MountainScreamer

I took a good look at the car today, and the biggest obstacle is the oil filler tube. The space between it and the faceplate of the carb is about 5 inches. The widest the box/filter could be is around 8.5 inches.

Other than that, it's a lot more cramped than I remembered, even with everything stripped.
I think the box setup would work if the filler neck was rerouted to provide more room for the box. Then the next limiting factors would be the distributor and the oil filter.

My idea in my head for the box is very similar to dj55b's:



This is what the engine bay looks like right now:



82fanTC can you get a picture of your setup? I would like to see the space available with the Lake Cities manifold. I would like to try one out.

82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

I would but car is in storage and I don't plan on heading there until spring. Plus I don't usually show off my engine bay because the whole car is beautiful until you look under the hood and see how careless the rust proofing was applied back in the 80s....lol

Take-7

I ready like the idea of making a small box, leave the top open with a rubber seal around the top. Then run a true hood scoop like the fc3s. when the hood is closed the rubber gasket could seal the box off from engine bay, then just run a thin filter under the hood scoop. Cold air + filter+ box. Win win win, ftw

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

Funny what pops up when you search your name

I thought I'd contribute a bit on this. Yes the oil filler does become a bit of a pain, and I will be changing mine. I don't have the distributor issue that you have though. I'm running a CAS from a second gen and that opens up that space very nicely.

MountainScreamer

Haha I'd never searched it before.

This has taken a backseat here due to school issues. I'm still thinking about it though!!
I have some measurements taken and mocked up a little cardboard box just to see how it would fit in there.
I think that if the oil tube could be lowered as low as possible, then a big 4" tube could be attached in the middle.



I calculated up the volume of the mockup I made and it came out around 300 cubic inches.
Should I be concerned with making it smaller?
Also I just got a beat up S4 engine, so the CAS is very tempting now...

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

I have the lake cities manifold and use a k&n 3 1/4" tall air filter... the filter rests on top of the frame rail. It works. I have to zip tie the filter on instead of using the bolts but hey it's not a load bearing filter.



I did use the socks before and they worked fine.

Bteets9914

iTrader: (6)

Are there any negatives to running a shorter oil fill neck? Only one I would think of is more of a chance for lung butter

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

I'll let you know later next week on that, I'm cutting my oil filler neck to 3" total height w/ cap from the base of the center iron to clear my 4" stacks and UNI pod filters.

I notice a fair amount of lung butter aka condensation on the top of my cap mostly because I think it is in the car setup, vented hood pretty high up there is going to be a change in temperature which will cause it, I think lowering it will help get rid of it.

Also this car has no PCV system and runs a vented oil catch can (and its an FC)

anyways!
anyone got a clue what this is?


I am switching from my previous filter methods to accommodate larger stacks and new filter setup. I know they have a port for this on enclosed filters but is this the float level "window" or float filter? should I just leave it open or fashion its own mini screen? I run in a very dusty/dirty environment. I've previously left it open on my last filter set up and have had no issues with my carb, just curious now I guess.

ALSO, those screen mesh screens suck, look what I did to one in a matter of several months:

j_tso

iTrader: (2)

That's the air vent that keeps atmospheric pressure on the jets. It can be left uncovered, since air just wafts in there rather than getting sucked in by engine vacuum. If you take off the top cover, you'll see air has to go in that hole and up over a wall before it reaches the jets.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I think that hole is like a vent to the carb internals to equalize air pressure, theres
also a small one in the plastic cap over the jets. Since the standard filters all include
it in the filter base I'm assuming it needs to be protected from a lot of the dirt
rallying may involve. Maybe you can put cotton or felt button in there.

The screen mesh will hurt your flow into the carb and ultimately affect the power
your able to get. Will you notice it? Not sure. Also the coarse mesh will let fine
particulates in which may end up affecting your carb adversely.

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the info guys. I have some extra filter material I can just glue onto to cover that port for the hell of it.

I did not notice a drop in power but I could rub on the inside of the air horns and did notice a bit more dust than usual but carb functions great, works great and runs well, no complaints, other than a 50phh is super rare, wolf creek racing is a pain in the *** to deal with and they are the only ones who have them, this carb is a bit too small for my engine but it makes great tq numbers and peaks low/great mid range power which is ideal for my application. (128whtq @ 97psi comp #s)

This is my current setup (next race is sunday) obviously you can tell the new parts and how dirty the environment is, possibly some minor leaks too but I rebuilt the carb about 2 years ago.

I will be running individual filter wraps for each of the foam filters shown:


shameless plug for http://www.piercemanifolds.com/

great site

Starfox07

Seems like the number of side-draft convertees is growing. Good to see. I'm also thinking about designing an airbox for my new dellorto setup. I think I'm going to do a rough 3D drawing with the necessary hardpoints and see what kind of shape I can come up with. If you are working with FG or CF, why not just go around the filler neck?