump

 

I'd like to try this, too. I suspect everyone's adjustment is going to be different. I hope mine needs a lot. The instructions say adjust a tiny bit at a time, then check for resistance. Sounds like it'll take a lot of patience.

 

The adjustment screw is the last step and is only used to fine tune. Once you have the column preload right (and this requires very little adjustment - about an 1/8" cloclwise in my case) , I moved on to the 14mm and finally the screw. Before you get to the screw, you loosen off the 40mm retaining nut and then just snug up the 14mm nut - once it begins t feel snug - stop, snug up the 40mm nut and take it for a drive. If it needs a little more adjsutment after you test drive, use the screw rather than going back to the 14mm. Once you have that fine turned, tighten up the 40mm.

It's important to note that most of the slop will not be adjusted with this screw. I can't tell you how much to adjust because it depends on each application. Get the first tow adjustements down and you'll realize the screw is not that important. FWIW, I adjusted mine out about a turn - any yes, mine tightened up by turning the screw out or counter clockwise.

This is more than you asked for but I had to include it all for you to understasnd the screw adjustment. And like I said earlier, I messed with this for several days before I got it right - and BTW, its still tight

 

I do not know about you guys but the 1 9/16 socket does not fit!!! I got it from auto zone for like 9 bucks, and it does not gor over the nut because it is just a little two small.
40mm = 1.5748 inches
1 9/16 = 39.6875mm
You guys must be getting sockets that are not a precise as mine, if so were did you guys get your 1 9/16 socket?
BTW I have my steering box out which will make it easer in some ways, I am going to use a big cresent wrench to get the nut off, I also bought a seal kit from mazda and going to replace them to fix a leak. I have a replacement gearbox in there now with only about a half inch of play which is better than the almost 2 inches on the old box that I am rebuilding.
PS I am also fixing the colapsable columb to get the movement out of it while it is out.

 

Silly question, but how much easier is all this, if the engine is out of the car?

 

much easier since you have room to work with, when the engine is in you do not have the room needed to losen the 40mm nut without the aid of the extension and breaker bar. With the motor out you could do without the ex, or just you a cresent wrench, and a cheater bar.

 

I ran in to the same problem with the 1 9/16" socket I bought from NAPA for $25! After ground the lip off of it the SOB wouldn't fit. I tried enlarging it some with a Dremel tool but it was a 12 point socket and it just started to round off the nut when I used it. I've looked all over the place for a six point 40mm but can't find one. I'd really appreciate it if any one could tell me where they bought a 40mm six point socket recently.
Thanks

 

Why dont you put Rack and Pinion in your car insted of messin with that junk Mazda gave us, much easier.
And you will be much happier with the results.

 

Half a millimeter isn't much on some things but a world of difference on others.

Why not just get a 40mm socket?

 

The 1 9/16" will fit but you have to tap it on. That brass nut has rounded corners and it's soft so precision to the degree that we are talking here is not an issue - chances are, a 40 mm 12 pt will round it off due to the soft round points on this nut. I couldn't find or order a 6 pt - typically very large sockets are 12 pt due to the problems associated with 6 pt when trying to set the socket on the bolt and have room to move your ratchet (probably a better way to explain that). Anyway, the above works or can be made to work and will give you a very tight fit which is what you need on this thin, soft nut -

 

Iwould get a 40, If I could find one. If will pay if anyone can get one.

 

If you have the box out, you don't need a socket - afterall, this nut was not designed to be removed with a socket - it actually requires a large wrench as per the manual. That's also the reason a lot of guys are rounding them off with the 40mm socket - the points are rounded and soft and do not lend well to a socket - FWIW, just trying to save you some time and money

 

Just got home and since the highway has grooves from trucks my car was all over the place at times. Kinda freaky at first I have more than 1 inch of play I believe.

Gotta get this **** fixed. Luckily for me I have no a/c so I have a clear view of everything. I'm gonna take some pictures and hopefuuly someone on here and explain what is what exactly.

 

I am going to take pic and add them to my site within a week, I will start with factory instructions on removal adjustment and reinstall, I found it explained it a little better than bobrx7 write up. I will be adding pics as I go as well. I just bought a dial indicater and a 15 in cresent wrench which I should get within a week so that I can compleate the job. Iam also replacing the oil seals.
the box I took out had about 1.57 inches of play in it which is the supposed limit, the replacemnt has maybe half an inch of play which is so much better, but I will be going for perfection with my rebuild.

 

That would be awesome if you could do something like that....

Meanwhile I'm gonna see what I can do about mine...

do you guys know how much time this job would take roughly? More than 2 hours? (after you get the hard to get nuts off)

 

I have read alot about changing the steering gear to a rack and pinion- but is the problem the RX7 steering gear or just age and wear on the gear. I remember driving an 84 GSL in 87 (a friend's mother's car) and it steering just as good as than the rack and pinion car I was driving (GLC). Why not just put a new steering box on the car? Isn't that easier and cheaper than a rack and pinion conversion?

 

I change the whole box out and put a replacement in with in 2 hours, that was including all the hard stuff. I did have a friend help me out though. Rebuilding I think will take about 1-2 hours so that I dont rush and mess anything up.

I can get a new gear box for 579.00 at my local dealer, only because I can get it shop cost, it is normally 850.00 us.