Had the POS Racer out at a Solo II event yesterday, and noticed the clutch is slippin bad, the throw out bearing also roars and needs replaced, so I guess it’s time to hoist her up in the air, and replace that clutch.

What clutch and pressure plate units do you recommend? (Don’t want to spend a ton of cash on the project)

Is this a relatively easy project, I’ve changed the clutch in a Triumph TR6 a few years back, but haven’t tackled this project on the POS Racer.

I greatly appreciate your insight on this project.

 

P.O.S.

Replaced clutch on my GSL-SE 'bout a month ago. Didn't want cheap, but I'm not a Drag Racer, so I went with quality...A Sachs Borg/Beck....Cost for me, not too bad, $155.

Make sure you label all the electric lines so that you put 'em back together correctly. The toughest part for me was the removal of the bellhousing/trans, and putting it back up....I was mostly by myself, on my back on a creeper....Used my floor jack and a bottle jack to help with lowering and raising. Sachs provides a clutch alignment tool which you will obviously need. Oh, it's also a good time to drain the trans oil and replace it with synthetic. Don't forget to pour some down into the the shifter mechanism and top it off. Watch that you don't damage the electrical connector that's on the side of the trans. It's plastic and vulnerable.

I'm very pleased with the results...Don't forget a "break-in" period, and hopelfully your flywheel isn't burned/glazed/gouched by exposed rivets. Mine wasn't.

Go get 'em, Cowboy
Denny, from the 'ol corncrib...

 

I saw this one on Ebay if you are interested. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...595724&r=0&t=0 . It looks similar to the one I put in my GSL-SE about 3 months back, mine cost 185.00 Canadian. So this seems not bad.

Regards
Jim

 

what's the average milage you guys get on the OEM clutch? I've got 85k on mine and I can't tell if it's the clutch slipping or the slave cyl. that's leaking. (of course, it's possable that it's both, cuz I know the slave cyl is leaking)

 

What exactly is your clutch doing? A slipping clutch and leaky cylinder are two entirely different problems with entirely different sypmtoms. With a leaky slave cylinder you'll eventually find that the clutch will fail to fully disengage with the pedal depressed resulting in grinding and difficulty engaging gears. The symptoms of a slipping clutch are an increase in engine speed without an increase in road speed(usually accompanied by a foul smell ). This is caused by slippage between the clutch components due to worn clutch plate, weak or broken clutch fingers, too much hp ,etc.

 

Well looks like a clutch is going to be less costly then I imagined!

Thanks for the link rreader. Has anyone run a Daiken Clutch, the one on E-Bay looks like it includes everything you’d need. Has anyone bought one of these from this guy on e-bay? Was it a positive experience? It almost seems to good to be true at $120.00.

Denny, did your clutch kit include all the same goodies? Have used Beck parts in the past, recall it being good stuff.

I appreciate all your help!

 

Well I *know* the slave leaks. The puddle on the bellhousing and having to top off the master every couple weeks was a sure indication

The issue is the car occasionally surges uphill when I'm accelerating past 1/2 throttle or so. I'm trying to track down the problem. Occasionally there will be a foul smell but that's usually after some WOT acceleration. I doubt that I've got too much HP (boy oh boy do I wish ), I'm betting that if it's the clutch, it's just wear on the disc. Even so, under much gentler driving, the clutch engages pretty smooth and firmly, the only time I can feel it slip with my foot off the pedal is when I'm being naughty on the side roads and I bang the next higher gear at 7krpm.

I didn't want to have to replace the clutch until I decide what I'm going to do with the car (turbo, all out n/a tune, "mostly stock", ect..)... oh well, this might push my hand a little.

--matt

 

Yeah, it does sound like it's a slipping clutch you have there.

 

i guess that cuts the time I have to decide what to do with the car. So I think I'm going to try and get as much out of the engine in NA form, since total downtime for the car will be small compared to the time it will prolly take to swap in a 13BT...

oh well, it might keep me in street prepared if I do it this way too

--matt

 

One more Ebay link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...item=597669971

Regards
Jim

 

The answer to all your problems

 

Thanks for the link rreader. Has anyone run a Daiken Clutch, the one on E-Bay looks like it includes everything you’d need. Has anyone bought one of these from this guy on e-bay? Was it a positive experience? It almost seems to good to be true at $120.00.

 

daiken is a brand of clutch lining. its ok for stock engine.

 

Something tells me that might be a little bit heftier than what I need

Speaking of, anyone have a suggestion for a car that's lightly modded, and will be daily driven during the summer, and regularly auto-x'd?

--matt

 

Racing Beat Heavy Duty Street/Strip. It's a full face organic clutch, sprung hub, but with a solid marcel (fast engagement and disengagement; better for the synchros). The pressure plate is something like 20% heavier. With a SS clutch line ($22), it is an awesome combo, IMHO. I did a full write up with pictures and prices --> Clutch Job.

 

Thanks, Blake! Great Information and Write-up!

Come to find out my weekend was already fully scheduled (You married guys with a kid would understand), so the POS Racer didn’t get any attention this weekend.

I’m contemplating just running the POS Racer this coming weekend and see how she does, this is the last ER event of the season so I may just push it and finish out the season on what I have, then she can go up in the air and get all the bits I have on the list replaced.

Other than tearing up the flywheel and the remnants of the old clutch what other problems could I experience by pushing for this last event?

Oh yea, I called around to see what a shop would charge to replace the clutch, “best” deal I found was $550.00.

 

If you have replaced a clutch in a rear drive before this is a fairly straightforward job, just time consuming.

Once you have done it enough (note: don’t buy cheap clutches! ) you can get it down to four hours or so.

Scott

P.S. Cheap parts store Clutches can EXPLODE!If you drive like me. ( I hope nobody else does.)

PPS The Bonz Street/Strip is holding up great but cost a pretty penny. $300 I think. And it is a bit stiffer than stock.

 

Nah....twin plates are the answer to all your clutch slipping needs!

 

yeah, if you've got a turbo the size of your head and pockets like the Mariana's trench