Slippin Clutch
#1
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Slippin Clutch
Had the POS Racer out at a Solo II event yesterday, and noticed the clutch is slippin bad, the throw out bearing also roars and needs replaced, so I guess it’s time to hoist her up in the air, and replace that clutch.
What clutch and pressure plate units do you recommend? (Don’t want to spend a ton of cash on the project)
Is this a relatively easy project, I’ve changed the clutch in a Triumph TR6 a few years back, but haven’t tackled this project on the POS Racer.
I greatly appreciate your insight on this project.
What clutch and pressure plate units do you recommend? (Don’t want to spend a ton of cash on the project)
Is this a relatively easy project, I’ve changed the clutch in a Triumph TR6 a few years back, but haven’t tackled this project on the POS Racer.
I greatly appreciate your insight on this project.
#2
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P.O.S.
Replaced clutch on my GSL-SE 'bout a month ago. Didn't want cheap, but I'm not a Drag Racer, so I went with quality...A Sachs Borg/Beck....Cost for me, not too bad, $155.
Make sure you label all the electric lines so that you put 'em back together correctly. The toughest part for me was the removal of the bellhousing/trans, and putting it back up....I was mostly by myself, on my back on a creeper....Used my floor jack and a bottle jack to help with lowering and raising. Sachs provides a clutch alignment tool which you will obviously need. Oh, it's also a good time to drain the trans oil and replace it with synthetic. Don't forget to pour some down into the the shifter mechanism and top it off. Watch that you don't damage the electrical connector that's on the side of the trans. It's plastic and vulnerable.
I'm very pleased with the results...Don't forget a "break-in" period, and hopelfully your flywheel isn't burned/glazed/gouched by exposed rivets. Mine wasn't.
Go get 'em, Cowboy
Denny, from the 'ol corncrib...
Replaced clutch on my GSL-SE 'bout a month ago. Didn't want cheap, but I'm not a Drag Racer, so I went with quality...A Sachs Borg/Beck....Cost for me, not too bad, $155.
Make sure you label all the electric lines so that you put 'em back together correctly. The toughest part for me was the removal of the bellhousing/trans, and putting it back up....I was mostly by myself, on my back on a creeper....Used my floor jack and a bottle jack to help with lowering and raising. Sachs provides a clutch alignment tool which you will obviously need. Oh, it's also a good time to drain the trans oil and replace it with synthetic. Don't forget to pour some down into the the shifter mechanism and top it off. Watch that you don't damage the electrical connector that's on the side of the trans. It's plastic and vulnerable.
I'm very pleased with the results...Don't forget a "break-in" period, and hopelfully your flywheel isn't burned/glazed/gouched by exposed rivets. Mine wasn't.
Go get 'em, Cowboy
Denny, from the 'ol corncrib...
#3
I saw this one on Ebay if you are interested. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...595724&r=0&t=0 . It looks similar to the one I put in my GSL-SE about 3 months back, mine cost 185.00 Canadian. So this seems not bad.
Regards
Jim
Regards
Jim
#4
8krpm is not enough
what's the average milage you guys get on the OEM clutch? I've got 85k on mine and I can't tell if it's the clutch slipping or the slave cyl. that's leaking. (of course, it's possable that it's both, cuz I know the slave cyl is leaking)
#5
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Originally posted by speckamp
what's the average milage you guys get on the OEM clutch? I've got 85k on mine and I can't tell if it's the clutch slipping or the slave cyl. that's leaking. (of course, it's possable that it's both, cuz I know the slave cyl is leaking)
what's the average milage you guys get on the OEM clutch? I've got 85k on mine and I can't tell if it's the clutch slipping or the slave cyl. that's leaking. (of course, it's possable that it's both, cuz I know the slave cyl is leaking)
#6
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Well looks like a clutch is going to be less costly then I imagined!
Thanks for the link rreader. Has anyone run a Daiken Clutch, the one on E-Bay looks like it includes everything you’d need. Has anyone bought one of these from this guy on e-bay? Was it a positive experience? It almost seems to good to be true at $120.00.
Denny, did your clutch kit include all the same goodies? Have used Beck parts in the past, recall it being good stuff.
I appreciate all your help!
Thanks for the link rreader. Has anyone run a Daiken Clutch, the one on E-Bay looks like it includes everything you’d need. Has anyone bought one of these from this guy on e-bay? Was it a positive experience? It almost seems to good to be true at $120.00.
Denny, did your clutch kit include all the same goodies? Have used Beck parts in the past, recall it being good stuff.
I appreciate all your help!
#7
8krpm is not enough
Originally posted by REVHED
What exactly is your clutch doing? A slipping clutch and leaky cylinder are two entirely different problems with entirely different sypmtoms. With a leaky slave cylinder you'll eventually find that the clutch will fail to fully disengage with the pedal depressed resulting in grinding and difficulty engaging gears. The symptoms of a slipping clutch are an increase in engine speed without an increase in road speed(usually accompanied by a foul smell ). This is caused by slippage between the clutch components due to worn clutch plate, weak or broken clutch fingers, too much hp ,etc.
