I have some serious idle problems on my rex, its a 1980 RX-7.

Before the ratsnest removal the car could only idle if the car had been running for 3-4min, or if i used the choke.

Now after the removal of the ratsnest and airpump, my car cannot idle at all, the idle screw on the carb doesnt do a thing for my idle.
I have searched for vacuum leaks by spraying some WD40 on most spots hoping the revs will change, but nothing happens.

I have blocked the ACV and heat exchanger with block off plates (without sealent)

And a second thing that is pretty weird, when i use my choke now, the revs go pretty high! before the removal it laid stable at 2k rpm.

So my final question is, what is the basic things to have for my rex to idle ?
I have searched the forum for answers, without any luck.

In serious hope for serious answers to help me in this serious crisis

 

First of all, get some sealant on those blockoff plates. Even if that is not the cause of all of your problems, it certainly isn't helping you any. After that, the true cause will be easier to track down.

You might want to take several pictures of your vacuum lines and carb to post on here. Someone might be able to spot something that was missed or done incorrectly...

 

something is leaking a bunch of air!

 

ok, now i used sealent and it didnt help.

Here are som pictures of my vacuum lines and block off plates.


ACV blockoff plate


Heat exchanger blockoff plate


Vacuum lines, all are blocked except the one that goes to Trailing and leading on the dizzy.


Some lines that are left after rats nest removal


Hope i can fix the problem before next week, so i can go to a local car meet

 

and one last thing.
I also changed the following things before the idle problem

New ngk plugs (BR8EQ), new magnecore 10mm plug wires.

 

hmm, i have an idle problem too, i wonder if it's the big *** wires? hahaha. go back to stock wires and see if it clears up. couldnt hurt.

 

i doubt that it is the big *** wires, but it`s worth a try.

What do you need to idle a 12A ? the basic elements ?

 

bump

 

That ring terminal looks like a ground wire to me (though i'm not positive it is, so you will need to pull out a wiring diagram), maybe something is not being grounded...

Alvin

 

If turning the idle mixture screw has no effect on the idle, you're most likely looking for a vacuum leak.

 

is it clockwize to increase idle ?


Took out the plugs recently, noticed that the front rotor plugs was black, the other rotor plugs looked like new.

So i took a ghetto compression test, i think i heared 2 loud puffs and a weaker puff on the front rotor but i aint sure.

Gonna buy an el`cheapo compression tester tomorrow and see if i got any loss regarding compression.

If it`s 2loud puffs it cannot be a broken apex seal? then it would have 1strong puff ? correct me if im wrong.

Hope i dont need any rebuilding

 

One weak puff would likely mean a stuck side seal. They usually don't break or wear fast because there is not much force on them. You may be able to free it up (assuming it is stuck) by doing a MMO treatment or similar.

One strong puffs with two weak ones typically would mean a problem with one of the apex seals.

Turning the idle screw clockwise should decrease idle. Make sure you are not adjusting the wrong one (there is a mixture screw and a idle speed screw).

 

i believe that turning the idle screw clockwise actually increases the idle.

 

Well, you may be right. It has been a long time since I had my SA. I figure though it is an air bleed, so closing it (clockwise) should close off the air bleed and reduce the idle. That is also how it is on the -SE TB.

 

yea, the actual idle screw just pulls on the throttle cable. the air mixture screw will not really raise or lower the idle, but more or less smooth it out.

 

70PSI on all chambers
DAMN !!!

So it`s probably that wich has caused my idle problems ?

 

I am going for the ATF treatment in hope to restore my engine.
Yesterday i bought ATF but i saw later that it`s synthetic, do i have to use mineral ATF ?

 

Probably a better idea to use MMO or SeaFoam if you can find it. ATF has some potentially harmful side effects from what I understand...

 

MMO/seafoam are not sold in norway

planning on using this tutor http://www.mazspeed.com/atf.htm

 

Well, I used ATF to get my car unflooded last year and it seemed to have no ill side effects. But afterwards, I was reading a lot of posts where people were saying to never use ATF on your motor (hard on seals or something). My guess is that you'll be ok either way. Good luck with it, I hope you get her fixed...

 

So the synthetic ATF is just fine ??
did you do it the carb or the spark hole way ?

 

I can't say as far as the synthetic goes. It would probably be safer to find the regular stuff.

I just used a turkey baster to shoot some into the plug holes, turned the motor a little and repeated a couple of times. I'm sure I used way too much, but better than too little right?

 

The choke linkage raises your idle. It's called the "fast idle" linkage, and it just bumbps open the throttle when you yank the choke.
You have a vacuum leak.
I don't care what anyone says, bolts and screws do NOT seal hoses! (Unless they are slathered with sealant!)

Plug those lines properly, and I'll bet your idle problem disappears.

 

The duck tape is not the best for sealing line off either.

 

Ok, sealed off my lines properly today, with sealent.
It`s still as before, no idle what so ever.

And i tried spraying lots off WD40 in the vacuum areas without any slight diffrence in rpm.
I got a thing called an idle compensator on my 1980, that used to connect on my old stock air box could this be the problem causer ?


This plug here used to connect on top off my old air box for idle compensation purposes, am i correct ?



My big concern is, is it my low compression that doesnt allow me to idle ?
As said before, when taking out the choke it rises to 4000rpm, before the rats nest removal it went to 2000rpm.

Hoping for answers, i am close to giving up my rex