Silverrotor's FD-into-FB Alts being discontinued
#1
Silverrotor's FD-into-FB Alts being discontinued
Hey Guys,
I've been asked to inform you all that Silverrotor (the moderator of the Canadian Section and a registered vendor on the forum) will be discontinuing his FD-into-FB alternator kits on September 1st.
I don't know how many of you know of the kits, so I'll give a little briefing:
The kit comes with a brand new 100AMP FD alternator, either a single or dual belt pulley and the main connector. It mounts into an FB with relative ease (I've got one on my car, for those of you who missed the thread... which amazingly I can't find right now ).
I'm pretty sure there are still kits available, so if any of you would still like one, you can PM Silverrotor for details on pricing and shipping.
For any questions on how to mount one in an FB, you can PM me.
Jon
I've been asked to inform you all that Silverrotor (the moderator of the Canadian Section and a registered vendor on the forum) will be discontinuing his FD-into-FB alternator kits on September 1st.
I don't know how many of you know of the kits, so I'll give a little briefing:
The kit comes with a brand new 100AMP FD alternator, either a single or dual belt pulley and the main connector. It mounts into an FB with relative ease (I've got one on my car, for those of you who missed the thread... which amazingly I can't find right now ).
I'm pretty sure there are still kits available, so if any of you would still like one, you can PM Silverrotor for details on pricing and shipping.
For any questions on how to mount one in an FB, you can PM me.
Jon
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Thank you vipernicus42!
As good things come to an end I can say the same In this case.
I will no longer be selling FD Alternator Kits come September 1st, this will be the last day!
This Is primarily due to the simple fact that my reserves are coming to an end. Should I find that I am no longer In a position to accomadate members orders than I will report back to notify the community.
All In all I have sold a decent amount of FD Alts to the FB crowd. Sadly, you guys need It the most. I really do hope you get the lion share of the remaining reserves.
Thanks for allowing me to have a role In your RX-7.
It has been a great experience!
Details can be found below and you may PM me should you have any questions.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=363910
As good things come to an end I can say the same In this case.
I will no longer be selling FD Alternator Kits come September 1st, this will be the last day!
This Is primarily due to the simple fact that my reserves are coming to an end. Should I find that I am no longer In a position to accomadate members orders than I will report back to notify the community.
All In all I have sold a decent amount of FD Alts to the FB crowd. Sadly, you guys need It the most. I really do hope you get the lion share of the remaining reserves.
Thanks for allowing me to have a role In your RX-7.
It has been a great experience!
Details can be found below and you may PM me should you have any questions.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=363910
#3
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Posts: 7,835
Received 502 Likes
on
340 Posts
As far as obtaining the kit AFTER it's discontinued, what all would be involved?
So a simple 6 inches of wire from the B terminal of the alternator to the S terminal should suffice for the wiring changes. Splice the L wire in.
Mounting is just a change in bolt/nut. Maybe some washers for a spacer.
And then pulley which can be sourced from Higgi on this forum. http://rx7cz.net/shop/
That should be it, right?
I'm not trying to rip you off, as it'd be nice to have a fully tested brand new alternator rather than rebuilt or junkyard... But After next month, Might not have a choice and it could potentially be cheaper. (Although addage, "you get what you pay for" applies.)
So a simple 6 inches of wire from the B terminal of the alternator to the S terminal should suffice for the wiring changes. Splice the L wire in.
Mounting is just a change in bolt/nut. Maybe some washers for a spacer.
And then pulley which can be sourced from Higgi on this forum. http://rx7cz.net/shop/
That should be it, right?
I'm not trying to rip you off, as it'd be nice to have a fully tested brand new alternator rather than rebuilt or junkyard... But After next month, Might not have a choice and it could potentially be cheaper. (Although addage, "you get what you pay for" applies.)
#4
RX-7 Alumni
I've had one of silverrotor's FD alternator for about 9 months now and have had no problems with it. If you are in need of a larger alternator up to 100 A then this one is for you.
The install was no problem. Oh yea, remember this is an S4 turbo engine, however the electrical harness I used was off the FB. As far as the electrical wiring, I followed silverrotor's directions. I did have to add one new power wire, but that was a nobrainer.
Here's a nice pic of the alternator installed:
The install was no problem. Oh yea, remember this is an S4 turbo engine, however the electrical harness I used was off the FB. As far as the electrical wiring, I followed silverrotor's directions. I did have to add one new power wire, but that was a nobrainer.