What exactly is your clutch doing? A slipping clutch and leaky cylinder are two entirely different problems with entirely different sypmtoms. With a leaky slave cylinder you'll eventually find that the clutch will fail to fully disengage with the pedal depressed resulting in grinding and difficulty engaging gears. The symptoms of a slipping clutch are an increase in engine speed without an increase in road speed(usually accompanied by a foul smell ). This is caused by slippage between the clutch components due to worn clutch plate, weak or broken clutch fingers, too much hp ,etc.
The issue is the car occasionally surges uphill when I'm accelerating past 1/2 throttle or so. I'm trying to track down the problem. Occasionally there will be a foul smell but that's usually after some WOT acceleration. I doubt that I've got too much HP (boy oh boy do I wish ), I'm betting that if it's the clutch, it's just wear on the disc. Even so, under much gentler driving, the clutch engages pretty smooth and firmly, the only time I can feel it slip with my foot off the pedal is when I'm being naughty on the side roads and I bang the next higher gear at 7krpm.
I didn't want to have to replace the clutch until I decide what I'm going to do with the car (turbo, all out n/a tune, "mostly stock", ect..)... oh well, this might push my hand a little.
--matt
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#9
8krpm is not enough
i guess that cuts the time I have to decide what to do with the car. So I think I'm going to try and get as much out of the engine in NA form, since total downtime for the car will be small compared to the time it will prolly take to swap in a 13BT...
oh well, it might keep me in street prepared if I do it this way too
--matt
oh well, it might keep me in street prepared if I do it this way too
--matt
#10
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Thanks for the link rreader. Has anyone run a Daiken Clutch, the one on E-Bay looks like it includes everything you’d need. Has anyone bought one of these from this guy on e-bay? Was it a positive experience? It almost seems to good to be true at $120.00.
#14
8krpm is not enough
Originally posted by AJC13B
The answer to all your problems
The answer to all your problems
Speaking of, anyone have a suggestion for a car that's lightly modded, and will be daily driven during the summer, and regularly auto-x'd?
--matt
#15
Originally posted by speckamp
Something tells me that might be a little bit heftier than what I need
Speaking of, anyone have a suggestion for a car that's lightly modded, and will be daily driven during the summer, and regularly auto-x'd?
--matt
Something tells me that might be a little bit heftier than what I need
Speaking of, anyone have a suggestion for a car that's lightly modded, and will be daily driven during the summer, and regularly auto-x'd?
--matt
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Thanks, Blake! Great Information and Write-up!
Come to find out my weekend was already fully scheduled (You married guys with a kid would understand), so the POS Racer didn’t get any attention this weekend.
I’m contemplating just running the POS Racer this coming weekend and see how she does, this is the last ER event of the season so I may just push it and finish out the season on what I have, then she can go up in the air and get all the bits I have on the list replaced.
Other than tearing up the flywheel and the remnants of the old clutch what other problems could I experience by pushing for this last event?
Oh yea, I called around to see what a shop would charge to replace the clutch, “best” deal I found was $550.00.
Come to find out my weekend was already fully scheduled (You married guys with a kid would understand), so the POS Racer didn’t get any attention this weekend.
I’m contemplating just running the POS Racer this coming weekend and see how she does, this is the last ER event of the season so I may just push it and finish out the season on what I have, then she can go up in the air and get all the bits I have on the list replaced.
Other than tearing up the flywheel and the remnants of the old clutch what other problems could I experience by pushing for this last event?
Oh yea, I called around to see what a shop would charge to replace the clutch, “best” deal I found was $550.00.
#17
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If you have replaced a clutch in a rear drive before this is a fairly straightforward job, just time consuming.
Once you have done it enough (note: don’t buy cheap clutches! ) you can get it down to four hours or so.
Scott
P.S. Cheap parts store Clutches can EXPLODE!If you drive like me. ( I hope nobody else does.)
PPS The Bonz Street/Strip is holding up great but cost a pretty penny. $300 I think. And it is a bit stiffer than stock.
Once you have done it enough (note: don’t buy cheap clutches! ) you can get it down to four hours or so.
Scott
P.S. Cheap parts store Clutches can EXPLODE!If you drive like me. ( I hope nobody else does.)
PPS The Bonz Street/Strip is holding up great but cost a pretty penny. $300 I think. And it is a bit stiffer than stock.
#18
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Originally posted by speckamp
Something tells me that might be a little bit heftier than what I need
Something tells me that might be a little bit heftier than what I need
#19
8krpm is not enough
Originally posted by AJC13B
Nah....twin plates are the answer to all your clutch slipping needs!
Nah....twin plates are the answer to all your clutch slipping needs!
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