So it squirts fuel in if you move the shaft, but not if you step on the gas pedal? Once its started, it idles ok? Now it wont start at all?

 

Exactly! I think it'll start I just have to pop the hood move the shaft and go back and start it and it'll fire up on the first crank..

 

And is the throttle cable adjusted ok? Just a little slack?

 

Yup yup, and once the car is started it drives just fine... except that stupid AP but i can worry about that later..

 

Did you mess with the AP linkage at all?

 

nope.. Other than adjusting the little nut for it that'd be it. I think im gonna pull the carb off again and do a thorough inspection of the throttle shaft and its components, its just gotta be something thats loose.

 

Well riddle me this. If you look down in the carb and work the throttle where the cable attaches, does it squirt fuel?

 

I don't think that it does carl... I will check for sure this afternoon when I get home.

 

riddle me this, Carl. I was trying to figure out how it would start when the throttle linkage was moved by hand but not when the pedal was pressed to pump the gas. Maladjusted AP? Or just a too-loose throttle cable? The little cam thingy that the cable attaches to is slipping?

I'm supposed to be working now, so I don't have a carb in front of me to figure this out. Although right now I'd rather have a bottle in front of me.

 

Something along those lines Im thniking.

 

OK hmm. I pulled the carb off brought it back to me work bench and began fiddling with it checking all the linkage.. The AP and everything looked to be dead on, then I noticed that the gasket between the throttle linkage and the fuel bowls was damp, I pulled the carb apart and the gasket was completly soaked in fuel.. Now I didn't pay much attention to to the gasket when I pulled it off (oops) but I wonder if I might have put it on upside down.. Carl, do you think it'll seal up OK if I dry the gasket out and put it back on or do I have to get a new rebuild kit to replace that gasket.. You wouldn't happen to have an extra you'd sell me?

 

Just re-use it. Its a new gasket yes? Then it hasnt taken a real "set". And there is only one way that gasket, and the body to airhorn gasket fits correctly. Line it up using the carb as your guide. If you put it upside down, you may have blocked the idle fuel jet.

 

hey carl.. there's two gaskets I didn't replace when I rebuilt the carb.. One is the very small one that is looks kinda like this "Ooo" the other is triangle shaped, i didnt see these anywhere.. where were they supposed to go?

 

The Ooo one goes under the AP squirter nozzle. The triangle one is for early carbs.

 

nate, did you check whether moving the AP linkage results in a nice squirt of fuel from the nozzle?

While you have the airhorn off, make sure (if you don't know for sure), that you have a weight and check ball in each passage (under nozzle and above AP). Make sure the ball isn't stuck at the bottom of the tube.

 

Yup, i checked it before I took it apart and I was getting a good squirt from the AP.. I think since I have it apart again I am going to replace the floats too just to be sure. When I originally took the carb apart the floats were really out of wack (one was scraping the bottom of the float bowl) and it took me a while to bend all of the tabs and everything back into the correct position (the floats actually were a bit crooked!).

 

Whoa. Don't replace teh floats until you've resolved the other issue. I don't think the floats are the problem. You said you saw the fuel level in the bowls was about 1/2 way, right? So you're getting fuel to the bowls. Unless you're seeing fuel standing in the venturis, the float adjustement sounds right. I still think there's something wrong with the AP and/or AP linkage, since you do OK when you move the throttle shaft by hand and see squirts coming from the nozzles when you do that. Have you tried havin someone else pump the pedal and seeing if you see the same squirt quality?

 

Its not time to throw parts/$ at it yet. Its probably something really simple.

 

Ok ok.. I'll just put it back together, but floats are only like 20 bux and can't hurt right? Anyways im going to put it back together, and get some fuel in the bowls while still on the work bench and make sure it will all work on the bench and then stick it back on the car and we shall see..

 

That's one way to look at it. What I was getting at but didn't state is that troubleshooting is much easier if you change one variable at a time.

 

Ok.. I put it all back together, tested the AP and everything and slapped it back on the car... AND... drum roll please... it doesn't work..

Although I think i have an idea what the problem is, i noticed that when actuating the AP i can hear air.. SO the AP is pumping air and not fuel that got me thinking about the fuel levels while they are supposed to be half I dont think that will work for my situation.. You see the car is parked on a sideways incline, the drivers side is higher than the pass side. SO what im thinking is that the fuel is all running to one side of the bowl leaving the other side "empty".. SO i think i need to adjust the floats so raise the fuel level enough to compensate for this fact... Carl, if you agree i'd appreciate your help and instructions on how to do this properly.. What do i modify and by how much!

Thanks!

 

You hear air when you move the AP lever? Check the diaphragm? Sounds like it might be torn.

IIRC, the inlet for the AP from the fuel bowl is on the driver's side.

 

THe AP worked when it wasn't on the car...

 

The gasket sealer is not going to last, the gas will eat right through it. I saw no mention of this; to find vacuum leaks, stay WD40 around the carb you will hear the engine race up, check and make sure your vacuum lines are connected properly.

 

AP diaphgm should be new, it comes in the carb kit. check for gas leakage around the AP pump, if you have it, bet the diaphagm is torn. Sound like choke problems to me.