Here's a nice pic of the alternator installed:
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
-You eliminate the R Terminal (stock wiring)
-Join L->L Terminal
-Join S Terminal Into 12v constant source
Everything else sounds correct with the bolt combo. Just make sure It's narrow enough to pass through the ear of the Alt.
Rex4Life: great update on your chronicale thread.
-Join L->L Terminal
-Join S Terminal Into 12v constant source
Everything else sounds correct with the bolt combo. Just make sure It's narrow enough to pass through the ear of the Alt.
Rex4Life: great update on your chronicale thread.
#6
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Posts: 7,835
Received 502 Likes
on
340 Posts
Would hooking the "S" terminal on the alternator direct to the B terminal on the alternator (Large wire, main output of the alt.) suffice?
Or would it be a better idea to run a wire all the way back to the battery + terminal?
Or would it be a better idea to run a wire all the way back to the battery + terminal?
Trending Topics
#8
I think the gist of this thread is that if you want to buy, get it now;
AND
silverrotor if you have any plans, tricks, advice, or useful info on how to do this ourselves would you please release it to the community? It seems that its not an usual or hard modification, but you're obviously doing something right and doing it better than a DIY project to be selling these conversions.
AND
silverrotor if you have any plans, tricks, advice, or useful info on how to do this ourselves would you please release it to the community? It seems that its not an usual or hard modification, but you're obviously doing something right and doing it better than a DIY project to be selling these conversions.
#9
Originally Posted by clubber
I hooked the S and B terminals just like you asked about and it's been working swell for the last couple of months.
If it was that easy, why wouldn't they have connected the S and B terminals internally? Why *have* two terminals?
So I figured that the big honkin one is recharging the battery, but of course will always carry whatever the alt is pushing out. The smaller one tells the voltage regulator how much current the alt should be producing, so it needs an accurate read of what the battery's got for voltage.
Now remember, I may have a Computer Science degree and know how to solder, but don't mistake that for me having any clue when it comes to stuff like this. So I could be WAY off on my assessment.... But they must have had some reason for running two seperate wires. Just the same, I ran a seperate wire just to be safe. Its not like 20ga wire is really hard to find or expensive to buy, and I just ran it across where my other wires run.
Jon
#10
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
nevarmore: aside from the FD Alternator Itself you will need a Harness Plug suitable for the FD Alt and a Pulley machined to accomade the pulley shaft. There Is no "tricks" or the like being thrown here, not even an enigma.
Through the help of good people I am just able to combine the above to the community...but as It stands I am coming to an end with my sells.
It goes without saying that I have many members that can vouch for the overall betterness their FB/FC has felt from when doing this conversion.
Through the help of good people I am just able to combine the above to the community...but as It stands I am coming to an end with my sells.
It goes without saying that I have many members that can vouch for the overall betterness their FB/FC has felt from when doing this conversion.
#11
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Posts: 7,835
Received 502 Likes
on
340 Posts
Originally Posted by vipernicus42
You see, I thought of that, but then another thought occurred to me:
If it was that easy, why wouldn't they have connected the S and B terminals internally? Why *have* two terminals?
So I figured that the big honkin one is recharging the battery, but of course will always carry whatever the alt is pushing out. The smaller one tells the voltage regulator how much current the alt should be producing, so it needs an accurate read of what the battery's got for voltage.
Now remember, I may have a Computer Science degree and know how to solder, but don't mistake that for me having any clue when it comes to stuff like this. So I could be WAY off on my assessment.... But they must have had some reason for running two seperate wires. Just the same, I ran a seperate wire just to be safe. Its not like 20ga wire is really hard to find or expensive to buy, and I just ran it across where my other wires run.
Jon
If it was that easy, why wouldn't they have connected the S and B terminals internally? Why *have* two terminals?
So I figured that the big honkin one is recharging the battery, but of course will always carry whatever the alt is pushing out. The smaller one tells the voltage regulator how much current the alt should be producing, so it needs an accurate read of what the battery's got for voltage.
Now remember, I may have a Computer Science degree and know how to solder, but don't mistake that for me having any clue when it comes to stuff like this. So I could be WAY off on my assessment.... But they must have had some reason for running two seperate wires. Just the same, I ran a seperate wire just to be safe. Its not like 20ga wire is really hard to find or expensive to buy, and I just ran it across where my other wires run.
Jon
That's RIGHT! Remote sense...
It compensates for voltage loss across the electrical system...
I'd actually tie it into something that may run off a fuse in the interior fuse box... Perhaps off the "Engine" fuse. Or failing that, right off the battery side of the main fusible link. Install it's own 10 Amp fuse.