I noticed my clutch fluid gradually diminished during the last 2 weeks.(no problem with the clutch releasing) I moved the rubber boot around the slave clutch cylinder and it was WET! I guess I will have to replace it soon. Since I have never done one of these jobs. I am wondering if there is any trick to it. After removing the bad slave cylinder, do you just put the push rod end into the "hole" or do you have to aline it in any way? Do you guys recommend to replace the master cylinder as well.( it seems ok to me) Thanks in advance. By the way, my car is 85gsl-se.

Jeff

 

the little rod that pushes on the fork just sits between the piston and the fork, and is held in place by pressure... that's all. Just put the new slave cylinder in place with the rod between the fork and the piston (inside the hole in the rubber outer boot) and bolt it down. Should be it.

Jeff

 

Oh, and as far as I know, they suggest to replace the slave and master cylinders at the same time, however, it's not absolutely necessary. It's just like replacing headlights... they suggest to replace both, going by the fact that if one went, the other's probably pretty close to being ready to go, although... how many people actually replace both at the same time?

Jeff (you stole my name)

 

Yeah make sure you replace both at the same time. Just like headlights, one may go before the other one does and vice versa. Mazdatrix sells what you need. Master Cylinder part # 41-400A-FA66 for $65.43 and Slave Cylinder part # 41-9200-FA01 for $44.86 for your GSL-SE. I have done this job of replacing both and it was quite simple. Make sure your master/slave cyl. line is in good shape too. The hardest part of this job is finding a friend to come over and help you bleed the clutch.

 

U don't need anyone to help bleed them, u can do it by urself. I use an empty 20oz drink bottle and small vac hose that will fit snuggly on the bleeder. Put a small hole in the top of the plastic lid of the bottle that the hose will just fit into. Make sure the hose is long enough for one end of it to be submersed when u fill the bottle about 2-3 inches of brake fluid, and still reach the bleeders. Open the bleeder and pump the peddle. As long as the hose is down in the fluid, it wont draw air when u release, or pull the peddle off the floor. This will also work for brakes. Good luck!

 

You may not need to replace the clutch slave cylinder if it is rebuildable. Once you get the slave cylinder removed, disassemble it and inspect the bore. If it is not too badly pitted or scored, you just need to hone the bore and replace the piston and it's rubber seal, which come in a rebuild kit. Rebuild kits are much cheaper than a whole new cylinder. -WG

 

Once again, thanks for all the support. I just ordered replacement parts from mazdatrix and I will let everyone know how my project goes when I finish. My only concern is acccessibility to the darn cylinder. I might have to remove the oil filter first.

Jeff

 

It ain't that hard to get to, just two bolts and it's off.

You can get the master and slave cylinders at any Auto Parts store...they don't have to be Mazdatrix or Mazda...

Right on.

 

I've done this job several times on a 12a with the stinking oil cooler in the way. On an SE should be a piece of cake--pulling the filter even makes it easier.

 

I just did mine last week (both slave and master ) and it probably would have been alot easier to remove the oil filter. I also had to buy a one man brake bleeder kit to make bleeding it easier. It was only $7.

 

Yea.. don't go to Mazdatrix for those cylinders... on my old SE, I had to replace the slave and master.. I got a new slave, new master and the rubber hose from NAPA and the total cost was under $65.. looked identical to the old ones, too... oh, and the hardest part of the whole thing is getting the old lines off. Everything else is a cakewalk..

--Danny